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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They're not for everyone, and that's part of their appeal.
     
    3 people like this.
  2. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    What I'm taking from all this is that you don't own a boxed set of The Avengers. [​IMG]

    But hey, the great thing about them is that they can do a lot in a wardrobe, or you can have a great wardrobe that leaves them out entirely.

    Doc, how do you feel about brogued chelseas? I think I ask every other chelsea fan that at one time or another, but I genuinely can't make up my mind.
     
  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Doc and YRR, fair enough. I'd never criticize someone for wearing them, they're just not something I can get behind at this point. I'm also curious whether it is that (A) people like the side gusset, (B) people don't care about the side gusset or (C) people share some concern about the side gusset but think that the overall awesomeness of the boot compensates for it.
     
  4. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't care for them. The plainness is what appeals to me, and broguing just seems like clutter.
     
  5. bullethead

    bullethead Senior member

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    ^ I agree. Ditto for antiquing. I like them in plain calf and to a lesser extent, a dark brown suede.
     
  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like the look of the gusset, as long as it doesn't have the leather Venetian blinds applied over top, as you sometimes see. Durability doesn't worry me, as mine have held up fine. Besides, I don't hold them out as sensible shoes of the conservative sort, and probably wouldn't suggest them for a fellow worried about long-term durability. For me, they have style, and I'll replace as necessary. They're require a bit of devil-may-care attitude, and I like that about them.
     
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  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What's a little bit 1800s about them?

    I like them in theory but in practice haven't found the right one. I usually like somewhat sleek and chiseled lasts, but I don't think that suits a Chelsea. But the rounder ones look like rainboots to me. Someday I will find my pair.
     
  8. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Elasticated boots were invented in the mid-1800s and enjoyed quite the vogue in the 19th century. Queen Victoria was said to be a fan.
     
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  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  10. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Agree with Doc on not caring for brogued Chelseas and on not minding the gusset.



    I think I know where you're comming from. While I admire R.M. Williams for their one-piece construction, I think most of their offerings are too blobby/workmen-like for what I would be looking for in a Chelsea.

    But I have a pair of C&J's Chelsea boots on last 238 (they call it 'Chelsea 3' now) that might match your wishes for a 'somewhat sleek and chiseled last', without being obnoxious about it.

    Some pics here and here.

    Now, I think I may add a black one as well, but since I mostly wear Chukkas I'm not sure if it should be a Chelsea or maybe a George boot instead...
     
  11. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    I still can't think of a situation where I'd rather wear a mongrel like a Chelsea boot, rather than a more thoroughbred shoe.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014
  12. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Well, a wise man did once say:

    They're not for everyone, and that's part of their appeal.

    :)
     
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  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If I could only own a single pair of shoes, they'd be brown chelseas (and I'd just be fucked at funerals).

    I own a pair from AE and would like to own another. One without medallions preferably. Recommendations (<500)

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Just a couple of thoughts.

    (1) I rank them a touch more informal than chukkas, say. Something has to be right on the cusp between classic and streetwear (to appeal to the SF typology) and perhaps this is it. (If they have boot-pull loops fore, aft, or both, they’re even more informal, I think.) I wouldn’t wear them with a tie myself, but I don’t doubt for a moment that others can pull that off quite convincingly.

    (2) As a number of people have observed, you don’t see the gussets when standing.

    (3) Regarding the longevity of the gusset, the ones actually meant for riding are very durable. They don’t flex that much when walking; the gussets mostly make them easy to get on and off. Obviously, as with anything, there are cheap brands which won’t hold up, but in my experience with the riding boots the stitching will start to give out before the gussets. Don’t take my word for it. Here’s a shot of my ca. 10 year old Ariat Cobalt Pros which I’m wearing right now:

    [​IMG]


    I don’t think I’ve ever polished these. I would have treated them with mink oil before wearing them for the first time, and wiped them off on occasion (and the soles all the time, of course), but that’s about it. So these don’t look very good, but that’s not my point. These are what I change into whenever I get home from work and have done for about ten years and and you can see a tiny bit of fraying at the top of the gusset and that’s it.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  15. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Interesting. To me a chukka is much more casual (of course, different lasts can change the perception of this).
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014
  16. ethanm

    ethanm Senior member

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    I always found the chelsea/half-chap combo to be vastly inferior to a full boot when riding. The convenience factor was never enough to justify the loss in functionality.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2014
  17. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Clags, the second link Kaplan posted had the C&Js for $477
     
  18. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I can see why. For me the presence or absence of laces draws a boundary. Others may reasonably have different criteria.

    Honestly, the idea of a single continuum from formal to informal, while helpful for quick chats like this, ultimately won't work in individual cases because there are too many variables.

    Adjectives are tricky.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  19. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    I agree. You'll note I didn't say anything about using these on a horse (although early in their life they did see a bit of barn duty), merely that they were made for that purpose. I was addressing the concern expressed by others about longevity.

    When I used to ride it was always in a tall boot, as I appreciate the additional ankle support, as well as the firmer surface with which to apply a leg aid. As most have zippers these days, getting them on (and off!) is no longer the major production it used to be.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
  20. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Very cool Haight boots Clag. Cute picture too. The Haight is on clearance for $247.00- just got the email from AE.

    They dress up great and I think they are a classic dress boot for colder climates.

    Sadly I'm moving to FL soon.
     

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