whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. Christopher Essex

    Christopher Essex Senior member

    Messages:
    434
    Likes Received:
    91
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2010
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    

    I have to concur. MC the past week or two has been extremely enjoyable, especially the contributions from the old-school posters of yore.

    My thanks to all involved.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    We really do owe it all to vox. If he hadn't doused himself in gasoline and lit a match like that Vietnamese monk or the Tunesian street vendor who kicked off the Arab Spring, none of this would be happening.
     
  3. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    9,420
    Likes Received:
    282
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2005
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I don't mind him being the sacrificial lamb....
     
  4. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

    Messages:
    294
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    May 30, 2011
    This poor n00b shall bite with his small wardrobe to see what can be improved.


    [​IMG]

    Forest green tie.
    [​IMG]

    Pardon bad square puff, it's a cream color.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    truth. tis a shame we lost him in the turmoil. hopefully his absence wont be too long lived.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012
  6. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Likes Received:
    1,911
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    
    Always two there are.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012
  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,699
    Likes Received:
    17,050
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Verniza: red shiny tie + two-tone watch = two strikes against good taste in my book
     
  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,397
    Likes Received:
    8,780
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I would add that the volume and color matching of squares needs some work.
     
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

    Messages:
    68,895
    Likes Received:
    31,016
    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2010
    Location:
    Charm City
    

    :tinfoil:
     
  10. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Senior member

    Messages:
    1,066
    Likes Received:
    923
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    

    Those are not the shoes and socks (or lack thereof) that I actually wear. Other than when I am taking pictures to post online (for which I keep the special wardrobe of shoes and socks to which you object), I wear only black or dark brown punch cap oxfords and solid color socks in gray, navy or brown to coordinate with my trousers. I never go sockless, except in pictures for StyleForum, even when I'm in the shower.
     
  11. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

    Messages:
    7,332
    Likes Received:
    1,418
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    
    Thanks M. I really appreciate your feedback on my and others' pics.

    The jacket is green if that changes anything. But I agree with you about the shirt in general. I remember your posting something about your dislike for patterned shirts that have a mostly white ground. I'm starting to come around to your position, but I think high contrast colors work well for me. Still, that shirt may not be best w/ coat and tie.

    I agree. He's able to take parts that, imho, don't always look great on their own and put them together into very pleasing wholes.
     
  12. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,699
    Likes Received:
    17,050
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    

    [​IMG] Y U no like my parts ?


    jk - thanks ;)
     
  13. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,807
    Likes Received:
    954
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    

    As someone new(ish) to going through my days in style I completely agree with this. I've taken away a lot of good ideas in addition to noting what not to do (no offense to anyone).

    Sometimes seeing what not to do is a better education.
     
  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Likes Received:
    2,807
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Unbelragazzo @ 143:

    The square sucks simply. The colors are not good and the pattern is worse. I’m with foo in disliking small figures on squares.

    Pic 1: I like the suit, I really do. It’s a cool casual suit. The tie sucks. Patterns should be smallish, for the most part, but at all events more uniform. If they look like those pretty telescope pictures of far off galaxy clusters

    [​IMG]

    don’t wear them. The shirt is good and the collar is excellent on you. A tasteful tie of the same color would be OK, but not great. Either a different color or a darker blue. Either way you need a totally unrelated square.

    Pic 2: I should like this but it’s not coming together for me. I generally love that type of tie. But what you have there is a very formal look, just about the most formal short of black tie: blue suit, white shirt, B/W/silver wedding tie. HOWEVER the BD collar wrecks it. Possibly if the suit were linen or a hairy flannel—something informal—then the BD collar would “go.” Possibly. Or if the tie were woolen and a little fuzzy. That collar is also not great. It looks “pinched.” You have too much roll, the buttons I think are too high and too far in.

    Pic 3: I like, good taste, even the square is nice with that little hint of border. Looks haphazardly stuffed in there, which is always good. Collar looks low and sloppy, a spread that wide should not have tie space. Your collar with the white jacket is perfect. (now you’re going to tell me it’s the same shirt.)

    Edmorel at 144

    Macro comment to the gallery. This is an example of a common Italian look that one does not see much outside the upper and professional classes in Italy and to a lesser extent France. The hallmarks are: 1) a tweedish but soft and smooth jacket, i.e., more surface interest than a worsted but much less than a Shetland or Harris; 2) a spread collar broadcloth shirt; 3) nearly always a solid navy tie, either grenadine or knit; 5) gray pants (yes I realize he is not always wearing gray pants).

    The point is, this is different than what Americans and English dressers are used to. In America we would tend to wear shirts like that only with suits and we would wear BD collars in oxford cloth or something textured with a jacket. In England, they would either wear a suit or a really countrified jacket but they would find these neither fish nor fowl. In America the ties would tend to be repp or maybe madder and in England wool for the cooler months. But what Ed is doing is very “Continental.”

    OK, one by one:

    1. Just push the square down and you’re fine.
    2. Ditto. Might look better with light gray flannel pants but it’s still good.
    3. Very bad square, with squares like that, no wonder he turned against squares. Beyond that it’s hard to tell, I think I see a green jacket with a blue windowpane and dark gray trou? Jacket and trou too close in tone.
    4. Jacket fabric looks a little too “Italian Luxe” like a kiton close out. Not my fave. Shirt and tie are of course fine.
    5. Best jacket so far, would be better with a darker tie.
    6. Most exgerent
    7. Not feeling this. Shirt blue is too deep, too dark. I generally dislike French blue shirts and prefer the paler shades but if you are going to do it the jacket/suit needs to be very dark, preferably blue. That tie is to me a suit tie, plain and simple, or else OK with a blazer and white shirt for a formal night out. Jacket is … OK … but … and this is really a personal thing which maybe belongs in non-rule rules but for odd jackets in B&W plaid, I strongly prefer no overcheck. Plaid suitings should always have an overcheck.

    Cpt @145: meh. Not offensive. Does nothing for me. Ditch the square. Untuck the ticket pocket flap. Fit is good, I must say.

    o/o @ 152: I like both of these better than what he is responding to. Those are great squares, boys, and not “matched”; that is the way to do it. I think the second tie works better. The first one is a nice tie and it does go fine, I just find the second ensemble crackles more. In fact, take the square from #1 and the tie from #2 (and ditch the silly pin) and you are cracker-jack.

    Eg1 @ 173: wait, those fabrics you posted are odd trousers? Dear lord, those are both horrible odd trousers. Very bad taste. The first would make a barely passable jacket (the pattern is really too small) and the second is a not very good suiting.

    Unbelragazzo at 181

    Nope. Pedestrian suit. The stripe is an afterthought, looks very department store safe. Tie is banal. Shirt is OK Everything is “correct” but nothing about it is good taste.

    Verniza at 185:

    Top pic is nice. It’s the wrong square but the rest is good. Jacket fabric is lovely (that is what you should be looking for, stitchy)

    Bottom pic: disaster in every way. Tie is atrocious. Square one click behind. Suit looks badly cut judging by the shape of the lapels. None of the colors work together, except the suit and shirt.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2012
  15. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

    Messages:
    25,858
    Likes Received:
    10,381
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    

    Except that we don't necessarily learn in such a formal and organized manner, just like we don't actually stand outside observing the world like Descartes and people before Heidegger thought we did (subject/object). This may not seem important but I do believe SF (or Flusser's look) sorta demonstrates that it is.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by