whnay.'s good taste thread

[Ivar]



Well, maybe the argument isn't as much if it has been done in the past, more does it look good.

Mafoofan made that argument a couple of pages back:

I said suggesting that navy, charcoal, and black trousers are staples of classic menswear indicates an ignorance of classic menswear.

I like dark grey trousers with a navy blazer - its as dressed up as you can be without wearing a suit.

Dark grey and navy make an excellent pairing in a subdued, minimalist way. More broadly, while I would agree that mid-grey pants are more versatile (whatever that's worth ...), I can definitely think of situations where dark grey pants would be a better -- sharper, sexier, more urbane -- choice.

 

[Sander]



Here's my poor man's Beppe / low contrast blazer ensemble.

Not seen navy pindot accent socks and G&G Hove in dark brown.

I don't hold this out as a sterling example but I like to think this is an acceptable instance of a standard and tasteful look.

Very, very good. Only thing I'd change is the tie. While it fits wonderfully colorwise, I think it's a little too shiny and "formal". A repp would have been great imho. But that's really absolute nitpicking.

Regarding the odd charcoal pants discussion a couple of pages back:

Odd charcoal pants have been worn by many great dressers over the years. Anyone who professes otherwise either hasn't done his homework or has bad taste in role models. Two examples should suffice:

Sinatra and Davis in 1960.

Moore in 1985.

In both examples light grey odd jackets are being worn, making mid grey a less attractive option. If the jackets were any other color, mid-grey would have been better imho.

 

[mktitsworth]



Very, very good. Only thing I'd change is the tie. While it fits wonderfully colorwise, I think it's a little too shiny and "formal". A repp would have been great imho. But that's really absolute nitpicking.
In both examples light grey odd jackets are being worn, making mid grey a less attractive option. If the jackets were any other color, mid-grey would have been better imho.

Agreed about the tie. The solid twill comes off as similar in scale to the micro stripe of the shirt. Additionally, neither the jacket nor the pants is very heavy on texture so that, at least in pictures, it all looks about the same. The best way I can think of to describe it is that there's plenty of harmony, but the melody is subdued if not absent.

This isn't to say that it's bad though.

 

[Slewfoot]

WTF? I go away for a little while and there's 150+ posts? No thank you. As the wise Lt. Murtaugh once said:

 

[EFV]

This is awkward. Admittedly not as well executed Cantabrigian, but almost eerily close in palette.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[mktitsworth]

That beard on the first shot made me think I was remembering the wrong person.

 

[aravenel]

Canta, that's a nice fit. Love all the texture.

 

[in stitches]

Cantabrigian - great looking fit. not sure who you were talking about, but i am not butthurt in the least, and i am still unsure about my fit. but i think we can leave it for now. i have what to think about.

In any case I think we can all agree that incivility is in extremely poor taste?

without question.

WTF? I go away for a little while and there's 150+ posts? No thank you. As the wise Lt. Murtaugh once said:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

i believe the kids are using this one now-a-days.

 

[TheFoo]

Spoiler

Cantabrigian, based on the close-up of the trousers, I'd say they looked more medium grey and nothing like charcoal. But obviously, what with lighting and cameras and computer screens, it is much more likely whatever you say it is. That said, the jacket plus the trousers in that photo look quite good together--because of the contrast. If the pants were in fact much darker, the outfit gets markedly worse. So, I'm not seeing how it proves charcoal makes more sense than light or medium grey in such instances.

Also, everyone else should notice that the reason why C.'s outfit looks good is because he followed so many of the classic menswear "rules" that used to be better understood around here. There is nothing particularly innovative, rebellious, creative, or earth-shattering about what he's put together. Yet, it's better that way.

I find the notion of trying to make an odd jacket outfit more formal by making it more suit-like very odd. Generally, I think it's better to embrace whatever it is you've committed to doing. Conviction, even if not perfectly on the mark, is better than confusion when it comes to style.

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

For those new to this arena, here's my take on why Cantabrigians outfit looks good:

1) The odd jacket is obviously an odd jacket; it's made from a more textured fabric, and has casual details like patch pockets and MoP buttons;

2) The shirt has a white ground and thin pale blue stripes, which is suitably casual. Also, the stripes provide one prominent pattern to prevent monotony;

3) The tie, while solid, has an earthy brown ground, which fits the casual aesthetic; and

4) The trousers, while dark gray, provide sufficient contrast with the shirt and jacket.

CEP

P.S. This is why I have to agree with Foo that jackets and shorts do not work well together. At all. You end up mixing pieces of hugely varying levels of formality within a single ensemble (jackets rate high on the formal scale, shorts are completely informal). It's the same readon why an orphaned suit jacket with jeans looks bad. If you can get ahold of it, Vox's essay on Coherence in Dressing was without doubt, the most helpful piece I have read in a long time.

 

[Sander]

Where can this essay be found?

 

[aravenel]



Where can this essay be found?

Would also be interested in reading--the links I found from Googling seemed to be dead.

Sigh, Vox, we miss you

 

[msulinski]

I can't speak to the OneShirt or OneShoe idea, and I don't know that I agree with either. I happen to own several pairs of shoes, and was trying to recommend something that worked in a business casual context.

 

[TheFoo]



I can't speak to the OneShirt or OneShoe idea, and I don't know that I agree with either. I happen to own several pairs of shoes, and was trying to recommend something that worked in a business casual context.

There is no OneShirt. Solid blue shirts are just the backbone of my shirt wardrobe. The OneShoe also isn't worn absolutely all the time. I also wear black punch caps when I need or want to be extra business formal. And, obviously, I wear different shoes with my dinner suit.

 

[ColdEyedPugilist]

Texture and / or a prominent pattern makes a big difference in whether or not an orphaned suit jacket can pass muster as a blazer or odd jacket. I understand your point about the casual navy blazer suit (I have one myself) but remember, we are speaking of a garment with deliberate detailing to increase its versatility as both a suit jacket (worn with the matching pants) and an odd jacket with non-matching trousers.

Anyway guys, can someone friggin post a #%*+=!!! fit please, there's too damn many words, and it's making my head hurt.