Why is a rolled edge on a PS "better"?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bubbleboys, Oct 2, 2012.

  1. bubbleboys

    bubbleboys Senior member

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    I keep reading about how PS with rolled edges are "better", but I don't see any particular reason why.

    My understanding is that apparently rolled edges are impossible to do by machine (aka it requires handwork), but is that pretty much the only reason why it's considered "better"?
    If anything, I would logically think that a non-rolled edge would create a cleaner profile which would be preferrable?

    Is the purpose of the rolled edge to give it some visual "flair" like a blue lining to a white PS?
     
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    hand rolled are sign of hand made, and likely to be made from linen or silk, rather than poly fabrics
     
  3. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    It looks much better, thats it. When I say much, I mean, machine finished squares look like shit.
     
  4. jawboneofa

    jawboneofa Senior member

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    If you're buying pocket squares online, then I suppose hand-rolled edges could serve as a stand-in for quality much in the way that functional boutonniere holes or surgeon's cuffs have been an indication of a well-constructed suit (though these touches are less and less useful as RTW manufacturers employ them to con style dilettantes).

    That said, pocket squares are pretty simple "garments", if you can even call them that--there's just the fabric and the edge. Generally speaking, you know what you're getting so long as you can feel the fabric. Additionally, a good machine-sewn edge is just as durable as a hand-sewn one in my experience. So hand-rolled/sewn edges aren't exactly a stand-in for quality.

    If not functional, then the prime advantage of a hand-rolled/sewn edge is aesthetic. The thing I like about them is that they terminate the fabric in a satisfyingly swelled edge.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012
  5. NoCleverName

    NoCleverName Senior member

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    A hand rolled edge will have an "organic" appearance, much the same way a hand-cut suit does. The imperfections are what make it.
     
  6. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Dont tell me you dont like a little hand roll in your pocket, eh? :smarmy:
     
  7. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

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    hand rolled and organic. Where is this thread going?:sly:
     
  8. bubbleboys

    bubbleboys Senior member

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    Cool, thanks for the replies, guys.
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Machines edges look really bad. Like you just have a napkin in your pocket. There are many different types of hand rolled edges though. Each maker will be slightly different. You may like some more than others.
     
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Hm, I'm going to go against the consensus here.

    There are different types of machine and hand finished hems. For machined, the two most common I've seen are the napkin type, which unbelragazzo above has mentioned, and then there's a sort that Gerald covered here. It's this picture:

    [​IMG]

    All of my Drake's and Rubinacci squares are finished in this way.

    Hand finished hems aren't as easily categorizable. I would only differ them in terms of quality. I have some that have been very nicely done, and some that look like they were made blindly. The worst handrolled hem I've seen was on a cream silk Brioni pocket square. The best was on Vanda (assuming you like neatness and tight rolls. You can prefer something else of course, no reason that you can't). Here's Vanda:

    [​IMG]

    As you can see, handrolled hems have nothing to do with swelled edges, "imperfections," or many of the other things people have stated above. I see no imperfections in Vanda's hem, and both techniques here have rolled edges. I don't know if handrolled is an indication of quality either. There have been members here who have made their own pocket squares by handrolling mediocre fabrics they source from a local store. I wouldn't say those are better than Rubinacci's silks.

    Napkin type hems are indeed terrible looking, but I would actually prefer a machined rolled hem over a poorly handmade one. It has a nice braiding effect when done on silk (not apparent in Gerald's photo), whereas a poorly made handrolled hem just looks uneven, loose, and sloppy.

    If I have time, I'll try to take photos of some of my pocket squares tomorrow to illustrate, but in general, I wouldn't say there's anything wrong with a machined hem. I love my Drake's and Rubinaccis. If done well, a handrolled hem is only "better" in that it adds some kind of artisanal value. It just means someone put the time into finishing the edge. That doesn't necessarily make it perform better or even look better, it's just a labor intensive thing you appreciate or you don't.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2012
  11. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    I am wearing that very same Vanda PS today. It is... awesome to behold.
     
  12. Ricini

    Ricini Active Member

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    A few more images:
    [​IMG][​IMG]



    The finishing on that vanda square is lovely, Derek.

    These are handrolled.
    From top:
    Cravat Royale
    A local maker
    Drake's
    Sam Hober (the best finishing of this set, imo)
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    To follow up on Derek's post - I was referring to the machined edges in the napkin style. The Rubi edges look good to me - my favorite PSs are Rubis.
     
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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