Why are there so many threads about RLBL Suits

[MORNINGSTAR777]

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

I think the majority of the failures in BL came from the size up theory, which no doubt made the shoulders quite a bit too big on the wearer.

That was always the piece of advice concerning RLBL the puzzled me. Why would one ever size up on a suit? I think in the realm of fashion men's suiting is one of the only places you can expect that the tag size will hold true. It's like sizing up is an attempt to achieve a level looseness of look and feel which goes against the image of the brand. Why buy a Black Label suit when you're looking for something that's going to feel like a sack suit?

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by MORNINGSTAR777

That was always the piece of advice concerning RLBL the puzzled me. Why would one ever size up on a suit? I think in the realm of fashion men's suiting is one of the only places you can expect that the tag size will hold true. It's like sizing up is an attempt to achieve a level looseness of look and feel which goes against the image of the brand. Why buy a Black Label suit when you're looking for something that's going to feel like a sack suit?

Because a lot of guys would find BL too tight in the chest and unbuttonable in their normal size?

 

[instep]

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

I think the majority of the failures in BL came from the size up theory, which no doubt made the shoulders quite a bit too big on the wearer.
Bingo! I've never understood that - IMO the fit/measurements around the shoulder/upper chest (i.e collarbone area) of ANY coat is the most important thing. I mean, a quick browse in the B&S shows that a HF and a RLBL - 2 cuts that could not be more different - differ only by 0.5" in the shoulder. To varying extents waists can be suppressed, quarters can be opened and lengths can be shortened, but once you get the shoulder/upper chest wrong, you're talking major surgery.

Originally Posted by Macallan9

A 38 chest cant wear RLBL? Clearly, your understanding of how suits work is flawed beyond belief.

Well you stick to your uber trad suits since you despite anything modern. RLBL is not for you. I don't understand why you insist on whining about everyone else's fit. If you don't like fashion forward anything, maybe AAAC would be more your speed.
LOL, he chickened out and edited out the most blatant bits of stupidity after your post. His "I would not buy it even if it fit me like bespoke" comment (since edited out) was pure triple-distilled stupidity and maybe gives us a glimpse into the inner workings of his mind (or lack thereof).

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Because a lot of guys would find BL too tight in the chest and unbuttonable in their normal size?
No? RLBL measures 2.5-3" up in the chest from the tagged chest size. So unless you're a 44R buying a 40R..?

 

[instep]

...

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by instep

No? RLBL measures 2.5-3" up in the chest from the tagged chest size. So unless you're a 44R buying a 40R..?

Maybe it's different now, but there's no way the ones I've sold had a 3-inch allowance. Two, maybe, but I can't recall right off.

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Maybe it's different now, but there's no way the ones I've sold had a 3-inch allowance. Two, maybe, but I can't recall right off.

My RLBL jackets fit very normal in the chest (perhaps because I'm so used to Isaia and other Italian brands?) - maybe slightly more generous than my Signature in same size because of slightly lower armholes. Where the RLBL is tight is the pants - mine came with 7 drop pants rather than 6 and that, I can feel. Easy alteration though.

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by gdl203

MY RLBL jackets fit fine - maybe slightly more generous than my Signature in same size because of slightly lower armholes. Where the RLBL is tight is the pants - mine came with 7 drop pants rather than 6 and that, I can feel. Easy alteration though.

I think a lot of guys end up sizing up because they're secretly on the large end of their size but don't normally need to because of the more generous allowance traditionally afforded. I'm a 38 in Corneliani, for instance, but my chest is really slightly more than 38 inches -- bordering on 39 these days. A two-inch allowance isn't going to accomodate that without looking vulgar. If you're a small 38, on the other hand, the regular size might work for you.

The deal killer on the BL trou for me is the thighs -- too slim for comfort.

 

[instep]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Maybe it's different now, but there's no way the ones I've sold had a 3-inch allowance. Two, maybe, but I can't recall right off.
No worries, I figured that there might be some variation in cut between individual models. The 2.5-3" figure came from 3 RLBL suits that I have/had, and from a discussion I had recently with HoldFast, who was certain of the 2.5-3" figure.

