Why Bespoke Shirts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Alexander Kabbaz, Feb 18, 2005.

  1. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Paying this amount for a cotton shirt is a nonsens. This is simply snobism. I guess you can make a very good bespoke shirt for 3 time less (T&A, H&K, Charvet)
     


  2. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    Alex - write it, just don't post it. No sense cluttering your thread with an ernest fight. Take 3 beers and call me in the morning.
     


  3. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    Are you talking to me?
     


  4. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    Ernest - I was addressing Alex, I know Alex, to use a subtle reference to a famous quote which will pass benignly over your head... You, Sir, are no Alex.
     


  5. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    Ernest, are you familiar with the movie Taxi Driver? Manton, I believe that the Italian collar AK referred to is a collar without a collar band. Anyone who believes (or knows) otherwise, feel free to disagree with (or correct) me.
     


  6. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    My true name is Ernest-Travis
     


  7. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    3 Beers? Do you mean Alex is alcoholic?
     


  8. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    Answers to Todays Questions: 1] Proper fit of a French Cuff 2] What is an "Italian Collar" I cannot locate any close-up photo strictly showing how a French cuff should fit. The three photos here all show properly fitting cuffs. Also, to the doubting Mantons & JCuseys of the world, please note that in every case the arms shown are either bent - in some cases as much as 90º and in one case about 150º. Yet the cuffs remain properly showing. In the instances of all six arms, I can attest to the fact that every cuff hangs to the proper distance above the fingers when the arms are straight. There is absolutely no additional fabric present which would permit the sleeve to hang down to the palm if the cuff were unlinked. Sorry about the tacky photos - they are all I have relating to this subject. [​IMG] This is a really bad photo of a traditionally termed "Italian Collar". I shall try to shoot a better one on a mannequin when I finish the one I shall be making tomorrow in Royal Blue Irish Summer Linen. [​IMG]
     


  9. Tokyo Slim

    Tokyo Slim In Time Out

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    Alex - I just thought that I'd let you know, I'm totally straight and all that, but I can't stop staring at your mustache. Sorry. [​IMG] note - I resisted writing an "Ode To The Mustache" just now. You have all been spared. The damn thing is mesmerizing. I think it's trying to say something to me.... help.
     


  10. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    The thrust of this Series of threads is to explain some of the reasons why bespoke has advantages over R-T-W. To the best of my knowledge, bespoke or M-T-M shirts are available in a price range which begins just below $100 per shirt and ranges up close to $1000.

    The price point you prefer does not change these advantages. At the lower price points, the quantitative variances may be limited along with the qualititive selection. Neither of these obvious facts alters in any way the premise upon which this thread is based. Thus, it is applicable to all budgets.
     


  11. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    Tokyo - I am personally more mesmerized by the fact that in these photos my hair was still black. [​IMG] EDIT: Just noticed this at the bottom of your post:
    No wonder you find the mustache interesting. [​IMG]
     


  12. Tokyo Slim

    Tokyo Slim In Time Out

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    Truely I envy the hirstute facial accoutrement. I, due to a tragic childhood firecracker accident, am unable to grow one. Or maybe its just the Asian thing. Disarray indeed.

    Now, back to your regularly scheduled thread:
     


  13. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    You can stick a fake moustache.
     


  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting. And, looking at the photo, you appear to be right. So the leaf is one large piece that folds over? It's not quite that there's no band, in other words, only that the band is part of the leaf.

    I can see why that's harder to make. But what practical or stylistic advantage does it confer?
     


  15. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    You are supposed to be so overwhelmed by sheer beauty that the typical mantonisms (logical technical musings) are forgotten. As your fortitude obviously exceeds my photographic abilities - it certainly couldn't be the shirt - here goes:

    The entire collar assembly is a cohesive whole beginning at either front shirt hem, continuing 'round the neck, and thence to the other shirt hem. Once assembled, it cannot be disassembled for corrections or authors alterations. Hence the bucket o' additional bucks.

    Its advantage and beauty lies in the pleasing and consistent curve of the 'roll'. The manner of construction causes this roll to be soft and gradual. Additionally, the strength of construction prevents the shirt from the primary failing of most "sport" shirts, unwanted opening/closing and 'gapping' below the neck. If 'twere meant for the distaff, one could opine that even while bending over forward nothing would be showing that was not supposed to. Naturally, the degree of desired "not supposed to" is adjustable through judicious selection of the placement of the first button.
     


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