Why does SF hate working cuffs on RTW?

[gladhands]

I understand that having working cuffs on RTW jackets makes severely limits the ability to shorten the sleeves, but I find hard it to believe that that is reason enough for the amount of vitriol directed towards that particular feature.

I just picked up a RTW sport coat with working cuffs, and I love it. I have a feeling that part of the hatred is linked to the fact that this particular feature traditionally signifies bespoke.

 

[Harold falcon]

The only reason to have working button holes on your coat in the first place is to signify that it's expensive. If you have it on RTW then it's kind of like the guy who puts a giant spoiler on the back of his Hyundai hoping that you'll think he needs it because it goes just as fast as the Porsche he couldn't afford to get.

 

[intent]

Originally Posted by harvey_birdman

The only reason to have working button holes on your coat in the first place is to signify that it's expensive.

 

[aj_del]

I like working buttonholes. Doesnt matter if it is RTW as long as the sleeve length is not an issue.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by harvey_birdman

The only reason to have working button holes on your coat in the first place is to signify that it's expensive. If you have it on RTW then it's kind of like the guy who puts a giant spoiler on the back of his Hyundai hoping that you'll think he needs it because it goes just as fast as the Porsche he couldn't afford to get.

What's the difference between putting it on RTW vs having it on bespoke?

 

[aj_del]

RTW is as expensive as bespoke

 

[DerekS]

i think the biggest reason is that it makes it impossible to alter the sleeve length.

 

[MalfordOfLondon]

Originally Posted by DerekS

i think the biggest reason is that it makes it impossible to alter the sleeve length.

The *only* reason I'd say. I like them by the way.

 

[Nicola]

The only time it bothers me is on items it doesn't make a great deal of sense. Overcoats for example. But then I grew up with a snowballs in my pockets so my standards for coats are different.

 

[Troilus]

Isn't at least some of the vitriol aimed at paying extra for working cuffs on RTW rather than the notion of working cuffs on RTW?

I dropped off two suits for alterations this Sunday and would have clearly chosen working over non-working cuffs had the two options been identical in price. Instead, I chose the non-working because it was $30/suit cheaper. (I was so proud of myself for this cost-saving move that I treated myself to five new shirts).

If I had bought an Isaia suit, no way that baby wouldn't sport surgeon's cuffs. I might even have tailor throw in a red button on each sleeve, because flossin' is what it's about.

 

[Fantastic Mr Foxx]

- I don't hate working/surgeon's cuffs on RTW & I'm a member of SF.

 

[Gradstudent78]

Originally Posted by DerekS

i think the biggest reason is that it makes it impossible to alter the sleeve length.

+1, too much hassel, getting a good fit, including sleeve length is king above all else. It's been a deal breaker on many RTW for me.

I actually like the idea of working button cuffs but would prefer RTW to have unfinished cuffs that would allow you to easily add working button cuffs after the fact if you desire them, just makes more sense to me.

 

[Cant kill da Rooster]

Like the poster above, I would find it pretentious on a cheap suit. I am not saying this to get into semantics about what signifies a cheap jacket, but if you bought it at H&M I think that certainly qualifies. If it's a fully canvassed, very well made RTW suit though, I have nothing against it.

 

[RJE]

..

 

[ljrcustom]

Originally Posted by harvey_birdman

The only reason to have working button holes on your coat in the first place is to signify that it's expensive. If you have it on RTW then it's kind of like the guy who puts a giant spoiler on the back of his Hyundai hoping that you'll think he needs it because it goes just as fast as the Porsche he couldn't afford to get.

That analogy doesn't really work, because both Kiton and Brioni sell RTW suits for significantly more than a lot of bespoke suits cost. I would not classify a $6,000 dollar RTW suit as cheap by any means.

-LR