Why do I get these horizontal lines in the back of any shirt with darts?

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by teknique22, Apr 5, 2016.

  1. teknique22

    teknique22 Senior member

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    I cannot figure it out..also, can someone please critique my fit? I personally have a wide range of freedom of movement and think it's pretty comfortable and form fitting..one of the cleanest looking shirts I own:

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    Have to keep adjusting the shirt and pulling it down to get this:

    [​IMG]
     




  2. rbhan12

    rbhan12 Senior member

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    Definitely not...not sure why he would start a thread asking for critique and why his shirt lays the way it does.
     


  3. alford78

    alford78 Well-Known Member

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    I do. I have a shirt that does the same thing made by the same company as a few of my other shirts but is trim fit and it does this even though the sleeve, neck, and shoulders seem to fit perfect.

    I've almost thrown it away for more closet space twice but it's there as a reminder not to order another of the same fit for now.
     


  4. Wayward

    Wayward Senior member

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    OP made a thread on the same issue before this one. Shirtmaven, who is an esteemed and highly-regarded shirtmaker, provided an answer previously, yet more threads are being made by OP asking the same thing, but worded differently.
     


  5. alford78

    alford78 Well-Known Member

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    I searched his other threads and nobody has given him answers that will "correct" the problem so I cannot blame him for continuing to try to get his next shirt ordered properly. Not trying to be disrespectful but remarks about his shirt and helpful advice on changing measurements are two very different things.

    I too have one shirt that does the baggy/loose bit of fabric bunch horizontally in the back but without the no ironing look and it's properly tucked and fitted around my waist.

    I'm extremely new to custom shirts but my limited thought is the material isn't constructed correctly on the back portion of the shirt where it narrows towards to the bottom. If it were smaller/narrowed more there wouldn't be a way for it to rise and do the bunching. Just my guess of common sense only.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016


  6. teknique22

    teknique22 Senior member

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    I'm not sure what's wrong with it? Can you provide pictures of a shirt that's "made right" ?
     


  7. alford78

    alford78 Well-Known Member

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    I do recall a pic shown to you in another thread that had true T arm holes but wasn't explained the proper ways of communicating that with a maker/tailor.


    I'm guessing that would be asking too much. Not sure why this topic has been met with such anguish and negativity. This is supposed to be a forum of help not arrogance and ill half witted comments. I really have been enjoying the knowledge gained until this thread. Seems like a rather standup up issue and not out of line to question its faults until get an answer way can avoid similar results in the future.

    Sorry to rock the boat but it's childish for the most part.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016


  8. teknique22

    teknique22 Senior member

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    I'm just not sure why someone would take the time to comment there are issues with the shirt without even telling me what they are...
     


  9. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    I guess that you didn't see this then
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/518050/how-do-i-obtain-this-fit#post_8326604
    Too tight and too much taper. Basically the same question all over again. OP keeps insisting that there is enough room in the shirt and ignores the clear evidence in the photos that there is not. Hence the reluctance to keep responding when the OP appears unwilling to acknowledge the problem.
     


  10. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    okay I'll try to be more specific.

    The problem as Shirtmaven has already said is too much taper.

    It might feel as if you have enough room if you are standing still with your arms at your sides. However when you raise your arms the shirt body will rise up as well--there is no way to completely eliminate this, regardless of armhole size or how the sleeves are attached to the body. If the shirt is too closely contoured to the body and there is too much taper, the waist of the shirt will rise up to the chest and the cloth will get 'stuck' there because there is insufficient ease. When the arms come back down the shirt body will not come back down and then you get those horizontal lines.

    Please please please do not start more threads with "how do I fix this" until you address this issue.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016


  11. teknique22

    teknique22 Senior member

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    Just confusing because they are three different shirts I've posted all with different measurements. Blank label one is 17in with darts (so even less), Proper cloth one is 17.50 with no darts, and I get the weird draping in my midsection, and this one is 17.50 with darts (so around 17). All have different issues and was trying to find a good middle ground but I guess that'd be a 17.50 no darts, or 18in darts with perhaps a much lower hip measurement to prevent longer and wider untucking to happen at my waist
     


  12. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    I don't see any reason to be confused. Look at the pictures. You need more room around the waist. A good bit more. Personally I'd add at least an inch (2 inches in circumference) to the waist and 0.5 to the chest but that's just my opinion.
    Do not decrease the hip. That is not the problem.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016


  13. teknique22

    teknique22 Senior member

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    Do you mean midsection is where I need to add fabric?
     


  14. alford78

    alford78 Well-Known Member

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    That's referring to the wings though. He's asking about the line of bunches fabric horizontally in the back in the post.

    If it the same reason then by all means just say it's the same reason.

    Ok. Others have chimed in and addressed both issues now and it seems like I understand for my issue. I still don't think the OP does though so maybe someone should pm him and help him go through the issues. It's a place to help one another, no?
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016


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