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Why Lesser has some hegemony on Savile row ?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lasbar, Mar 16, 2010.

  1. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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  2. holymadness

    holymadness Senior member

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    Gandhi thought it a shame the pith helmet couldn't be adopted as national dress because of its imperialist connotations as it was such an ingenious invention. I wonder if something like that happened with tailored clothing.

    Either way, I can imagine a lot of tropical wool, linen and cotton were involved, whatever the answer.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Lessers are fairly unique in never discounting remainders. Their view is that they have the space to store the cloth so they don't need to dump it and if someone wants it they will pay the price. It means they have quite a lot of old cloth.

    This is not quite true. They sometimes do discount old stock. I don't know what % of the time they do, and maybe it is much less than 50%, but it's not unheard of.
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How do you know this?

    Did you hear this from Lesser, or from a tailor, who as MFF points out, has a vested interest in making you think that he is making a loss on a product he is selling to you?


    I know because when I have ordered Lesser, they have not said "That will be 100 GBP extra."

    I never said any tailor actually loses money selling Lesser; I said that they lose a little of their profit margin (and usually not very much). And nobody actually say "This costs more but we won't charge you more, so aren't you lucky." I just happen to know the wholesale prices of a lot of cloth, thus I know that in many categories, for the same basic type of goods, Lesser costs more than a competitor. It's not 2x more, typically more like 10-25% or even 50% or so more.
     
  5. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Thank you for your clarification.
    I said that they lose a little of their profit margin (and usually not very much).
    I did mean that, apologies for the brain glitch.
     
  6. Gent

    Gent Well-Known Member

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    I know because when I have ordered Lesser, they have not said "That will be 100 GBP extra."

    I never said any tailor actually loses money selling Lesser; I said that they lose a little of their profit margin (and usually not very much). And nobody actually say "This costs more but we won't charge you more, so aren't you lucky." I just happen to know the wholesale prices of a lot of cloth, thus I know that in many categories, for the same basic type of goods, Lesser costs more than a competitor. It's not 2x more, typically more like 10-25% or even 50% or so more.


    I may have missed something, but why would tailors do this? It seems to make no sense. If it's the best cloth and comes with a premium, why would they eat that premium?
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I may have missed something, but why would tailors do this? It seems to make no sense. If it's the best cloth and comes with a premium, why would they eat that premium?

    First of all, they don't all do it. But Poole and A&S do. Second, they won't do it for every cloth. If you order Golden Bale or from one of the two Lesser's Super books, you will be upcharged. Those cost substantially more.

    I guess they don't think that a 5 or 10 GBP differential is worth an upcharge. Plus--getting back to the premise of this thread--they love Lesser and like to work with it. So why discourage customers from ordering it?
     
  8. passingtime

    passingtime Senior member

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    This is not quite true. They sometimes do discount old stock. I don't know what % of the time they do, and maybe it is much less than 50%, but it's not unheard of.
    They will very occasionally discount a length as a favour to a tailor personally (as opposed to a firm like A&S) but that is across the range rather than any particular line. I checked this with a friend who used to be one of their UK salesmen until recently.

    I don't know what the position with Jodek, their US distributor, is as they apply a sizeable mark-up of their own so they have scope to discount without involving Lessers.
     
  9. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    No, their website is terrible. They are such a backward company that there is really no hope they will ever have a decent online presense. The only hope is that someone will do what AndrewRogers did for Harrison, but don't count on it because Lesser is pretty strict about selling only to tailors.

    Thanks Manton; that's what I was worried about. If they would only realize how AndrewRogers could help their business model...
     
  10. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    hedgemoney ?

    Dvid Lesser is still refusing to sell directly to uk based customers even if he told me his margins would be a lot better if he decided to do so...
     
  11. passingtime

    passingtime Senior member

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    Dvid Lesser is still refusing to sell directly to uk based customers even if he told me his margins would be a lot better if he decided to do so...
    There is little incentive for him to sell direct. If you want Lessers you will buy it anyway albeit through the tailor. What is his upside? The vast majority of his business is with tailors making for people who have absolutely no interest in sourcing cloth themselves, and these tailors like the exclusivity - why destroy that USP?
     
  12. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    Dvid Lesser is still refusing to sell directly to uk based customers even if he told me his margins would be a lot better if he decided to do so...

    There is little incentive for him to sell direct. If you want Lessers you will buy it anyway albeit through the tailor. What is his upside? The vast majority of his business is with tailors making for people who have absolutely no interest in sourcing cloth themselves, and these tailors like the exclusivity - why destroy that USP?

    I was wondering the same thing. If a UK customer wants it he can just ask his tailor to get it for him.

    Does anyone want a proxy for Lesser since he agreed to sell it to me direct for I live in India [​IMG] . I could do it for free but paypal fees and both sides shipping will make it very expensive ...
     
  13. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    I was wondering the same thing. If a UK customer wants it he can just ask his tailor to get it for him.

    Does anyone want a proxy for Lesser since he agreed to sell it to me direct for I live in India [​IMG] . I could do it for free but paypal fees and both sides shipping will make it very expensive ...


    A tailor would get it at a business rate and will be relunctant selling it back to you as he got a gentleman's agreement with Lesser...

    It is a small world and people tend to talk to each other..

    It is a catch 22 situation.....The tailors influenced the customers and order regularly vast amounts of fabrics making them essential for the merchants even if the margins are much lower than selling directly to me for example..

    On the other hand ,the tailor needs a good relationship with te merchant to get the best deal possible..
     
  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Why exactly do you want to purchase cloth directly rather than simply ask your tailor to use it? Are you going to cut a suit yourself?
     
  15. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    No tailor's markup? No middleman local distributor markup? Some tailors are unwilling to go to the effort of obtaining certain fabrics lest they offend their current suppliers?
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Also, sometimes I know I am going to want a certain cloth made up some day, but there is risk that it could run out. In such cases, I'd rather have a piece in my attic all ready to go.
     
  17. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    No tailor's markup? No middleman local distributor markup? Some tailors are unwilling to go to the effort of obtaining certain fabrics lest they offend their current suppliers?
    Those are fine generic reasons but don't seem to apply to lasbar's case - hence my question, which was not a generic one. His tailors do have access to Lesser and they even seem to promote using them.
    Also, sometimes I know I am going to want a certain cloth made up some day, but there is risk that it could run out. In such cases, I'd rather have a piece in my attic all ready to go.
    That makes sense.
     
  18. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Why exactly do you want to purchase cloth directly rather than simply ask your tailor to use it? Are you going to cut a suit yourself?

    They charged me an arm and a leg for it...

    I'm talking about the Golden bale ...They got it for a certain amount and did apply a massive surcharge on top of it...

    It is true that I wouldn't have been able to buy it at their trade prices but with the surcharge on top , it is becoming quite a bad deal.

    I also like Manton love to stock some fabrics to use later on especially the golden bale with no stock left..
     
  19. passingtime

    passingtime Senior member

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    They charged me an arm and a leg for it...

    I'm talking about the Golden bale ...They got it for a certain amount and did apply a massive surcharge on top of it...

    It is true that I wouldn't have been able to buy it at their trade prices but with the surcharge on top , it is becoming quite a bad deal.


    Would they be prepared to make up Lessers if you provided it? Some tailors don't care but others won't and those are more likely to complain to Lessers who will trace back the source if they can to stop it from happening again.
     

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