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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I think the answer to both questions is yes, most of the time. Certainly not always.
     
  2. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I'm not sure there is a right or wrong answer to the first question.

    I do not think a PS alone conveys being a clothing hobbyist. I think it takes a lot more than that.
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Yes to the first question, though not in all cases and depends on the good taste definition used. No to the second, at least for white linen.
     
  4. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Interesting thoughts so far. Of the pieces generally discussed, I feel that most people would look at the pocket square as the most unusual, which is a dead give away for a hobbyist. Even the worst dressed men out there have a coat and tie in their closet, afterall.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015
  5. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    It's tough to put yourself in the position of someone who doesn't know anything about tailored clothing once you've taken the plunge, but my guess would be a knit tie would seem more out of place to a person than a pocket square.

    Or even patch pockets. Everyone is used to the standard pocket flaps.
     
  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Sometimes we think the average person pays a lot more attention to us than they actually do.
     
    5 people like this.
  7. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    True that it's a tough question. I think the knit tie could certainly come close, depending on the colors and other factors.

    I wouldn't have considered the pockets to be worth factoring though.
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I think the PS is a giveaway, especially if it's a nice one in a SF-approved puff, rather than the plain white slash. But yes to the knit ties - to most people, they are reminiscent of 1970s (or very unfashionable 1980s) geography teachers.

    Frankly, wearing a jacket and tie, or even proper shoes for that matter, is statement enough where I work. I am doubtless considered eccentric. And enjoy a quiet sense of satisfaction for it. I'm probably unbearable, but at least I have you...
     
  9. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    So I may be creating a false dichotomy, but I tend to think of it in terms of what people will see as deliberately "placed" when it otherwise wasn't necessary.

    There is a line in menswear that once you cross it, moves you into the realm of being a hobbyist, dandy, whatever you want to call it.

    For me, there is room for artistic liberty within the "required" articles of clothing. Since a coat/suit, tie, dress shirt, and dress shoes are still required for most everybody at some point (even if it's not work related), then nobody is going to think you have crossed the proverbial line by wearing those, most of the time. Unless you are wearing colors that make you stand out like a peacock, or the fit is over the top in a fashion forward way (read not timeless).

    Generally, if you are wearing a "required" element of clothing as described above, people won't think much (other than complimentary thoughts) of a very well fitted, well cut, suit. Same goes for some added elegance in your shoes, and a tasteful tie. They will just think you look good, and frequently they won't know why. They may notice some of the details and just think that you have slightly fancier taste, or some other descriptive term. Who knows.

    However, on the other side of that line comes the articles of menswear that, no matter how traditional they may be, they are no longer considered "normal." Collar pins, many types of jewelry, unusual collar styles, lapel cuts, etc., extra pieces in the suit, can all fall into this realm. They are fine, as long as you are ok with being viewed as a hobbyist, dandy, etc.

    Now, to me there are a few items that straddle the line, and to me the pocket square is the most frequently encountered one. Depending upon the person, cufflinks can be a close second, but generally not as much as a pocket square to me.

    If the goal is to not look like you have deliberately placed an item on your person, which serves no purpose other than to look good, then a pocket square can't be required for good taste. It can still be in good taste to wear one, but it can't be mandatory. While some of the other items being worn may not have any more purpose, they still fall into the realm of being "required" according to the criteria I initially mentioned, and therefore they won't be found distastefully unusual to the average man simply by varying textures, colors, patterns, etc. Rather, they will hopefully fall into the realm of looking great without the observer being able to place their finger on anything specific.
     
  10. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think the muted grey silk knit tie is far too dull of a color. It washes out the look and is the weakest link in the outfit. A better color tie would elevate the entire look.

    I also agree that a solid knit tie is not the best choice. Knits are best with less formal material and patterns like corduroy, flannel and plain twills. The windowpane pattern begs for something a bit more formal.
     
  11. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I actually wouldn't change a thing about that outfit. I love how austere (aesthetically) it is while at the same time being playful. White spread collar, but it's oxford. Dark navy windowpane, but it's in a casual cut and has three (tulip shaped) patch pockets (as well as being fresco). Silver tie, but it's knit.

    But more to the point, anything but a gray tie would have failed to capture the aesthetic that I wanted to capture.

    And I love solid silk knits. Probably more than grenadines.

    No claims at being a tasteful dresser though.

    -----

    I actually am not a huge fanknits with flannel. Knits always feel like spring/summer ties, and flannel is firmly in the winter category. I used to not have a problem with this, but my wife always gave me shit for wearing knits when it was cold outside.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2015
  12. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have several silk knits that look very Fall/Winter - black, burgundy, olive, brown/navy heather. Only the black knit can be worn in the Spring/Summer without it looking odd. The other colors look too autumnal for warm weather.

    I think a black silk knit can look rather nice with a grey flannel suit.
     
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  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Some wintery knits (not all silk, not all in wintery fits, and not all me)


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    As a one person sample size, I wear patch pockets most of the time, pocket squares about half the time, and knit ties once or twice per week. I don't get too many comments on my clothes, but nobody has ever mentioned the pockets on my coats. Not once. It's rare that anybody comments on my pocket squares, but it happens from time to time. However, people seem to notice a knit tie.
     
  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Come to think of it, I get more comments on knits than anything else besides maybe fit. Overwhelmingly positive...generally "interesting...I've never seen a tie like that...can I feel it?"
     
  16. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Imagine if you wore a sportcoat made entirely of knit tie fabric. The response would be off the charts.
     
  17. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    That's why I prefer knit underwear
     
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  18. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    You quoted the wrong post. I think you meant this one.


     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2015
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  19. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Yes, that's what I meant
     
  20. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Sounds like Zagat reviews of the male anatomy.

    "Overwhelmingly positive," rave patrons, who say they've "never seen or handled anything like it" before. Diners enjoy the "hands-on" service and ask "can I feel it?" While some complain about "inadequate portion size," most agree, "Would dine again."
     
    2 people like this.

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