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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I never understood the whole face shape, spread collar thing. I just think spread collars looks better on everybody.
     
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  2. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    What about semi spread - best of both worlds.
     
  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is "semi" anything ever good? :confused:
     
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  4. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Semiconductors
     
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  5. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    pBooth I like your collars. They are a good height and size.

    Too many guys collars aren't long enough to touch under the lapels or they are too short and look squatty.

    To me the perfect spread gently tucks under the lapel when the top button is buttoned or unbuttoned. These very narrow collars guys wear with skinny ties can't do it , so they won't ever have as elegant look IMO.
     
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  6. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not to put too fine a spin about it, but here's the same collar later in the day.

    [​IMG]

    One of yours. The difference isn't huge.
    [​IMG]

    Apropos an earlier part of the thread: without stays, the collar softens up a bit, relaxes in all directions. With a softer lining, it would curve a bit more from the top of the tie, and future renditions will be made with a softer interlining as yours are, I think.

    I'd call Mktitsworth's collar a few pages back a point collar and it has as narrow gap over the knot. The angle of the collar seems no greater than 90 degrees.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The pic you originally posted looked much different. My interlining isn't all that soft. I would call it middle of the road actually. It's nowhere near as soft as some of the Italian makers.
     
  8. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    This is partially a result of not wearing custom shirts, and partially a result of liking variety, but I prefer to have a number of different collars on the shirts in my rotation. Dont really see a need to commit to only one type of collar.
     
  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If it isn't a button-down collar I see no reason not to commit if one just looks better than the rest.
     
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  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I have not found that one type particularly looks best. I try and stay away from cut aways when wearing a tie, but outside of that, I find that many collars look nice on me. Never saw a need to wear only one type.
     
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  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How very Foo of you pB.
     
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Anything looks nice on you, baby.
     
  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ?
     
  14. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What?? No One Collar[​IMG] ??
     
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  15. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's Foo's rationale for the OneShirt[​IMG], OneShoe[​IMG], and OneSilhouette[​IMG]. I don't disagree with it (much), and I'm actually in the process of replacing my shirts with a OneShirt[​IMG], at least in the cut if not the fabric.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2014
  16. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    He and I approach style in a very similar way when you think about it. We just have a bit different tastes.
     
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  17. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I'd have to disagree with you on that, but I've seen more of it. I think that the other pictures of the collar make it apparent that this is not point collar. The points on it are longer than what most people here like, but the collar band is also rather high and the angle is about 105 degrees. I would say that this sort of angle is pretty consistent across my medium spread - my personal preference - custom shirts from both Hamilton and Chris. This also leads me to noting that "spread" can have different connotations and run a gamut from this to a cutaway.

    As far as the facial shape and collar style bit, I did some work on this in a thread when thinking about these things to begin with. There was a thread for it made here.
     
  18. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fair enough. One shot never tells the whole story (see my previous two pics). That's a cool thread, btw, and graphics. Which one did you opt for?
     
  19. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    :inlove:
     
  20. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Apparently the poll is no longer there, but I think I went with (counting top-bottom, left-right) something like the fourth. My first shirts were from Hamilton, and that's pretty spot on to their medium spread collar. Here is a picture of it I can find:

    [​IMG]

    These next three, made through Despos, have (I think) a slightly higher collar band and longer points, which I suppose puts them near a 4.5. I was initially sort of reticent about this but we made one shirt first (the blue one) and I was asked to give it a try wearing it around. So I did, and I found that where the spread hits the lapels does a good job of - for lack of a way to put it - mirroring my face below the neck. Here are some other pictures which may put this in perspective.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I can comment more about the difference that I see between the two collars if desired, but will refrain from biasing anyone at this moment.
     

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