Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.
How do you feel about smoked MOP?
perfect for linen, I wouldn't do it on a worsted
not this confusion again.
idk, i saw a whole bunch of navy worsted SCs in the RL store, mostly BL and PL, and they looked fantastic to me.
how do you feel about white MOP buttons on navy SC that have a more casual look, like crepes?
more word confusion. do you know what i am referring to, and what is your opinion?
as a matter of fact, here are pics.
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
It's just another Madder Monday
what is an ideal fall/winter blue blazer fabric if some of you are opposed to worsted?
hopsack (which is worsted but textured) or flannel
Lemme see if this qualifies...
Jacket = wool, shirt = oxford cotton, tie = wool, PS = silk
I know Foo in the past has said that flannel is a notch down on the formality scale. Could I get some more opinions? I would think it is equally formal for the winter/autumn season. Would a flannel suit be out of place for let's say a conservative interview?
I think it depends on the specific flannel in question. Worsted flannels dont look much different than your run-of-the-mill wool suiting and probably wouldnt be out of place in any CBD environment. On the other hand, I think worsted flannel is a waste of time, it lacks the fuzziness, body, texture and drape that makes (woolen) flannel so great. That said, I probably would steer clear of woolen flannel in a super CBD environment, definitely not for an interview, it isnt worth the risk. My woolen flannel has raised some eyebrows from clients, I think one asked if it was rabbit fur.
Edit: also, if you go "country" with flannel and add brown horn buttons and patch pockets (my preferred configuration), that makes it even less CBD.
This makes sense. Did your client at least ask if it was angora?
In addition to hopsack, I think the very heavy at the back of the HS and Minnis books could also work. It's 14oz but allows you some relief if you're in a very well heated room. It's fine in winter expecially since you'll always have an overcoat on when you're out in the wind.
Would pick a texture that works with the texture and finish of trousers you have. Not every cloth type looks right together.
I like heavier, wintery weight flannel for trousers or suits but think it doesn't work for a jacket. Just my association with the cloth. Navy flannel can be the worst offender as a lint magnet.
More and more cloth houses have hopsack in their books and in various textures. Some more refined than others. Have switched to this over worsteds.
Use a lot of textured, mill finished cloth for navy jackets
True. I'd add that a grey flannel is less CBD than a navy flannel, which doesn't give the same fuzzy impression as grey.
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