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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You curse it now, but you should pray that you keep it.
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Dude, then burn that jacket for a start. It is the equivalent of gibberish.


    Didn't see a white shirt . . . I rescind everything I said.


    Doesn't crêpe fold like shit too? Maybe you guys aren't understanding what I mean by not taking a fold well. No matter how thick the silk, it will not hold a sharp crease like linen. It will look rough, rumpled, disheveled, etc. That's how I was able to spot yours, even in such low resolution. It's an eyesore, truly.
     
  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I have one. I kinda like it.

    It's white and I'll wear it with a heavy blazer or a flannel suit. It's formal enough for either of those occasions. I like the texture and it's ever-so slightly warmer for those rare occasions where I'm somewhat dressed up but outside for a bit.

    If I got another, it would be blue-white striped.



    I think that this is an instance in which etymology isn't a very good guide to current useage.

    The casualness of an open collared shirt is more than enough to overwhelm the difference in formality between collar styles.

    I generally dislike seeing collar points. So unless you have a GDLstyle cutaway buttondown, I actually prefer a spread collar in this instance.

    Provided, of course, it's a spread collar that's firm enough to not crumple or fall down.
     
  4. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I've thought about getting some oxford shirts as a spread collar (somewhat point though for balance) to wear with suits and ties. Why not?

    Foo - you mentioned before about checked oxfords. I have some from some fabrics Peter Lee has lying around. They are great.
     
  5. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Well, I'm sure you hear it a lot, but be glad it's not the other way around. Would rather struggle to gain weight than keep it off...

    Edit: SB beat me to it! +1 I guess?
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  6. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I'm not a big fan of them. These are the skinniest lapels I own, and they are the only skinny lapels I own. I much prefer something that plays to the symmetries of the jacket.

    How many calories are you taking in per day? 2500-3k is what you need just to maintain that weight from what I understand.


    :nodding: Once it's gone 'tis nigh upon impossible to get back.
     
  7. Coronaeus

    Coronaeus Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies to my shirt queries.

    I guess the source of my question concerning possible "formality" differences between solid and striped OCBDs comes from the fact that I find it more difficult to pair a striped OCBD with the odd jackets I own, than I do with solids. Because my odd jackets tend to have texture and pattern, I worry that striped OCBDs will clash unflatteringly, especially when a tie is added to the mix.

    I'd love to see good examples of a striped OCBD and tie with a textured/patterned odd jacket if anyone has some to share.
     
  8. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I think you were on the right track already and wouldn't go out of your way to wear a striped OCBD just to wear one.

    A prominently patterned sportscoat generally calls for a quiet everything else - solid shirt, solid tie. But you don't want the accesories to be too formal which is why some texture is nice - hence oxford cloth / knit ties.
     
  9. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    I have four! :) White, light blue (royal oxford), blue-white striped and blue-white gingham. Versatile shirts for me.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  10. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I think one of the big reasons why biz caz sucks so much is because mainstream retailers haven't gotten beyond suit-appropriate shirts / shoes. Or if they have, they haven't done it well.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    Oh, please!

    "Odd" trousers by definition are most likely to be navy, dark grey, or charcoal, because the trousers are "odd" when they are paired with a jacket for which they were not designed, as opposed to cashmere striped morning trousers which appear to be "odd" or contrasting with a morning coat, but are in fact constructed to be worn as an integral part of morning wear. And so too, a buff waist coat is not "odd" when worn with morningwear, but it is "odd" when worn under a navy suit or tweed sport coat.

    Apparently, you are just making these definitions as you go along.

    Take away navy and charcoal or black trousers from a wardrobe and any man, who wishes to camouflage a larger than average posterior, would be near powerless to do so.

    This type of dogma is not only useless, but ridiculous and bordering on an unhealthy vanity, as if all should dress to your standards despite it being a terrible look for them.

    Navy and charcoal trousers paired with a lighter sports jacket are IDEAL for a larger pear shaped body, which is now a common body type given the typical sedentary Western lifestyle.

    FYI: it is a great look if you are shorter in stature as well, since the darker trousers will make your legs look longer if paired with dark shoes and even a dark vest or sweater under a lighter sport coat which will make your upper body seem proportionately larger and taller.

    For the same reason, a lighter camel hair jacket or grey tweed overcoat would be better for a shorter than average person than navy or black cashmere, but why you accept this idea for an overcoat and put it aside for a sport jacket, is something only you understand.

    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
    2 people like this.
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Navy, charcoal and black are exactly the odd trousers you should never own. Particularly black. And a black cashmere overcoat is even a possibility you'd entertain? Honestly, it sounds like you draw your sensibility from late 90's Banana Republic.

    This post is the must egregious piece of defiantly ignorant nonsense I've seen here in a long time.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
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  13. zeero3

    zeero3 Senior member

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    :foo: While we have your attention, I've been doing a ton of research for my first tweed/tweedish odd jacket. Any suggestions for the pattern of a first odd jacket that would be most versatile and tasteful? I was planning on dark brown herringbone (with intentions of a medium brown w red windowpane to follow).....
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Wait, you're a troll aren't you? Well congrats--you got me.
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Based on that description, I'd go for the latter over the former. Tweed is an inherently bolder and more casual cloth. Embrace it and don't bother trying to make it more subtle. The great thing about a classic, boldly patterned tweed is that it is so damned easy to pair with things. The more barely-there hints of random colors in it the better.
     
  16. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    I don't know that that would be a good first odd jacket--it's hard to wear a distinctive jacket like that often without it looking like, well, you only have one jacket.

    How about a classic herringbone in brown/tan or grey?

    Edit: Not sure if this is OPs first odd jacket or first tweed jacket. If it's the latter, then sure, go for the FU tweed.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013
  17. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I probably have 30, a ton of plain blues, whites, stripes of various shades, even checks. I am surprised there is even any sort of debate about using oxford cloth for a non-BD shirt. I could see maybe a little bit of a debate if someone suggested French cuffs... But a spread collar oxford shirt is now matter for disapproval ? :confused:
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    I've lost count of things disapproved.
     
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  19. zeero3

    zeero3 Senior member

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    That's exactly one of the reasons why I was considering the more sedate option--because it is my first "keeper" odd jacket (I'm trying to get rid of an abomination of a light grey herringbone that struggles to breathe as a versatile odd jacket).
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I dunno, think an "FU tweed" is exactly the way tweed should be. I'm not talking some crazy purple and green and orange dreamcoat. He mentioned a red on brown check, which is a pretty established staple.


    Well, it's definitely an oddity, no?
     

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