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Why all the hate for wholecuts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Caustic Man, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

    Oct 2, 2014
    My first choice would be a plain cap toe oxford in black. Check the great thread here about them.
    1 person likes this.
  2. jrparker428

    jrparker428 Member

    Sep 12, 2016
    Thanks for the tip!
    1 person likes this.
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

    Jan 8, 2008
    The Highlands of Central Oregon

    No need to be disappointed. As a maker I am fascinated by the challenges inherent in a seamless whole cut, but functionally the seamless is no better than the backseamed whole cut. There are drawbacks, IOW.

    When the leather is blocked over the last, there is considerable surplus--it is a flat piece of leather being shaped to a highly three dimensional form. Those pipes and "surplus army goods" have to be dealt with one way or the other. And, generally speaking, no matter how good the maker, they cannot always be pulled out (stretched) esp. in high quality leather.

    The only alternative is to compress the surplus leather into smaller and smaller pipes and wrinkles until they are nearly unseen. Nearly...almost...but never entirely. Because even if perfectly eliminated the surplus is still there...in the leather. Done correctly, this doesn't have to present a problem--that surplus is usually located primarily in the heel area, where it will be stabilized and bonded to the heel stiffener.

    But potentially it could become a little "baggy." Just like the skin on old people's hands and faces--it can be chemically or even surgically tightened but the excess and looseness is still in there.
    2 people like this.

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