Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.
I had to institute a -based score system and diagram how to stuff a pocket square. All by myself.
Count me as another one for double cuffs with everything...
I'm disappointed that SB didn't hand out gray beards.
One time only...
But, I forgot NOBD's from yesterday: 1.9 (slight deduction for too-skinny suit trousers, at least as shown in the pic)
No one was making an effort to really hand out solid advise here. The scoring system was great because everyone likes to get points and see something tangible for their efforts. I hope more of the old timers start taking a hand in this so those of us who think we are getting better can have some real feedback.
Just a couple for to rip apart, I'm here to learn so any constructive criticism is welcome. I'm on the right.
Peter Millar stopped by yesterday doing a road trip visiting haberdasheries in the southeast (Myself on the right and my coworker on the left)
Today with a new Luciano Barbera ca$hmere knit tie:
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Desperately needs black shoes.
They do look skinny, don't they? I noticed it after I took the pic.
Spoiler: Perhaps I can get the 0.1 back through this gif of the same trousers...
Or perhaps not...
Is that a 4" wide knit tie???
More like 3.5", and it has a pointy end, too. (I know, I know. That's what she said...)
Yeah it sure is a big one, you could land a bloody jumbo jet on that thing!
Excellent--except for the black shoes. Great square execution. I'm not taking this into account for scoring, but since this is bespoke, I'd be remiss not to point out a couple of things: the waist nipping is rather accute, and all that empty chest space is calling for a top row of vestigial buttons. Both are easy fixes. Otherwise, the tailor (Steed) has done a wonderful job. Some would say the sleeves could be shorter, but you are still showing a sliver of cuff. So it's a matter of personal preference. Thank ou for showing how to do a cream square right! Folks, this is how effective and easy it can be. Also, notice how it's stuffed. This score would likely be a notch higher if not for the shoes. Final score:
I'm only judging the right side. Is that a slate blue jacket over grey trousers? Or are they both the same? I can't make it out on my screen. Makes a difference. Also, your square looks sloppy. If that's linen, you need to be sharper and crisper with your folds. If its silk, you need to not fold it. Final score:
Glad to see no crazy square, but this is a good example of when a white linen square is no good. The white shirt and square both cut the eye and immediately strike me as paired. Did you read my blog post on pattern matching? Final score:
Really solid effort. Great overall actually. Good job with the square. I hope others can see the benefit. I would just tuck it in a bit more. Great pattern-matching--whether you read my blog entry or not, you certainly wound up following the principles. Everyone, note the density variation. If you don't know what that means, read my article. Congrats. I'd be proud to wear this outfit. Final score:
Better with the square than without. I'm judging with. Good matching between tie and shirt. This is close to the right way to wear a white square. Pick up on white accents rather than another giant sheet of white. It would be stronger and more effective if the shirt foreground were blue and and the stripes were white, though. Final score: :
Suit or jacket? If jacket, you get a one notch deduction. If suit, this is decent--with the qualification that the colors are obviously not accurate in the photo. Pattern matching is on the mark. If there is a better photo, this could merit a notch up. Final score:
The solid blue/blue/blue of your shirt, tie and jacket sharply blocks off your top half from your bottom. Also, the tie needs to be darker for this to work. The square is rather jarring. Not only have you singled out with its color scheme, but it is also the only thing in the entire outfit with a pattern to it. Really punches you in the face. Final score:
You really need to punch up the contrast and saturation variation. Everything inhabits the same muted, in-the-middle range. Final score:
[/spoiler] Textures are all too close. Also, that's a weird looking sweater--looks like a melted crewneck or an underdeveloped vee. To execute this right, you need it to be a normal vee and to go deeper. The sweater would also look better in a different color, like a caramel tan. In blue, you've blocked off everything between your jacket lapels as separate from the rest of the outfit. Final score:
Single pattern in tie stands out too much. I realize there is technically a striped pattern in the shirt, but it is so faint and fine that it comes across more as a texture. Using only one pattern is often a problem because it tends to distinguish itself too much. Final score:
SquareFAIL. Pattern density is too close to your tie, and simply picking up so obviously and exclusively on the blue in your shirt and tie guarantees failure. Final score:
Not bad. Good pattern matching. Need to stuff that square better, though. It looks a mess. Final score:
First outfit is not good. All solid colors, all smooth textures. Final score: Second outfit is better, but your pocket square is sort of haywire. The way it is stuffed results in a pattern density too close to your tie. I'd arrange it so more of the olive green and gold are showing, and with less blocked off blue. Also, it is too messy. Final score:
SquareFAIL. Pattern density is way too dead-on with your shirt and jacket. Which means your shirt and jacket are also too close. And, whatever the square is, it looks bad folded. Red color is too direct a connection with your tie. White foreground too direct with your shirt. Final score:
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
First outfit is squareFAIL. That green is really, really jarring and random. Could easily be notched up two points with a different square. Final score: Second outfit is much better. I can get close to living with the white shirt in this instance, but it would look much, much better in blue. The bottom line is that everything else strikes a more countrified note (very earthy and autumnal), so the white jars with its brightness and sharpness. Pattern-matching is good. Colors, other than the shirt, are good. Nice square-stuffing technique. Pains me to not give you a full three- score, but it's a close call. Final score:
Overall, I think you guys are making good progress. A lot more outfits solidly in the range. Some of you have shown a strong competence with pattern matching. But there is still a lot of squareFAIL and reliance on color-block grey/blue.
Did you read these? I thought they'd be helpful.
On pattern matching.
On grey-blue and blue-blue outfits.
On stuffing squares.
Thanks for the pointers!
On my outfit, Foo has noticed the exact reason why I don't really like pairing my two blue OCBD's with the green tweed suit. When I do, the whole ensemble looks lifeless. It did look better with the fine stripe shirt I posted previously because it was lighter and more interesting, IMO. I guess a darker/more vivid tie, or a lighter hanky would have helped too, am I right?
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