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whnay.'s good taste thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Ok, colours on my screen don't reflect that, scrap everything I said then. I would still like it better with a less hardcore ps but this last point is highly debatable in the case of well balanced outfits. The label notch seems to be a little high but we don't really discuss that here, especially considering the angles people use. Width is really nice and not retro because you don't dress glaringly retro, I think most would look like 70s horrrorshows with suits such as these.
     
  2. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    Manton: I don't know exactly how to explain that to you (sorry but english is not my primary language).
    What I'm saying is that the collar has been setted too high and, also if it grips to your neck without any problems, this doesn't mean that the collar is right: that is not a regional style.
    Rubinacci for example is from the same region but the difference is there, you can notice this difference.
    I don't want to criticise your jacket, I don't know who made it, but (from what I'm seeing) I'm pointing out that the collar has been setted improperly (the lapels are way too long because of that - the starting point near the neck is too short: trust me, that is not the regional style).
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a long neck so I need a high collar. Low collars look terrible on me. They did a nice job with that collar, and indeed with all my collars. nearly all the Naples tailors that I have seen cut a high gorge, higher than anywhere else in Italy or on Savile Row.

    The tailor was Solito.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2012
  4. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    "I have a long neck so I need a high collar. Low collars look terrible on me. They did a nice job with that collar, and indeed with all my collars.

    The tailor was Solito."

    This sounds like a new rule to me: usually we don't set collars so high because a person has a long neck. Low collars are bad either, there are right measurements for every person's body. You have to know how to proportionate these things. Proportions are the main point in making a great suit.
    Some people think this collar setting is right, but you know,
    we have a very different method based on the old Domenico Caraceni and a very very long experience in these things.. for us these are just "patchings" when you don't know how to behave with some body's conformations.
    Sorry.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2012
  5. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are we talking about the gorge or the collar height or both?

    Anyway, I like the suit and I love that tailor.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    M, Try Musella for a suit. I think he is going to NY to visit clients. His clothes look more refined than Solito and Steed, may or may not be your thing.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I cannot be parted from my drape. Or, in Italian, drappa.
     
  8. Musella

    Musella Senior member

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    Please understand that I'm not trying to get you as one of my customer, but our aim is also to educate the personal style. If you are happy with it, then continue that way.
    By the way "drape" is in italian "taglio" or "linea" ;)
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Attempting to make up for yesterday's fail:

    [​IMG]

    better?
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. oldog/oldtrix

    oldog/oldtrix Senior member

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  11. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think the jacket demands very sedate items around it. The square is too much and the tie pattern is muted but still, its a pattern and this would have benefited from a solid tie I think. Dark brown or grey solid wool tie would have worked here, and no square or something quieter
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    o/o's coat shirt and tie work together well, the square does not and the no socks is icky.
     
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  13. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    and while we're bashing unbel, I really dislike that shirt collar on you, you need to go a bit higher and longer
     
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  14. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Very retro-looking + dunno if it is because you are craning your neck but it would seem you need a higher shirt collar. The arrangement is generally pleasant and I'd thumb it up in another thread but I am not sure it is in "good taste" to be so 70s referential in a 2012 outfit. PS has a nice colour.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    rags has said that he switched shirtmakers and his new shirts, which he has posted, are much better. So the problem has been corrected.
     
  16. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

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  17. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here's the way that I normally wear this jacket...you like it better? Having worn the spoilered combo 3-4 times now I wanted to something a little different:

    [​IMG]






    Manton's statement is true, but I think in this case it is mostly a result of me trying to crane my ugly mug out of the picture frame. I'm ok with how the collar looks when I'm not sticking my arms out to hold the camera and my neck out to get out of the pic.
     
  18. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Um, I actually don't like that tie with it either. Can't explain why but I think something other than silk (and navy/blue) will look better with that jacket.
     
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I think loud patterned sport coats, including gunclubs, have few optimal combinations. Plain blue blazers or other plain coats are more amendable to broad combinations of ties and shirts.
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't really view this one as that loud since the contrast is pretty low. Nor do I think that a loud coat necessarily calls for solid other stuff. But I'm pretty sure I'm in the minority on this one.

    Certainly a blue blazer is more versatile than a gun club check. But I'd rather not wear a blue blazer EVERY day.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2012

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