whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    House style is a thing of marginal difference relative to fit and features. I'd take a well-fit Huntsman over a so-so-fit Rubinacci any day.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  2. Thanks SF (a new me)

    Thanks SF (a new me) Senior member

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    @Foo's guideline , my current blazer failed miserably, although it fits me very well.
     
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  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If they could exercise that restraint, they could look great in RTW. There's no shortage of blazers, even at discount prices.

    If they can't manage that, well ...
     


  4. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    The thing of it is, the Zen analogy applies. You have to develop the muscle memory yourself. No shortcuts.
    Someone could tell you a playbook of what to do, but almost no one (we are too haughty) would be willing to submit to it wholesale.
    And even if you did, could you embody these newfound "correct" clothes? Or would you be completely out of your own skin in somebody else's ideas?
    No, we have to learn to embody it. RDiaz will be familiar with a Spanish proverb: Mono vestido de seda mono se queda. (A monkey dressed in silk stays a monkey, viz., you can dress them up, but you can't take them out, or something along those lines.)
    First you have to learn how to evolve from an ape.

    All the same, I like your laundry list for a blazer.
     


  5. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Yup, but considering two equally well-fitting coats, I don't really like the Spanish school of tailoring. If I were to spend big bucks on one of the good tailors here, I'd rather look somewhere else - I love Steed's silhouette, for example. Problem is, I don't think I will ever be able to afford a Steed jacket. Their MTM, well, maybe...
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I don't believe such rules exist. If it were so easy to do, people like Rubinacci wouldn't be making loads advising on these kinds of decisions.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Diaz, I have heard that about Spanish tailoring. Still, why not give it a shot? Foo does have a point about fit v. cut. Also, you might be able to get them to make changes on the margins.

    Finally, since you are a Spaniard in Spain, no harm in looking the part, eh?
     


  8. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    So NSM would start at 2k for a suit? That is actually very reasonable. It looks like they come to NYC every few months.

    Edited because I realized the November date was past, not in the future.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  9. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I thought it was closer to $2k for a SC, and I believe that is CMT.

    Still, the prices are very reasonable. I've been tempted for quite some time to take the plunge.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  10. Thanks SF (a new me)

    Thanks SF (a new me) Senior member

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    one of my biggest regret (obviously before SF) was a Bespoke opportunity in London; when I was single and before having to pay for kids college. I always thought it was beyond my means, due to buying shitty stuff, but knowing what I know now, smart buying and saving...although I'm slowly planning for a comeback
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    But finding "two equally well-fitting coats" is no easy thing--particularly on a limited budget. For the price you're talking, I'd look for the guy who can give me the best fit possible, and forget about house style.


    Dude, he makes the same jacket for everybody: notched lapels, three-roll-two, double vents, and patch pockets plus double stitching if no matching trousers. It's not rocket science. Mariano's advice on style only comes into play when you start doing crazy stuff outside the realm of normalcy. Like my overcoat. For wardrobe staples, his contribution is not styling, but overseeing the fitting process.
     


  12. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't disagree with this as a general proposition, but I like to wear tweed in the city - pretty much every weekend - and that is when I get the most of my English-style shirts. I like the way patterned shirts and patterned tweeds go together, and while I sometimes wear Jermyn Street style shirts with suits in the English City Gent way, more often, I wear them with tweeds.
    Like today - I am wearing a fancy check brushed cotton shirt (six colors on white ground) with a gun club sportcoat (the original LL Gun Club), a cream cashmere/silk sweater vest and a black grenadine tie. While the brushed cotton of the shirt makes it not for suits, even if it were in regular cotton, I would be more likely to wear it with a tweed sportcoat (also, it has a button down collar, but the point is still the same)
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    But you are advanced and not to be mimicked.
     


  14. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Guess so. That is why I wanted to give it a shot with my current tailor if I am convinced by more samples of his work. He has fitted me for MTM already and kinda knows what I need in terms of fit (silhouette and styling not so much), so it may work, and at a good price. I think I've even convinced him to remove shoulder pads from future commissions (something he was very stubborn with), so heck, I may be on to something [​IMG]
     


  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    FTFY
     


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