Why don't higher end shoes like EG, C&J use full footbed insoles /sockliners?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by theyare, Jun 21, 2011.

  1. theyare

    theyare Senior member

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    Is there a reason that some of the brands don't use full insoles (sockliners?) for the footbed?
    Annoying when they start to "peel" up when I take the shoes off.
    EG, C&J, not sure about Lobb?
     
  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Is there a reason that some of the brands don't use full insoles for the footbed? Annoying when they start to "peel" up when I take the shoes off. EG, C&J, not sure about Lobb?
    If I am reading you aright, those aren't insoles...they're sockliners (or "socks"). why don't they use full length socks? Because it costs more money in terms of materials and time required to cut and fit a full length sock. For not much gain by way of comfort, quality or longevity.
     
  3. Leather man

    Leather man Senior member

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    Is there a reason that some of the brands don't use full insoles for the footbed?
    Annoying when they start to "peel" up when I take the shoes off.
    EG, C&J, not sure about Lobb?


    C&J Handgrade do use full length socks. Edward Green will use them if you ask them to on a Made to Order and will retro fit them on a Ready to Wear. I agree with you it is annoying when they peel. Oddly enough, considering the bad rap Church's get here, I have never had a Church's sock peel.
     
  4. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    I know waht you mean...I hate it when that half part starts to peel up. Right know im wearing a pair of RTW Lobbs...they have the full piece. [​IMG]
     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have never had the sock lining peel up...
     
  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Vass also uses a full sock lining.
     
  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is there a reason that some of the brands don't use full insoles (sockliners?) for the footbed?

    Traditional English shoemakers, be they bespoke or ready to wear use either a short (just the heel) or half-long ‘sock’
    (insole liner), but not a full sole one.

    Here is a selection from the top bespoke London firms:

    George Cleverley
    [​IMG]

    Peal & Co
    [​IMG]

    John Lobb
    [​IMG]

    Nicolaus Tuczek
    [​IMG]

    Surely, if the shoemaker uses a top-class oak tanned insole, why would you want to cover it up with a layer of inferior leather
    (and a layer of glue as an additional barrier) to prevent the insole from wicking away the foot’s moisture at it’s most efficient?

    A ‘sock’ is only a necessity under the heel, as there is a row of nails which need to be covered.
     
  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oddly enough, considering the bad rap Church's get here, I have never had a Church's sock peel.

    Church's only uses a short (heel only) sock. - Most other ready-to-wear manufacturers use a sock of half length.
     
  9. Nick V.

    Nick V. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Church's only uses a short (heel only) sock. - Most other ready-to-wear manufacturers use a sock of half length.

    Beg to differ. Church uses a heel seat (the shorter one) and a 3/4. The 3/4 ends under the arch of your foot.
     
  10. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    George Cleverley
    [​IMG]


    I very much enjoy that Russian Calf sock liner!!
     
  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Traditional English shoemakers, be they bespoke or ready to wear use either a short (just the heel) or half-long ‘sock’ (insole liner), but not a full sole one. Surely, if the shoemaker uses a top-class oak tanned insole, why would you want to cover it up with a layer of inferior leather (and a layer of glue as an additional barrier) to prevent the insole from wicking away the foot’s moisture at it’s most efficient? A ‘sock’ is only a necessity under the heel, as there is a row of nails which need to be covered.
    Yes!! As a matter of fact I was taught to never use a sock or a heel pad. But then I was taught to never use nails in the final construction of a boot or shoe. Always pegs. The reason being that nails, esp iron nails (and it's rare to see any other kind), rust. And in the sense of oxidation rust is really just a "slow fire." Now one may not care for the analogy but I have seen insoles that were literally black and highly carbonized in immediate proximity to nails. So carbonized that any disturbance in the nail or the insole cause immediate brittle fragmentation. I've seen whole heel seats and even whole heel stacks burnt in this way. Heel pads are not only a physical barrier to salt water (sweat) coming into contact with the iron, the neoprene cement commonly used to affix the heel pad forms a waterproof barrier to any moisture transfer. To this day I will use a wooden peg or sewing in preference to leaving a nail in the shoe. And sometimes I will leave the heel pad or sock out...completely.
     
  12. atia2

    atia2 Senior member

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    Is it easy to remove a half sock? I want to do this before glueing in a full sock, so that I don't remove too much room from the heel.
     

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