Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.
So how's this stuff I put together today? Squarefail? Wholefail?
Shirt is solid purple on white. Tie is green. Suiting is white stripes on navy.
I don't wear stripes like that (if I do, they are chalk stripe flannel rather than on worsted), but I do like the suiting.
Also, when people tell you "go strong or go home," don't listen.
Stitchy - nice combo, if conservative. This is a suit, yes? Shirt collar could be better.
RD - I like. Except for the shirt. It's not terrible, but it makes the whole thing a bit too colorful. I'm not sure what to suggest otherwise. Maybe a light blue pencil stripe.
Thanks, un. Yes it is a suit. Agree about collar. Another older BB shirt.
Diaz, first of all, ditch th bulky knot. Second, that's the wrong tie for a coat like that. The colors are too close and the pattern is too businessy.
/\ Would you guys provide a short explanation on what could be better to the eye on stitches' collar? Is it too straight-collar and not enough spread? Do these features ebb and flow with fashion/trend?
It has long been held that collar points should extend to the lapel of the jacket. A smaller, skimpier collar that leaves a gap of shirting underneath looks less conservative and breaks up the clean lines of a fit.
Look at the first few pages of this thread and note the proportion of the collar in regards to the tie and lapels. They extend at least to the beginning of the lapel, compliment the width of the tie and the size of its knot, and echo the formality (or informality) of the fit. A nice roll at the top of the collar and clean buttoning points (that do not show layers of shirt when worn with a tie) are also nice details.
A collar should also frame the face and be somewhat in line with the gorge, though you can't really tell either of those two things from stitch's example.
Thanks for the feedback. I tried a FIH and a double FIH and the thin blade was showing (I hate being short *sigh*). This is actually a Pratt, didn't know what else to do...
What kind of tie would work for this? I'm guessing something with texture, like a grenadine?
Thank you. I understand that and agree with it. If I could use in stitches as a guineau pig for just a bit longer here for my own education ... is the problem the shirt, the jacket, or just bad karma between the two? I guess it's also possible everything else is OK except the fit. (Thanks for the forebearance stitch.)
>> edit: I studied your response further and have concluded that it's really everything working together. (thanks again ... this is heightening my awareness in ways I hope are helpful.)
Is Manton's disdain for neats with odd jackets universal? It's not something I really feel intuitively the same way I feel that pinstripes are for business.
That would be interesting to know... I've always found neats less businessy than, say, stripes, plain or pin dots; but that might be because that's what I'm used to see businessmen wearing around here (and this country isn't exactly a sartorial paradise)
"Long" as in "SF likes it"?
"Long" as in since roughly 2002.
I don't think that's a universal view, on SF or IRL. But I do share it.
I don't think that's a universal view, on SF or IRL. I don't share it. Although this specific tie (and blue neats in general, although there are exceptions) looks too business to me too.
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