whnay.'s good taste thread

[Balfour]

520 is a great shade, I have it myself. It's not navy, though, it's quite a bit lighter. I would say that it does have a slightly gray cast. Anyway, the point is, if you want something you can use as a totally classic in every way blazer, that is not it.

My beginner-ish take was 0520 was sufficiently blue to make a BlazerSuit, but the grey/blue of 0577 was more appropriate to a summer suit?

 

[sugarbutch]

Can the BlazerSuit and cloth discussion be taken to the Unfunded Liabilities thread? It's really off-topic here.

No, it's perfectly fine. The cloth and details you pick for a bespoke order are good discussion points for exploring good taste.

Really?

Complaints about the quality of my pics will be ignored. I urge chavs, fops, bottom feeders and n00bs to think carefully before you post in this thread. If you are wondering whether something is in good taste, it probably isn't. I encourage nay, foo, matt, dopey, gdl, vox (he is missed), concordia, t4, parker, will, baron, edmorel and some others whose names aren't occuring to me at the moment to comment with directness but without rancor. of course, there will be little need to say anything about my combos because they will always be impeccable.

How is this threak different from the conservative business dress threak?
Will you recognize something as good taste if it is not your style/taste?

1. It's a fresh start so let's not clutter it with crap. Also, this threak can be less about business.

2. I will do my best but will likely fail from time to time.

3. Agree with baron about the tie. I thought you only wore navy ties??

I will say this once and then I intend never to address the issue again.

This is not the fit critique thread. I don't have the time, inclination, nor a professional photographer on staff to take static poses that show my clothes without a ripple. All the pics of myself will be taken by me with a bent arm and hence the jacket askew. Please pay attention to the color and fabric combinations, which is the point.

There's nothing here about bespoke fabric selection. This may be of interest to you, but it's a derailment. There's another thread for it. Or are you just carving out a sub-subforum?

 

[Manton]

If you're asking for a ruling from me, I don't mind a digression on what makes a tasteful blazer.

 

[Manton]



My beginner-ish take was 0520 was sufficiently blue to make a BlazerSuit, but the grey/blue of 0577 was more appropriate to a summer suit? 

Let me put it this way. If I could only have one, I would not want it to be 0520. Once I have a true navy, then 0520 is a nice addition.

 

[in stitches]



If you're asking for a ruling from me, I don't mind a digression on what makes a tasteful blazer.

it certainly is the most relevant digression this thread has had to date.

 

[sugarbutch]



If you're asking for a ruling from me, I don't mind a digression on what makes a tasteful blazer.

I withdraw my objection...

 

[sugarbutch]

 

[edmorel]

The top button, showing through the lapel, not sure why it bothers me so much as I am usually not anal rimshot but it does. You may need to have them remove it, press the lapels, and sew it back on, if it bothers you.

 

[bboysdontcryy]

^ I was going to make the exact remark. I'm really curious though, why this 3 (not rolled) 2 lapel is so popular in the US. I've seen it on a few blazers hanging on a rack at Poole, and when I asked the cutter, he said it's an American trad. I inquired into the reason and he didn't really know. I do know, however, it's on tweed coats etc so one can button it up and flip up the lapels for warmth.

 

[DocHolliday]



The top button, showing through the lapel, not sure why it bothers me so much as I am usually not anal rimshot but it does. You may need to have them remove it, press the lapels, and sew it back on, if it bothers you.

Looks like a nipple.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



Looks like a nipple.

A particularly low one.

 

[in stitches]



Looks like a nipple.

horribly misplaces, but yes, indeed it does.

EDIT - DAMN YOU bboysdontcryy!

 

[DocHolliday]

Love is required whenever he's hired, it comes just before the kill.

 

[FlaneurNYC]



^ I was going to make the exact remark. I'm really curious though, why this 3 (not rolled) 2 lapel is so popular in the US. I've seen it on a few blazers hanging on a rack at Poole, and when I asked the cutter, he said it's an American trad. I inquired into the reason and he didn't really know. I do know, however, it's on tweed coats etc so one can button it up and flip up the lapels for warmth.

You piqued my curiosity:

This photo of General Ulysses S. Grant shows how the unused top button hole on a 3/2 jacket got it's start. Grant wears his tunic style coat open at the neck, revealing a shirt and tie, and creating what we know as a lapel. Perhaps we should refer to this look in nerdy menswear parlance as "18 x 5 (9 roll 5) undarted double breasted front with natural shoulders".

The style of having a three button coat "rolled" to the center became a noted detail of American menswear in the middle of the twentieth century. Brooks Brothers, as with so many things in American menswear, was right at the center of it. This vintage Brooks Brothers suit has essentially four evenly space button holes, with the second from bottom the focal point. More modern ones have three button holes spaced roughly from just below the belt to just below the chest.

http://anaffordablewardrobe.blogspot.com/2012/09/reader-questions-3-to-32.html

 

[emptym]



what do all these guys have against socks?

Probably the heat and humidity of HK, in part at least. I bet they're wearing those hidden loafer socks.