whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    So how's this stuff I put together today? Squarefail? Wholefail?

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

    Messages:
    803
    Likes Received:
    74
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2011
    

    Shirt is solid purple on white. Tie is green. Suiting is white stripes on navy.
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Likes Received:
    1,911
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    I don't wear stripes like that (if I do, they are chalk stripe flannel rather than on worsted), but I do like the suiting.
    Also, when people tell you "go strong or go home," don't listen.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Stitchy - nice combo, if conservative. This is a suit, yes? Shirt collar could be better.

    RD - I like. Except for the shirt. It's not terrible, but it makes the whole thing a bit too colorful. I'm not sure what to suggest otherwise. Maybe a light blue pencil stripe.
     
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    Thanks, un. Yes it is a suit. Agree about collar. Another older BB shirt.
     
  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Diaz, first of all, ditch th bulky knot. Second, that's the wrong tie for a coat like that. The colors are too close and the pattern is too businessy.
     
  7. scoredtx

    scoredtx Active Member

    Messages:
    42
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2012
    /\ Would you guys provide a short explanation on what could be better to the eye on stitches' collar? Is it too straight-collar and not enough spread? Do these features ebb and flow with fashion/trend?
     
  8. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

    Messages:
    4,027
    Likes Received:
    1,629
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2011
    

    It has long been held that collar points should extend to the lapel of the jacket. A smaller, skimpier collar that leaves a gap of shirting underneath looks less conservative and breaks up the clean lines of a fit.

    Look at the first few pages of this thread and note the proportion of the collar in regards to the tie and lapels. They extend at least to the beginning of the lapel, compliment the width of the tie and the size of its knot, and echo the formality (or informality) of the fit. A nice roll at the top of the collar and clean buttoning points (that do not show layers of shirt when worn with a tie) are also nice details.

    A collar should also frame the face and be somewhat in line with the gorge, though you can't really tell either of those two things from stitch's example.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  9. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    Thanks for the feedback. I tried a FIH and a double FIH and the thin blade was showing (I hate being short *sigh*). This is actually a Pratt, didn't know what else to do...
    What kind of tie would work for this? I'm guessing something with texture, like a grenadine?
     
  10. scoredtx

    scoredtx Active Member

    Messages:
    42
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2012
    Thank you. I understand that and agree with it. If I could use in stitches as a guineau pig for just a bit longer here for my own education ... is the problem the shirt, the jacket, or just bad karma between the two? I guess it's also possible everything else is OK except the fit. (Thanks for the forebearance stitch.)

    >> edit: I studied your response further and have concluded that it's really everything working together. (thanks again ... this is heightening my awareness in ways I hope are helpful.)
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,356
    Likes Received:
    4,533
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Is Manton's disdain for neats with odd jackets universal? It's not something I really feel intuitively the same way I feel that pinstripes are for business.
     
  12. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

    Messages:
    2,668
    Likes Received:
    2,097
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2011
    Location:
    Madrid
    That would be interesting to know... I've always found neats less businessy than, say, stripes, plain or pin dots; but that might be because that's what I'm used to see businessmen wearing around here (and this country isn't exactly a sartorial paradise)
     
  13. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    

    "Long" as in "SF likes it"?
     
  14. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

    Messages:
    4,027
    Likes Received:
    1,629
    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2011
    

    "Long" as in since roughly 2002. :D
     
  15. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,700
    Likes Received:
    17,054
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    

    I don't think that's a universal view, on SF or IRL. But I do share it.


    I don't think that's a universal view, on SF or IRL. I don't share it. Although this specific tie (and blue neats in general, although there are exceptions) looks too business to me too.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by