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Which Sammy model should I purchase?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by forbritisheyes, Apr 10, 2013.

  1. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Good thing you're not my fitter or rep. Frankly, I don't give a rip what you think - I've heard many people call it that.

    Mike was saying how they can suppress the waist a lot for MTM(though, I would wait til the Sam rep comes during the trunk show) when getting measured. Having no experience with MTM, I cannot verify this. I needed a lot of suppression too. It fit like a Madison OTR. Biggest thing is the coats felt lighter than all the ones I own.

    C&P from AAAC for general knowledge:

    The Talbot:
    My new favorite from them, very soft shoulders, light weight. Lapels are 3 1/4 inch.
    I have it in a fully lined and 1/2 lined, I jokingly call it "Kitonesque" because of the very soft shoulders. I was shooting in a park today and a student asked me what I was wearing, the first thing he commented on was the shoulders, then the quality of the linen. The finishing of the inside seam is very well done with some little features that are a little different.
    This jacket is undarted but is far from being a sack suit and has good waist suppression.

    Perhaps Chris and Alex can comment here, but I am led to believe it is difficult to get nice suppression without the help of a quick fix dart or two.

    I have this in a fully lined linen/wool mix,
    again with the soft shoulder and light weight.

    The Troy:
    In the same sort of direction as the Talbot.

    The Graham:
    A Zealander wool sports jacket, patch pockets double vent, very slight padding, nice little details like the buttons on the patch pockets on one version.
    I have two Grahams and only one has this. This is my favorite fall or winter jacket (along with a cashmere Borrelli).

    The James:
    The classic conservative cut.
    Slightly full, 2 button, center vent double pleated, padded.
    Mine is in 130s summer weight and is a great warm weather suit.


    The Andrew:
    This is a suede sports jacket, padded, patch pockets and center vent.
    Great fall weekend jacket. Undarted, but that may be a result of the suede fabric, I am not sure. Moderate waist suppression.

    The Albert:
    Soft, good waist suppression,
    It is at the tailor as the dry cleaner ruined the cuff on the left arm,
    so I don't know how else to describe it with out looking at again.
    I really like this cut. I posted about wanting to buy a suit a ditch the pants a few months ago (and everyone advised against it) it was this cut, very nice. I don't recall if it is darted or not. They way we speak so often about our clothes, you would think I could remember that.


    The Como:
    I have a suit, 3 BT CV and a jacket, 2 BT CV, in this cut.
    Older style in the firm, square shoulders sense.
    The jacket is in a Deep Henna, great fabric, slight boxy cut compared to the newer suit bodies, I don't want to say a sack suit,it is darted, but more in that direction that the Albert or the Talbot.



    The Thomas:
    I think this is fairly new, this is a sports jacket with 3/4 lining, nice details in the way the lining is done at the end. Shoulders are softer than the James but more built up that the Talbot. When I fell the shoulders they don't have a thick pad, but they sit on your shoulders with a more padded fell than the Talbot (if that makes any sense). I posted a few pictures when I first got this jacket last fall.

    The Luca:
    Padded shoulders, squarish compared to the Talbot.

    The Alton:

    Soft shoulders, roped shoulder, slightly wider lapels, about 3 1/2 inches, 2 button, double vented.
    The Alton feels a touch softer overall than the Trophy, but that may be the fabric as the trophy I tried on was a beautful Zealander wool flannel, the Alton was a very light 130s.

    The Trophy:

    Softer shoulders than the Alston, equally roped, mid to wide lapels, 3 1/2 inches, 2 button, dual vents.


    The Brad:

    A car coat, 3/4 lined, in soft smooth wool, 6 button double breasted with nice details like a leather patch at the back of the neck on the insode and nice detail under the collar, if you flip it up on a cold or windy day, it will stand out from the jacket. Sleeves have buttoned tightening straps.


