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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This fails the test of good taste--largely on the grounds of confused formality and context. You mention the French cuffs, but really they aren't the issue. They can be worn with odd jackets just fine. The real problem is everything else. Each of your jacket, trousers and tie look like they belong with a suit. Sure, you can argue that the light brown glen plaid of your jacket connotes a casual air, but it is nonetheless a pattern typically reserved for a full suit, albeit a more countrified one. The lack of other casualizing features doesn't help (no patch pockets, no double stitching, etc.). Charcoal odd trousers are odd because the color, again, is far more typical of a city suit. The tie is not as huge an error, but it does lean heavily toward the more business formal side of things and so doesn't improve the situation.

    Beyond all that, the colors also don't work because the outfit is too blocked out; there is no visual synergy between any of the three "regions" (shirt/tie, jacket, pants). One easy improvement would be to change the tie for something not blue.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
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  2. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Fair enough. Would lighter grey trousers have worked better?

    What would you suggest that I pair with this jacket to bring it together better?
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    trousers are definitely too dark. I don't mind the blueness of the tie, I just think the mini dot pattern is too "suity"
     
  4. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Thanks. Can definitely see the issue with the mini dots. Would a larger dot pattern have worked better? Or something like a solid navy grenadine?
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, lighter trousers would help.

    Does the jacket have a matching pair of trousers? That would be ideal. I would not wear a glen plaid jacket--particularly a plain, subtle one without an overcheck--on its own. It looks hopelessly orphaned. If you must, you need to add some bolder patterns and more integrated contrast so the outfit doesn't look so flat. You could try a white and light blue butcher stripe shirt, a maroon tie, and a silk or wool pocket square with earthy, autumn colors in it.
     
  6. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well I more than most differentiate ties for suits v. jackets. With the latter it tends to be only strips, knits and wools for winter and linen for summer. I basically never wear woven or printed silks with jackets and I will always reach for a solid knit over a grenadine.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think you need to ditch blue for the tie altogether. You need to seize every opportunity possible to make this outfit more casual if you must keep the jacket. Blue shirt plus sober blue tie is very business-oriented and urban.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Solid green knit would work with that.
     
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  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, definitely would.
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    I lol'ed
     
  11. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Thanks. No, it does not have matching trousers. I'm not sure I'd be comfortable wearing a full suit of light brown glen plaid anyways.

    I definitely see the trouser issue. Looking at it, not sure why I picked these trousers this morning, most of my trousers are a more mid grey anyways.

    Will give some of these suggestions a try :)
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What if you take care to qualify that you are a "classy" gentleman?
     
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  13. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Thanks Manton and mafoofan. Will definitely go back to the drawing board on this one.
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not to pick on you, but this comes up a lot on here. I don't understand the reasoning. If you weren't comfortable wearing a tuxedo, would it make it better to just wear the jacket?

    Glen plaid is just not an odd jacket pattern. It can be mitigated with a larger scale, bolder plaid, and an overcheck, but you don't have any of that going on.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  15. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    The light brown, especially in a pattern like that, seems very country to me, and wearing a full suit of that, especially in the city, seems a bit loud to me. Grey glen plaid? Love it, would definitely wear a suit of that. Not sure about brown though.

    I didn't see this coat as looking so orphaned--to me, the light brown plaid definitely looks like an odd jacket pattern. However, I do totally see what you mean about the mixing of country and city. Definitely room for improvement on this.
     
  16. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As a general matter, I prefer plaids for jackets to be larger in scale, louder in color, and that the jacket have some casual detailing like patch pockets and double edge stitching.
     
  17. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    For what it's worth, I actually do too. However, I haven't been at this too long, so I'm mostly still making do with what I have and plotting my next acquisitions :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Then you might be rom burgundy.

    Can someone confirm or deny the good taste of my fit today? Kthnx.
     
  19. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    First Manton took on windowpane odd jackets, now Foo is waging war on glen plaid. Solid grays are right out, of course. We're making noobs' lives easier by process of elimination.

    I'd agree that there are glen plaids that are obviously suiting. But these are mostly blue or gray and sedate. Brown glenplaid is, as always, a casual cloth. The case for it being primarily a suiting -- such as it is -- dates from a time when brown plaid suits were casualwear. These days, a sportcoat isn't all that casual, and the brown plaid suit is #menswear. Even now, after the peacocks have overrun the farm, it is far more common to see brown glen plaid as a sportcoat than a suit. Which makes sense when you consider the casual nature of the cloth. As such, I feel absolutely comfortable with the idea of glen plaid sportcoats.

    If a glen plaid looks too much like a suiting to be a sportcoat, that's a property of the specific cloth rather than the pattern as a whole.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
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  20. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Doc, even if it's brown, if a plaid is small scale, really distinc and not fuzzy, the wool is clear cut worsted, it's a suiting. I am thinking off the top of my head of the lovely brown plaid in Lesser tropical, which I would never recommend as a jacket.

    Then configure it flap/welt with an invisible picked edge and it's REALLY a suit coat.
     

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