whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    Do the cognescenti regard patch pockets as essential? I know they are very popular here, but do people regard a blazer with flapped pockets as wrong?
     
  2. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    Do you wear pattered cotton poplin under your Tweeds?
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    FTFY, though I don't have one like this (unless you count linen hopsack)
     
  4. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes. Often, though OCBDs are the most common. I only have two brushed cotton shirts, one of which is an identical replacement of a worn-out one, so those are probably in third place.
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Not wrong, per se, but patch pockets clearly delineate it as an odd jacket, as opposed to one belonging to a suit. Also, if you do flap pockets, you have to give up on the double-stitching as well. That leaves only the buttons to distinguish, which means you need to go metal or MoP to clearly signal the jacket is a blazer. I find that option less versatile. Also, with the patch pockets, I can always switch to blazer-exclusive buttons later if I like. It doesn't work the other way around.
     
  6. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I admire your faith in bespoke, something you share with Vox. But even if I disregard all the horrible custom and semi-custom stuff that's overrun the forum, the tailors in my parts make terribly dowdy clothes for aged businessmen. Low gorge, low notch, a cut so voluminous it might as well be RTW. As such, I think focusing on fit at the exclusion of cut and style is a terrible mistake.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013
  7. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    What is CMT? I still think $2k for a sportcoat is reasonable. I have seen some MTM coats go for $1500.
     
  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    But this could lead to a jacket with a patch breast pocket and flapped hip pockets . . . a strange beast on the UWS.
     
  9. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    How much is the retail price for a Rubinacci or NSM? [​IMG]
     
  10. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

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    This is something I've struggled with. Atlanta is chalk full of the tailors you describe. Sure they'll say that they can do a natural shoulder with chest drape and a nipped waist, but I'd rather not gamble on it. Adding insult to injury, a place like Mashburn is too over-styled. Surrounded on both sides with no safe play.

    While I admire those on the forum capable of maintaining relationships with overseas or out-of-town tailors, I know (from a cost and time standpoint) this isn't a possibility for me. So I'm left ready to step out, but with no real options. I'm sure I'll just pull the trigger on a local guy, but the uncertainty of the result always has me second-guessing myself.
     
  11. Lovelace

    Lovelace Senior member

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    I do it myself, but it never seems quite right. Poplin seems too refined for Tweed.

    Acorn do some nice brushed cottons. I should order some.
     
  12. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Really? I have several for summer. PRL makes an unconstructed one in linen called the "Princeton Soft" It is near perfect and is no doubt a copy of a classic trad model his buyers found (I commend people to ebay and Saks to hunt some down). It also has lapped seams, which I left out of the specs. I also have a bunch of fresco suits made up the same way from Chipp2/Winston Tailors.
     
  13. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's what I use. I am sorry I don't recall the line names or I would tell you which I have.
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's true, bespoke is a slow, pricey process. Can't change that. But for long-term planners, the time shouldn't be a problem. You don't need anything right now. Cost is another matter--but I suspect many can afford more than they think when they consider all their more frivolous purchases.


    Nothin' wrong with poplin and tweed together. With shirtings, the pattern and color are what really define.
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Wait, so that we're clear, we're talking about one jacket, with a breast pocket that is a patch, and hip pockets that are simply welted, flapped pockets, as on a suit? If so, yes, I'm having a hard time fathoming it.
     

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