    The Greenwich:
    I know there are some fans of this cut here on AAAC, but I have not seen this suit body first hand and know nothing about it.
    _________________________________________________________


    I've heard a few times of this "Anderson & Sheppard" look. can you educate me on this?
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013
  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    If you need extensive waist suppression in your Samuelsohn jacket (agree with MoL on the name), maybe you should consider another brand. In MTM you are starting with the exact same jacket as OTR, but can have them make many adjustments to make it fit you better. As far as suppressing the waist, though, I think they are doing the exact same thing your tailor does in slimming the OTR jacket you take to her. In my limited experience, I've found that my Samuelsohn jacket looks good with all the waist suppression I had my tailor do, but that I prefer the overall shape and lines of a drop 7 Corneliani OTR jacket I bought that needed little to no alterations. This has led me to focus on purchasing jackets that fit with the least amount of alterations and appear to have been designed for my body type.
     
  3. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    This is one of the reasons I wanted to go MTM - to get that 8/9" drop. Won't this essentially do what you're saying? Everything else was fine, the back was fine, the body just needed a lot of work.
     
  4. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A tailor will only reduce the waist in one or two spots. In MTM the waist can be reduced in 5 places so the result can be better, especially for athletic figures.
     
  5. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Good to know. I may have to consider that. Thanks.
     
  6. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Thank you very much, Jeffrey, for that info. Can you tell me what places those are?

    are your hands feeling better?
     
  7. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On a finished garment, you can reduce the waist at the side seams and sometimes center back. On MTM, you can reduce at center front, the dart, the front seam, side seams and center back. On athletic figures, most often we have to go up a size (or two) to fit the shoulders correctly but then the waist is far too big- a large amount of it will be at the overlap at center front, which can't be adjusted on a finished garment but it's easy to do on MTM, and the rest can be divided among the other seams as necessary.

    Oh, and my hand has not improved at all, but thank you for asking.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2013
  8. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    =[ I pray it will get better soon.

    I have been told that it is taboo to touch the center back seam in a finished garment. Is this true?
     
  9. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you.

    Usually it's best to leave it alone- some tailors will do alterations at CB rather than at the side seams because it is easier, though not correct. In cases of prominent blades, swayback, very hollow waists, etc. it is an option.
     
  10. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    +1, I also had no clue what the OP was talking about
     
  11. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    I frequent AAAC more than here. They call it "Sammy" frequently over there. As such, I'm accustomed to calling it that. So please get over it.

    Do you think it's a good rule of thumb to avoid tailors who will alter the CB seam without reluctance?

    Do you(or anyone else) know if they offer models that look like this?:
    [​IMG]

    That is pretty much spot on for what I'm looking for. It's not too suppressed like the Tom Ford's he started wearing, and has just the right width in lapels for my taste. Perfect coat length(sleeves a tad long). It'd be perfect if it had a ticket pocket. Boy...I really do love this suit...
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  12. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    That's a Brioni suit. It's a great suit, but there's nothing special about the cut per se. It looks like a classic or 'Roman' cut.
     
  13. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Oh I know. I read that they provided the suits for the first film. It may not have anything special about it to many, but I would wear a suit cut like that any day. I've found that my tastes are a bit more conservative than many SFers. But there is a lot of traffic here so I enjoy that. Would you happen to know of any suit manufacturers that can provide that cut/silhouette w/ full canvas at a much lower price than a typical Brioni?
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  14. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    Try Brammy
     
  15. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  16. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    It's not an uncommon cut. I'm sure most companies can offer a similar silhouette (Canali, Corneliani, etc...).

    just experiment and see what you like best.
     
  17. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Aww nuts, are you serious? I passed up on a Canali and a CornelianI on eBay just the other week that had perfect inseam and sleeve measurements(hard for me to find on eBay). I had previously read that they were less fitted than other brands and caused me to neglect them. I'll have to go in to a store and make sure I find a model that fits properly. Do you know which retailers stock them? NM & saks 5th(outlet)?
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  18. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Saks. Corneliani is one of the brands I was thinking of when I suggested you consider other cuts that have a more tapered waist and may need fewer alterations.
     
  19. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Ah, okay. Will the outlet version of saks have the mainline? Does anyone happen to have a model # of the inside tag? I will call and ask my local saks. Do you think Corneliani is on par with or superior to Samuelsohn? I saw Jeffery's post on Brioni vs a Sammy and was impressed with its construction.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013

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