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

I think a lot of guys end up sizing up because they're secretly on the large end of their size but don't normally need to because of the more generous allowance traditionally afforded. I'm a 38 in Corneliani, for instance, but my chest is really slightly more than 38 inches -- bordering on 39 these days. A two-inch allowance isn't going to accomodate that without looking vulgar. If you're a small 38, on the other hand, the regular size might work for you. The deal killer on the BL trou for me is the thighs -- too slim for comfort.
I think another reason is that they are so used to loosely/ill fitting suits (after all RLBL is the first 'nice' suit for so many SF members right?), that the sudden (apparent) snugness of a RLBL is an 'OMG I DON'T WANT TO LOOK ****' moment for them. EDIT: removed a categorical statement

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

I think a lot of guys end up sizing up because they're secretly on the large end of their size but don't normally need to because of the more generous allowance traditionally afforded. I'm a 38 in Corneliani, for instance, but my chest is really slightly more than 38 inches -- bordering on 39 these days. A two-inch allowance isn't going to accomodate that without looking vulgar. If you're a small 38, on the other hand, the regular size might work for you.

The deal killer on the BL trou for me is the thighs -- too slim for comfort.

Vugar!!?? Everyone knows suits one size too small are the height of sophistication.

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

Vugar!!?? Everyone knows suits one size too small are the height of sophistication.

^This is where you were supposed to post one of my pics of Steed in his form-fitting suits.

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

^This is where you were supposed to post one of my pics of Steed in his form-fitting suits.

You should see the suits this guy wears in "The girl cut in two" stripped and ultra-tight. Really gaudy and totally fitting for the character. I like your Steed suit a lot, you should contribute to the severe silhouette thread I just started.

 

[clee1982]

Originally Posted by MORNINGSTAR777

I like my Black Label Suit, but I love my Blue Label suit. I work in the fashion design industry so I can basically wear anything without anyone blinking an eye, but I find that I feel so much more confident/comfortable in my Blue Label suit. I bought a Black Label suit for few reasons. For one, I loved Dior Homme under Hedi Slimane and Black Label was in the same vein. Two, the quality/construction appeal to me. Lastly, the Styleforum hype sealed the deal. I think that I have the discussed "ideal" body type needed for the suit (6' ft, slim slightly athletic build, 40R, 33waist, etc.), but that still means nothing when it comes to my preference for the suit. I'm actually ready to move away from RTW and try my hand at custom (Mr. Ned).

However, I don't feel like the suit is as fashion as people paint it on here. I mean, it's not like a color block short sleeve Jil Sander suit (Sorry SoCal). When the average man who wears a suit is wearing an ill fitting over sized piece of garbage it's hard to imagine the Black Label suit look feeling dated to anyone but those who are a slave to fashion. I also don't see why Black Label is lumped in with the Mad Men look as no one on the show wears anything remotely as slim as Black Label. If anything Blue Label has more in common with the look of Mad Men.

Just a word of caution, most MTM at same price level (i.e. under 2K) can't compare to RLBL in terms of construction and quality..., at least in NYC anyway. I have never worked with Mr. Ned before, but don't think they are build to the same standard as Caruso.

 

[clee1982]

Originally Posted by instep

Bingo!

I've never understood that - IMO the fit/measurements around the shoulder/upper chest (i.e collarbone area) of ANY coat is the most important thing. I mean, a quick browse in the B&S shows that a HF and a RLBL - 2 cuts that could not be more different - differ only by 0.5" in the shoulder.

To varying extents waists can be suppressed, quarters can be opened and lengths can be shortened, but once you get the shoulder/upper chest wrong, you're talking major surgery.

LOL, he chickened out and edited out the most blatant bits of stupidity after your post. His "I would not buy it even if it fit me like bespoke" comment (since edited out) was pure triple-distilled stupidity and maybe gives us a glimpse into the inner workings of his mind (or lack thereof).

No? RLBL measures 2.5-3" up in the chest from the tagged chest size. So unless you're a 44R buying a 40R..?

Might the size up have something to do with padding... RLBL is quite padded, don't know about HF here.

 

[clee1982]

Originally Posted by gdl203

My RLBL jackets fit very normal in the chest (perhaps because I'm so used to Isaia and other Italian brands?) - maybe slightly more generous than my Signature in same size because of slightly lower armholes. Where the RLBL is tight is the pants - mine came with 7 drop pants rather than 6 and that, I can feel. Easy alteration though.

Actually, that's the one thing about Isaia I never get, keep want to buy one, but never pull the trigger because while RLBL fits me off the rack nicely, Isaia is always too roomy in both chest and waist, am I look at the wrong line of Isaia or something...

 

[Blueset]

how big have the discounts been on gilt for the RLBL suits?