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Whither The Country Suit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pejsek, Sep 29, 2006.

  1. Huntsman

    Huntsman Senior member

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    There is a gorgeous, vintage, bespoke corduroy suit on eBay. If I was a 42R it'd be mine, and the revival would be in swing these parts.

    Regards,
    Huntsman
     
  2. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

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    There is a gorgeous, vintage, bespoke corduroy suit on eBay. If I was a 42R it'd be mine, and the revival would be in swing these parts.

    Regards,
    Huntsman

    Link?
     
  3. Huntsman

    Huntsman Senior member

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    Thanks, PB, that's the one.

    EA -- sorry, passed it along the way and didn't save the link.

    ~ Huntsman
     
  4. Teacher

    Teacher Senior member

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    Pejsek, that first suit of yours is absolutely sublime. It's awfully hard to find things like that...glad you did.

    To be honest, one of the reasons tweed suits are a rarity is because there is other clothing that just simply performs better in the great outdoors than tweed. I don't go hiking to look good; I do it to hike. Hiking and climbing are much simpler in performance gear designed to keep me dry and warm and easily cleaned (yes, I've cleaned mud out of tweed more than once, and I hope never to do it again). Regardless of how much we love suits...and Lord help me I love them!...they just aren't the best option for a rigorous outting. A liesurely stroll through the trees, sure, but nothing else.
     
  5. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I love country suits, and hope to add more of them to my wardrobe soon. Because my office is informal, I would be very out of place in a "city" suit. A "country" suit is just casual enough to pass. Plus they fit with my style better.

    Of course, wearing them in NYC in the winter with the overheated subway platforms is not always ideal.
     
  6. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I know, there aren't a lot of places to still wear the country suit. Sigh. Everytime ive worn one to a family Thanksgiving get together my cousins expect me to play football or something with them.

    It's a chaning world, some things for the better and others for the worse.
     
  7. Professor Branestawm

    Professor Branestawm Member

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    Hello, new member and all that sort of thing.

    I picked up a nice green harris tweed suit over the summer, so am looking forward to giving it some decent outings now that the weather is deteriorating enough to make wearing heavy fabric an option. In Cambridge at least tweed is still alive, though only occasionally seen in full suit form. Warm wool seems to work well in the damp.

    I know someone who went mountaineering a few years ago in Scotland wearing tweed. He said that it was more breathable than his goretex (no beads of moisture freezing on the inside) and once the sweat that had worked its way to the outside froze it formed a nice windproof barrier. Similarly, I wear a submariner's style jumper when climbing in cold conditions, because I find it lighter, less bulky and less water absorbant than similarly warm synthetic fleece.
     
  8. Jovan

    Jovan Senior member

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    There are few things cooler than a three piece tweed to me. (Or hot, technically, if you attempt to wear one in Florida's fall.)
     
  9. Charley

    Charley Senior member

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    This one on eBay that seems to measure as a 38/39. This thornproof tweed is in a great pattern for a more causal suit, IMHO. Nothing like it to be found OTR here in the US. Is there a name for the patern?

    ASTONISHING VINTAGE BESPOKE THORNPROOF TWEED SUIT

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is there a name for the patern?
    Russell plaid.
     
  11. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    The photos and illustrations are lovely.

    However, on a practical level of business dress you have to assess your kind of business, your position, and your customers.

    The natural habitat of the tweed suit is the country. However, it can be worn in the city on select occassions. The tweed suit worn in the city is associated with the wealthy and old families who have country homes or estates. In some businesses you would get a sneer or sideways comment if you wore some of these tweeds. In other businesses you would look smart.

    For example, I think that a Russell plaid suit would spell doom for an assistant bank branch manager, an insurance claims representative, or an associate starting out at a big corporate law firm. A tweed suit in these conformist environments can endanger your career.

    However, you could wear these plaids if you were in the so-called creative fields where the role models have an image of wealth and old family. I refer to publishing, non-profits, art galleries, museums, academia, clothing stores, jewelers, and other retailers catering to upper level incomes.
     
  12. novalis

    novalis Senior member

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    New York
    Well, here are two tweed suits that I've picked up in the last year or so. First up is a suit by Davies & Son tailored back in 1974.

    [​IMG]

    Next is a really interesting suit by the long-defunct Donaldson, Williams, & G. Ward of Burlington Arcade, also from the early 1970s.

    [​IMG]


    Great pictures, esp. that wonderful Davies suit. I'm particularly intrigued by the curved or convex collar on the Donaldson. Traditionally, that part of the collar is straight, no? Perhaps there is a specific term for the curved collar (akin to crescent pockets).

    Also love the suit & trouser hangar on the Davies.
     
  13. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    A local discount store has had a RL Polo 3-piece tweed suit in a classic pattern, an olive minicheck with a rust/red overpane, in my size for the past month (it's similar to the last picture in Lucky Strike's post, but the overpane is much more muted). Since I'm an academic, I could get away with wearing the suit to work and I'd also consider wearing each of the 3 pieces as separates. Of course, I would need to tolerate some snide comments from colleagues. I'm waiting for the price to come down from $399. If it were in the blue, gray, or brown color families, I would own it already.
     
  14. NewYorkBuck

    NewYorkBuck Senior member

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    I finally broke down and ordered a 3 piece tweed from the Harris Tweed Shop in Scotland. I have been waiting on this one for a while, but wanted it for this Thanksgiving. Ill let you gents know how it comes out.
     
  15. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    Well, I'm glad this thread has sparked so much interest and elicited all these wonderful comments. Apparently the country suit is not yet dead, at least in our minds!
    novalis, I hadn't really noticed the collar on the Donaldson suit until you pointed it out. Funny how revealing a picture can sometimes be. I've never really noticed that curve; I'll have to pull out some of the other Donaldson suits and see if they have the same collar construction.
    NYB, please let us know how your suit comes out. Pictures would be even better, if possible.
    While I was cleaning up the dining room the other day (don't ask!) I came across this bolt of cloth I bought a while back at the thrift store and then promptly put away. It's a beautiful tweed and there's about 7 yards of it. I think it could make a spectacular suit. I'm not going bespoke anytime soon--too much of op's bespoke in my closet--so if anybody here is thinking about having a tweed suit made but needs a little push, I'd be happy to send this cloth out at no charge. There are no tags or markings identifying the maker, but it seems to be fairly high-quality cloth and the finish appears hard enough to make pants a realistic choice. The hues are predominantly muted greens and browns, with the occasional fleck of brilliant saphire, emerald, and scarlet. I think you can make this out in the close-up. Drop me a message if you think you might be interested. My wife will be so pleased.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    Hello,

    WOW. I would LOVE to have that fabric. As a pass along gesture, I shall hunt through my stash and post some fabric that I was going to get made into a suit but after getting it (ebay!), realized it was not for me. Maybe someone else could use it.
     

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