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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. MrChris

    MrChris Senior member

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    A couple of recent ones, suitable for this thread? I leave it up to you gentlemen to decide...

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    The first fit would benefit from more contrast between the suit and tie. The second one works assuming the suit is navy.
     
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  3. MrChris

    MrChris Senior member

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    Yes the 2nd suitis navy.
     
  4. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  5. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I think it works, but given the scale of pattern and the texture, isn't it more of a suit tie? The color makes it work well with the coat, though, so I'd love to hear from the members (Manton, DocHolliday) who are more attuned to this than I am.

    And thanks for the compliment on my tie in the other thread.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    i like it, but i always wonder about check jackets and neat ties. i have a shepherds check at the tailor and im struggling to think what to wear with it besides solid ties.

    what are the opinions of the GTM (Good Taste Members) on that?
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those are fine, Mr. Chris.

    RE: pliny, I do tend to wear ties like that only with suits. However, there is nothing wrong with what he did here. It's a common look in Italy. It's fine, if not necessarily what I would do.
     
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  8. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I don't see you in a lot of stripes, emblematics, or paisley/medallion print ties, but those have my vote. I also think relatively small neats in challis or madder can work well. For me, any printed tie with an odd jacket (besides a blazer, of course) needs a fair bit of texture (I'd say at least as much as a repp tie has), and a little larger scale helps.

    I know Manton has mentioned stripes and knits are his choices with odd jackets, but I think you (and I!) wear odd jackets more often than he does, so I like a wider selection.

    EDIT: Thanks for clarifying, Manton.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  9. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pliny, agree with Manton that you see this all the time in Italy. I also think this pattern falls on the dressier side for an odd jacket so the neat tie is workable.
     
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  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, "it's done in Italy," but I don't see why that is a valid defense of anything.

    The medallions on the tie are too small and fine given the fineness and density of the jacket pattern. Does it look terrible? No. But it is not ideal. A bold stripe or larger, more graphic motif would be much better.

    What is the pocket square? White linen? I'm sure many credible authorities will chime in that a white linen square is always correct. However, as I've argued before, that just isn't true. The contrast is too sharp and jarring against a rough, multi-colored tweed. I reserve white linen for business dress--and even then, only for certain situations.

    Returning to a broader point: we need to stop assuming anything popular amongst Italian businessmen must be sartorially permissible.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
    4 people like this.
  11. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Feel like I dodged a bullet there, u had me second guessing YRR. Interesting and informative (for me) comments. SC is a worsted so not entirely rustic, and tie, tho neat, is a warm flower dot in 4 colors, so a little more countrified than most.
    edit: yeah linen square + shirt is (sky) blue
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I personally wouldn't wear a white linen square with a SC and I'm Mr. White Linen. (Insert Racist Joke)
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It matters not whether the jacket is worsted or true tweed. It is made in the style of true tweed and meant to look the part, so it should be worn as such.

    As for the tie motif: ninety-nine percent of all neat motifs are floral with three or four colors. That does not make any of them more country.
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good man.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i wouldn't wear white linen with a hairy tweed, but with a smooth micro check like that, sure.

    in any case, that square does not look like white linen.
     
  16. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I'd wear a stripe, a larger-print medallion, or a solid knit. Probably a solid knit.

    Agree on the hank, wouldnt be my first choice.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  17. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A knit could be nice--just please not navy blue. Bottle green grenadine would be fantastic.
     
  18. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Bottle green would definitely be my first thought. I don't think navy would be terrible, but green would absolutely look great here.
     
  19. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    So, if we hypothesize a jacket in shetland or Harris Tweed with the exact same pattern as that jacket, you'd be willing to put something together for the rough one, swap in the worsted coat, and not change a thing? Would you do that for everything one could wear with the Harris, or only the relatively "smooth" end of that stuff? I'm not sure about wearing a brushed-finish tattersall shirt or mid-to-wide wale cords with a plain worsted coat, for example.

    I'm actually a little gun-shy (puns!) of that kind of smooth checked jacket, if only because I feel like I'd have a terrible time with squares for it. The pattern often seems to come through more "strongly" than it does on a tweed with more surface interest.

    I was going through stuff I'd worn recently to see if I had anything worth posting here, and have reached the conclusion that I need some new shirts.
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, I would wear such a worsted tweed exactly as I would a true shetland or Harris tweed of the same color and pattern. Even though worsted, the fabric is still not smooth like typical suiting. The yarns are usually quite a bit larger and the weave more obvious. Also, the earthy, autumnal colors typical of tweed are jarring against stark white linen regardless of texture. Browns, greens, oranges, blues, etc., are colors that occur frequently in nature. Pure white, not so much. White is a much more contrived, purposeful color and thus fits more in-line with business dress in urban settings. The matter is only made worse by the fact that linen should be folded. A casual jacket calls for a more casual square fold (not folded at all).
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014

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