Why all the hate for wholecuts?

[Zapasman]

I love the look of a whole cut dress shoe as it adds simplicity to elegance. However, I have personally steered clear of them due to my shoe size. I am 6'3" wearing a size 13 shoe. I've felt the the lack of lines can make your foot appear longer which is something I do not need. Does anyone know of a similar alternative with such a simple look?

My first choice would be a plain cap toe oxford in black. Check the great thread here about them.

 

[jrparker428]

Thanks for the tip!

 

[DWFII]



I figured out those could be made by you  ( think you posted them before and can see your hands at the toe).  I just own a pair of non seamless wholecut in dark brown that I bought long ago.  At the time I did not know about the existance (and difficulty of execution) of seamless wholecuts. Currently, everytime I hold the shoes on my hands and find the back seam I feel  kind of dissapointed. As said before the shoes are beautiful but  to me any introduction of small  variances compromises the essence of this model. So yes, feelings and tastes may change even in oneself. Would not mine to wear those at all but I would rather enjoy to commission from you a  black plain seamless wholecut or a pair of amazing black Georges boots.!!

No need to be disappointed. As a maker I am fascinated by the challenges inherent in a seamless whole cut, but functionally the seamless is no better than the backseamed whole cut. There are drawbacks, IOW.

When the leather is blocked over the last, there is considerable surplus--it is a flat piece of leather being shaped to a highly three dimensional form. Those pipes and "surplus army goods" have to be dealt with one way or the other. And, generally speaking, no matter how good the maker, they cannot always be pulled out (stretched) esp. in high quality leather.

The only alternative is to compress the surplus leather into smaller and smaller pipes and wrinkles until they are nearly unseen. Nearly...almost...but never entirely. Because even if perfectly eliminated the surplus is still there...in the leather. Done correctly, this doesn't have to present a problem--that surplus is usually located primarily in the heel area, where it will be stabilized and bonded to the heel stiffener.

But potentially it could become a little "baggy." Just like the skin on old people's hands and faces--it can be chemically or even surgically tightened but the excess and looseness is still in there.

 

[Lionel Hutz]

I love the look of a whole cut dress shoe as it adds simplicity to elegance. However, I have personally steered clear of them due to my shoe size. I am 6'3" wearing a size 13 shoe. I've felt the the lack of lines can make your foot appear longer which is something I do not need. Does anyone know of a similar alternative with such a simple look?

My problem too and I haven't solved it. Maybe something like museum calf would work to reduce visual length but I dont want anything that flashy

That said if I see whiskey shell wholecuts I'm buying them

 

[benjamin831]

This is as close as I'll ever get to wholecuts. It evokes the elegance of 19th century era court shoes and looks far more formal than wholecuts. If you don't want to wear pumps with your evening wear, this will certainly cut it.

When I think of wholecuts, I think of Robin Hood shoes...

 

[MrUnderwood]

I never actually thought of it before, but i kind of dislike wholecuts. They look genuinely strange, and i have seen them in real life - not worn by me.

 

[BXpress]

This is as close as I'll ever get to wholecuts. It evokes the elegance of 19th century era court shoes and looks far more formal than wholecuts. If you don't want to wear pumps with your evening wear, this will certainly cut it.

View attachment 1130359

Friend, where does one find such glorious Balmorals?

 

[Jacob E.]

I like 'em, own several pairs. Not only the seamless ones, case in point - the Campanile below.

I guess the main knock against them is being "plain", but IMO, there's no such thing, if a shoe is made of quality leather, and put together beautifully. Now, on the other hand, I once ordered a pair of Bruno Magli wholecuts from Yoox, and had to send them back without trying on - the thing screamed "cheap crap". The fact that it's wholecut crap was kind of irrelevant.

 

[Professor Χάος]

This is as close as I'll ever get to wholecuts. It evokes the elegance of 19th century era court shoes and looks far more formal than wholecuts. If you don't want to wear pumps with your evening wear, this will certainly cut it.

View attachment 1130359
When I think of wholecuts, I think of Robin Hood shoes...

What brand are these? Yohei Fukuda perhaps? Personally, I love wholecuts. They're my favorite shoe style. Wholecuts are simple, elegant, sleek, and versatile. I don't think they are "less formal" than captoes. What is the criteria or standard we are using to determine degrees of formality? Wholecuts are appropriate for black tie events, weddings, a night out, and even casual wear. I own 5 wholecuts.

2 Norwegian welted Sutor Mentallassi wholecuts
1 Norwegian-welted Paolo Scafora wholecut (I intend to order more in the future)
1 Carmina Rain last wholecut
1 G&G Grant

 

[Harwid]

I think wholecuts are beautiful. But I don’t have any. Time to be on the lookout.

Jeff

 

[Professor Χάος]

I think wholecuts are beautiful. But I don’t have any. Time to be on the lookout.

Jeff

Gentlemen, I recently purchased a pair of Paolo Scafora, Norwegian-welted wholecuts from Cipriani. I present to you the unboxing process, with my compliments.

 

[Professor Χάος]

By way of comparsion, here are the Paolo Scafora, next to my recently acquired Santoni, fur-lined Norwegian-welted boots.

 

[shirtingfantasy]