Who makes full bespoke shirts in London?

[radicaldog]

By that I mean not only individual pattern for the body (rather than adjusted block-pattern), but also the possibility to draft a collar with the artesan. Please don't hesitate to mention the obvious names, so long as they provide full bespoke. Also, do any of them do handsewn buttonholes, collar attachment, sleeve attachments, etc, or is that just a Neapolitan/French feature?

 

[Will]

T&A does full bespoke but my experience with their collar drafting was unsatisfactory. And the artisans are kept away from London.

Handsewn collar and sleeve attachment is a good recipe for short shirt lfe in my opinion.

 

[Xiaogou]

I am a T&A fan all the way. The shirts too.

 

[marc237]

I would think Kabbaz would, but I am not sure why so much hand sewing a necessity.

 

[Manton]

Kabbaz attaches the buttons by hand, but that is all. He believes hand sewing is inferior to machine.

 

[Holdfast]

I would have thought any of the usual suspects using Rayner & Sturges would allow you to make whatever collar you wanted. Certainly my recent experience was that my first bespoke shirt with a standard collar wasn't quite to my liking in terms of point length, shape and a couple of other details, so I suggested a couple of little tweaks which they then incorporated to create a new shape on the second shirt that I greatly prefer.

But I certainly didn't "design the collar with the artisan"; I specified what I required in terms of look/measurements that wasn't quite being achieved and let them then make the aesthetic adjustments they felt necessary to deliver that result. They did that very well and that was enough for my own needs.

 

[radicaldog]

Thanks for the responses. I wonder why the English abhor needle and thread so much, good as they are with the shears. Yes yes, industrialisation started on this godforsaken island, but still.

 

[newtrane]

Originally Posted by Will

T&A does full bespoke but my experience with their collar drafting was unsatisfactory. And the artisans are kept away from London.

Handsewn collar and sleeve attachment is a good recipe for short shirt lfe in my opinion.

@Will: Did they refuse to pay you kickbacks ..?

 

[Bounder]

Originally Posted by radicaldog

By that I mean not only individual pattern for the body (rather than adjusted block-pattern), but also the possibility to draft a collar with the artesan.

Eric Glennie can certainly help you out. If Mr. Glennie is out of your price range, you might try Sean O'Flynn.

 

[satanama]

What about Oscar Udeshi? I know he isn't a shirtmaker himself, but he's the first one I'd try in London. He'll have a try on shirt made for you, so you can wash it a few times and use it, and he'll made as many changes to this shirt as you wish. And only when you're totally satisfied he'll proceed with your order... I'd say he's very acomodating when it comes to shirt collars too... Has anyone here tried his bespoke shirt service?

Iñaki

 

[sartorialexecutive]

Originally Posted by radicaldog

By that I mean not only individual pattern for the body (rather than adjusted block-pattern), but also the possibility to draft a collar with the artesan.

Surely any bespoke shirtmaker can do that for you? No? In London I suggest this means Budd, Dege, T&A, Emma Willis, O'Flynn, Boyd and the usual others. Isn't that pretty fundamental to it being bespoke?

 

[theoldadage]

I know for a fact that Russell and Hodge are happy to experiment with Collars.

 

[fox81]

i think russell and hodge are the only ones that make the shirt in london.

 

[jon5986]

Sean O'Flynn makes wonderful shirts. He also has a website.

 

[The_Foxx]

since you are in London, would you mind checking into Emma Willis bespoke shirts? I just ordered some semi-bespoke shirts from them (thru the mail), and I'd be interested to see what you think of their construction, options, etc. and whether they meet your criteria.

here is their website:
http://www.emmawillis.com/bespoke/