Why all the hate for wholecuts?

[Caustic Man]

A recent conversation highlighted a relatively common disapproval for whole cut shoes. As I sat and thought on this it occurred to me that this is a common apprehension that I have observed several times over several years on SF. Personally I like them. I only own one pair so it's not an obsession, but I do see them as having a place, albeit perhaps an exceedingly niche place. So tell me, all ye who disapprove, why the dislike for wholecuts? Give me reasoned responses or face the SF ire of having no "philosophy" about clothes!

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

I think a nice wholecut Oxford is a thing of beauty (especially the seamless variety).

There might be a desparity on this between sartorialists and true shoe enthusiasts. I can see the lack of need for a wholecut in a person's rotation or outfit options, due to the lack of versatility or flair. It's not a rotation necessity really.

In comparison those interested in shoe details and construction, there is a special place reserved for wholecuts. It is an excercise in a shoemaker's technique and execution more than anything IMO...

 

[Caustic Man]

I tend to agree, but there is a difference between saying "they aren't very versatile" and saying "I don't like them". Mostly I have heard the latter.

 

[AndrzejJopek]

Here is my collection that i got from Nick.
It takes a little while to come to appreciate wholecut shoes and if you are on the edge, you have to take the plunge and buy a pair.
I find wholcuts to be more comfortable.
The only downside is that they do tend to show creases more than others, but these go away with some Saphir Mink Oil.

I have a slim foot taking a std UK9 (GG, C&J) but do find that the TG73 is slightly tighter in the toe box requiring a more breaking in.

The St James TG73 took a few good weeks on/off to break in. Now they are very good.
The Grant Rioja are TG73 and took a few wears.
The Chestnut Sinatra TG73 were ordered with a "little extra toe room" and they fit very well out of the box without any need to break in.
The Uppingham II Midnight Blue is MH71 is an absolute totally perfect fit.

All my future shoes will be MH71.

 

[Mr. Six]

I would not call the wholecut the most forma shoe, either for evening or day. To me it is a "contemporary" shoe and this somewhat fashion forward.

For formal day wear, I like a black punch cap (boot or shoe). For evening wear, a stich cap. For black/white tie, a plain toe oxford.

I believe that post of Manton's expresses the view of some here against wholecuts. So, nothing wrong with them per se, but they're more fashion forward than traditional with the resulting implications of choosing them over the other options.

 

[TM79]

Yep - that's basically how I feel.

Plus, I like broguing and some other detailing on shoes and that leads me to not like wholecut shoes. I think having any broguing on a wholecut basically defeats the purpose of one, but they do exist ... and I like those even less.

 

[Caustic Man]

Yep - that's basically how I feel.

Plus, I like broguing and some other detailing on shoes and that leads me to not like wholecut shoes. I think having any broguing on a wholecut basically defeats the purpose of one, but they do exist ... and I like those even less.

My whole cut has broguing lol. I will say this, I only wear it with less traditional combinations. I don't know that that is on purpose, just a general feeling. I plan on wearing them when it gets warm enough for a summer daytime fit.

 

[JLibourel]

I have a couple pairs of A-E wholecuts with broguing and like 'em just fine, if that's any consolation to you.

Too many nitpickers in forumland!

 

[T4phage]



........ or face the SF ire of having no "philosophy" about clothes!

this is a joke
right
?
usually lies
in teh domain
of
streetwear
lawlz

 

[DWFII]

Actually the idea of wholecuts being less formal makes no sense whatever.

The essence of elegance is simplicity. Can't get any simpler than a whole cut--understated, clean, austere...in basic black, the most formal shoe, IMO.

 

[Caustic Man]

I have a couple pairs of A-E wholecuts with broguing and like 'em just fine, if that's any consolation to you.

Too many nitpickers in forumland!

this is a joke
right
?
usually lies
in teh domain
of
streetwear
lawlz

Of course it's a joke, ya dink!

Actually the idea of wholecuts being less formal makes no sense whatever.

The essence of elegance is simplicity. Can't get any simpler than a whole cut--understated, clean, austere...in basic black, the most formal shoe, IMO.

I hear you on that one, however the simple = formal paradigm doesn't always hold true. Plain toe bluchers are on example.

 

[DWFII]



I hear you on that one, however the simple = formal paradigm doesn't always hold true. Plain toe bluchers are on example.

But simple isn't necessarily the same as simplicity. Bluchers are a pieced shoe. So right there you have a complexity / busy-ness / visual distraction that you don't have with a whole cut.

 

[Caustic Man]

That's true, but a cap toe oxford is busier than a plain toe blucher and is still considered more formal.

 

[DWFII]



That's true, but a cap toe oxford is busier than a plain toe blucher and is still considered more formal.

Maybe it has something to do with negative space.

But in any case, they're both pieced and I think it could be argued that, all other things being equal, a black wholecut is more formal than a black cap toe oxford.

Ultimately of course, it's all a matter of perception. Those who don't like wholecuts or don't accept the notion concept of simplicity = elegance, will never agree.

 

[Caustic Man]

It could certainly be argued, and I'd tend to agree. However I think it's more complicated than "the less elaborate the more formal". Certainly things tend toward that way, but there are all kinds of leaks and valleys that both confirm and contradict those things.