Who should review the Crittendon?

[riverrun]

Originally Posted by Manton

True, Mariano R. does not sew, but the sewing there is still very good. When you get to that altitute (of quality, not price necessarily) the sewing is pretty much all very good. Especially in Italy.

So you're saying R's premium isn't for his tailoring but for...brand recognition? The Italian equivalent of Thom Brown charging 3x what Ciccarelli charges because you get the "Thom Brown" label sewn in your jacket?

 

[A Harris]

How many top tailors are one man operations and do the sewing themselves?? I don't understand the argument you are making.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by riverrun

So you're saying R's premium isn't for his tailoring but for...brand recognition? The Italian equivalent of Thom Brown charging 3x what Ciccarelli charges because you get the "Thom Brown" label sewn in your jacket?

No, the premium is that the sewing is as good as the very best tailors, and better than all the others; the cut is unique to the house and very flattering (assuming you like the style); Mariano's taste is excellent; and his skill as a fitter is superb.

No question the suits are expensive, and you can get a great suit for a lot less. But I don't think he's ripping anyone off, or even close.

The Thom Brown/Ciccarelli comparison is not really apt because the Rubinacci garment is way better made that Ciccarelli (not that I have anything against Ciccarelli), it is truly bespoke, and it is being made by tailors who work with you in person and overseen by someone with about the best eye in the business.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by A Harris

How many top tailors are one man operations and do the sewing themselves?

I have used such a tailor in the past, and as much as I like the clothes, I have to say that another tailor I use, who only sews a portion himself and leaves the rest to employees and outworkers, does a finer job with the needle.

 

[itsstillmatt]

I feel like somehow I should respond, but I don't really have anything to say. Yes, they are expensive, but I like them and am more than happy to pay the prices given what I have seen from alternatives around the world at prices higher and lower, and given that I like to travel to Italy. Do I pay for his name? Perhaps, but I prefer to think of it as paying for his service. Either way, I am happy.

Edit: I suppose that I could say that they are made by xxx xxxxxx tailor who cuts or sews them, but that would hardly give anybody any information.

 

[riverrun]

No, it's cool Manton, you can just come right out and call iammatt a label-whore if that's what you think. No need to pull a FNB and conceal your barbs.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by riverrun

No, it's cool Manton, you can just come right out and call iammatt a label-whore if that's what you think. No need to pull a FNB and conceal your barbs.

 

[Willsw]

Originally Posted by riverrun

label-whore

I believe the preferred nomenclature is labelking.

 

[riverrun]

Well played. I admit I didn't see that coming, but I'd still love for the record to reflect some credit for my assist.

 

[aportnoy]

If you are paying in the top dollar range of bespoke and you don't think your tailor is the best for your needs, you are a fool for using said tailor

 

[Manton]

riverrun, one thing maybe worth noting, is that maybe .01% of even the suit buying population is aware of the Rubinacci name. I think label whores tend to concentrate on brands that people have heard of, and that they can brag about. If someone complimented your suit at a Manhattan party and asked where you got it, and you said "Rubinacci," you'd get a blank stare.

 

[slycedbred]

Originally Posted by Manton

I think label whores tend to concentrate on brands that people have heard of, and that they can brag about.

+1

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Edit: I suppose that I could say that they are made by xxx xxxxxx tailor who cuts or sews them, but that would hardly give anybody any information.

Except that any one of those guys could probably go out on his own tomorrow and make a very good living, and even build up a following on the InterWebs.

 

[riverrun]

I hesitate to cut this off before I can offend more forum fixtures (was angling to draw socal into the insanity with the Thom Brown comments, although now we'll never know if that would have worked). To clarify, I think matt's Rubinacci is among the most uniformly exceptional stuff posted in the WAYW thread (or should I say exceptionally uniform? no, that's another joke; the commitment to understatement, piped seersucker aside, is right behind cut and cloth in terms of reasons I admire it). I do appreciate the bottomless depths of everyone's earnestness in responding to my increasingly ridiculous wind ups. I thought comparing Manton to FNB would make clear my irony, but maybe there's some latent anxiety about their similarity that I tapped into? :ducks:


So.....how 'bout that Crittendon?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by riverrun

So.....how 'bout that Crittendon?

Who knows? The tester doesn't have it yet.