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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    That's actually a Guards coat. I have one. It's more formal than an Ulster, which typically has patch pockets and is made from heavy tweed (I believe it originated from the countrysides of Ireland).

    Not that it really matters. There are some archetypes for classic coats, but generally speaking, the field is very fluid.

    Anyway, I wear my Guards coat sometimes in the city, but not really outside of that.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Caustic Man: I think the tie would work well with conservative worsted or woolen flannel. I don't think you need a wool tie with this jacket, though. The contrast of texture with a silk (a less shiny silk, to be sure) would be great. The hank is not to my taste, but leaving that aside, it would work better with a more conservative/city look. I wouldn't pair it with that tie under just about any circumstance, though.

    To finish on a positive note, I like the color combination. Even in the same colors, if that hank were in a wool/silk blend (sorry, Stitchy) instead of that juicy silk, it would be good.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ah, never been good with distinguishing overcoat types. Seems to me whether you're talking Ulster, guard, polo, etc., they all meld into each other. Depending on the details, it's often hard to say if a coat is one thing or another.

    Here I guess you are definitely right, though. It does not have the Ulster lapels and collar, nor does it have the cuffed sleeves or patch pockets typical of Ulster overcoats. If this coat had the downward pointing lapels of an Ulster though, what would it be? An Ulster with atypical pockets and sleeves, or a guard's coat with a funny lapel?
     
  4. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    well, everyone went all serious on me. i meant, i dont see the problem looking like a costume as opposed to freezing your ass off.

    but now that i see the subsequent posts, of course i meant that i think in all seriousness it would not be a costume-y issue.

    :hide:
     
  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Yes, there are archetypes, but possibly only in theory (with few exceptions, maybe, like the Polo, which really does have a certain look). In practice though, many of these details get mish mashed together and formed into new coats, which we often don't know what to call.

    It's been like that since each coat's invention. Count d'Orsay is said to have popularized the paletot when he was caught out in the rain one day. He spotted some sailor wearing a long, heavy waistcoat; befriended him; bought his coat; and then left him in the cold. The next day, when he went to Hyde Park, as many dandies did at the time, the other men swooned over his "innovation." They called him a genius, and then went to have similar coats made. Except they had them made in an unimaginable number of varieties. Today, I think we still have a working definition for a paletot, but that doesn't mean in practice there's one and only one design. Each thing can look quite different and still be considered a paletot. It's not like navy blazers, for example, which have a more "hard" definition.

    If Costi's coat had an Ulster collar, I would personally still call it a Guards coat (maybe a Guards coat with an Ulster collar?). I think the material and welted pockets still doesn't make it rustic/ casual enough to be an Ulster.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2013
  6. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I was hoping you would chime in. All good points. I hadn't thought of a blended PS.
     
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    A great suggestion! Will try.
     
  8. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Too monochromatic Stitch. White shirt doesn't make sense in this context.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. NOBD

    NOBD Senior member

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    It does in the monochromatic context, which was the intended context.
     
    4 people like this.
  11. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    A robin egg blue or lilac shirt would take it to a different and I believe more attractive level, but then it would not be mono-chromatic or maybe, more correctly a-chromatic.

    The severity of an a-chromatic black and white composition has it's purpose, no doubt.
     
  12. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    thanks for the feedback. i know NOBD really said this already, but to add some more context, im not sure if you had been reading WAYWRN before your latest return, but this was intentionally monochromatic. last time i did it with a gray striped shirt and the consensus was to go for white. so i did. and i think it is much better in this monochromatic vibe.

    here is the full fit, not that it makes a difference per say.

    [​IMG]


    thanks! :nodding:


    correct. blue may have been more interesting, not better, just more interesting, but then it would not have been what i was trying to accomplish, which i think with the help of SB and NOBD, i accomplished quite well. if i may say so. ;)
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2013
  13. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    it is ugly

    it made it worse


    a light blue
    would still have placed it
    in the monochromatic spectrum
    it would have been better than this

    but overall it is still pretty bad.

    shirt needs to be
    a beefier fabric
    to better compliment
    the less formal tie
    the poplin you have on
    does not

    and that coat
    (you need to kill it with fire)
    seems to be of a weight
    more for sping
    and clashes badly
    (in terms of pattern and weight)
    to the tie.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2013
    2 people like this.
  14. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    T4

    while i always enjoy
    seeing you
    here
    i still have
    to disagree
    i do not think
    it is ugly

    you have made
    me shed so
    many
    tears of
    blood

    but i guess
    that is
    what you
    were hoping
    for

    we can still
    be teh
    freindz?
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    ^
    <3
    always

    while i hungrily
    lick teh salty
    and bitter
    glistening
    droplets
     
    3 people like this.
  16. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    IS, why do you always have to be friends with everyone?

    But fwiw, he is your friend here, as in he gives good advice. I wouldn't necessarily burn the jacket, but he seems to be right about the seasonal inappropriate...ness. Whatever the right ending to that word is.

    Also, I hope "per say" is not really an English (or American) expression.
     
  17. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    You did very well.

    I actually have used the same idea for informal evening wear upon occasion of informal gatherings and events, even to the point of wearing black tie with suitable waistcoat or cummerbund and formal shirt with a fine black and white cashmere herringbone jacket I wear with black trousers. In effect, my dinner jacket is the black and white cashmere sport coat with a herringbone half the width you would normally expect on say a Harris tweed, although I do not wear tuxedo pants with silk ribbon, but just black worsted wool trousers with tiniest pattern of interest imaginable.

    I always get compliments when I when the rig.

    As something to consider, I have noticed that with lighter toned sportcoats, such as yours above and my black and white one, one presents a cleaner look or silhouette when tucking the pocket flaps to one's besom pockets. The shadows created by the flaps seem to be too much contrast for the tone of the jacket and disharmonious. Just an observation.

    Well done!
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    T4 is dead-on.

    You guys need to be more willing to learn and less "but I like it."
     
    4 people like this.
  19. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    =)

    enjoy teh feast
    but teh liver is
    mine

    for now


    why do you care and why are you butting in. i do not have to be friends with everyone, but i enjoy being friendly with people whose conversation i enjoy.

    as to this specific exchange, i already am friends with T4, that comment i made had context that he clearly understood. i was not literally asking a person with whom i am already friendly with if the fact that we do not share the same opinion on my jacket negates any previous friendship. i got that. he got that. you really did not need to get involved.

    and of course, i appreciate his advice, as i do appreciate all the advice i receive. and while i agree with some of his technical points, i still think the fit was nice, and not incongruent.
     
  20. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    Hm, when I said you don't have to be friends with everyone, I didn't mean me.
     

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