Which Sammy model should I purchase?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by forbritisheyes, Apr 10, 2013.

  1. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    There's moderate waist suppression (I'd guess about a drop 7 equivalent if it was a suit).

    And yes it's a herringbone; it's an awesome SC. If it doesn't sell I'm keeping it for myself.

    You can sometimes find great deals on Samuelsohn suits and SCs depending on your location. If you're in Canada, you can find SCs for $200 and suits for $500.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013


  2. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    That sounds awesome. Honestly, after looking at it again after several days, I think the styling is perfect. I hope it fits me when I go for the MTM program. I also hope that if it doesn't, other models look as good. It could also be that I've always found navy glen plaid and navy herringbone (and navy mini rope) suits very sexy.

    Do others have more information about styling and cut on the different models?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013


  3. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    So I went to the Hound today. I was able to try on a Gable and Greenwich. The gable fit better, but still needed a good deal of suppression. The greenwich was very large in the waist. None had roping. The only issue with the Gable was that the lapels were a tad too narrow. The Greenwich had better styling and length(longer). I told Mike that the shoulders of a 42L seem to fit well on me, but the waist was much too large so he said when I go MTM I should get an 8" drop. 41L chest also fit me better.

    As a first experience, the Hound was pretty cool. I liked how they set up the store and all the clothing in there. I only tried on 2 models and will definitely return for the trunk show. I wish they had the Talbot and that I had tried on the Globe.
     


  4. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Sammy my ass. It is Samuelsohn snd anyone that can't manage to say or spell it properly, doesn't deserve to wear it..
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013


  5. roveet

    roveet New Member

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    I'm glad someone posted this thread because I was wondering the same thing, namely what Samuelsohn cut should I choose. I've gone into a number of stores in the past and I haven't really had much success in getting an idea of what they have to offer.

    I am tall and have a rather thin and narrow body-type, with a 38 chest.

    I am very partial to the Anderson & Sheppard look but I'm not wholly opposed to something with a more structured shoulder.

    A while back I had a suit made in the Gable model and I think I would prefer a bit more waist suppression - incidentally does anyone know how far one can actually go with this? I haven't actually tried to get it altered and at the time it was made, I just followed the advice of the person who was fitting me.
     


  6. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Good thing you're not my fitter or rep. Frankly, I don't give a rip what you think - I've heard many people call it that.

    Mike was saying how they can suppress the waist a lot for MTM(though, I would wait til the Sam rep comes during the trunk show) when getting measured. Having no experience with MTM, I cannot verify this. I needed a lot of suppression too. It fit like a Madison OTR. Biggest thing is the coats felt lighter than all the ones I own.

    C&P from AAAC for general knowledge:

    The Talbot:
    My new favorite from them, very soft shoulders, light weight. Lapels are 3 1/4 inch.
    I have it in a fully lined and 1/2 lined, I jokingly call it "Kitonesque" because of the very soft shoulders. I was shooting in a park today and a student asked me what I was wearing, the first thing he commented on was the shoulders, then the quality of the linen. The finishing of the inside seam is very well done with some little features that are a little different.
    This jacket is undarted but is far from being a sack suit and has good waist suppression.

    Perhaps Chris and Alex can comment here, but I am led to believe it is difficult to get nice suppression without the help of a quick fix dart or two.

    I have this in a fully lined linen/wool mix,
    again with the soft shoulder and light weight.

    The Troy:
    In the same sort of direction as the Talbot.

    The Graham:
    A Zealander wool sports jacket, patch pockets double vent, very slight padding, nice little details like the buttons on the patch pockets on one version.
    I have two Grahams and only one has this. This is my favorite fall or winter jacket (along with a cashmere Borrelli).

    The James:
    The classic conservative cut.
    Slightly full, 2 button, center vent double pleated, padded.
    Mine is in 130s summer weight and is a great warm weather suit.


    The Andrew:
    This is a suede sports jacket, padded, patch pockets and center vent.
    Great fall weekend jacket. Undarted, but that may be a result of the suede fabric, I am not sure. Moderate waist suppression.

    The Albert:
    Soft, good waist suppression,
    It is at the tailor as the dry cleaner ruined the cuff on the left arm,
    so I don't know how else to describe it with out looking at again.
    I really like this cut. I posted about wanting to buy a suit a ditch the pants a few months ago (and everyone advised against it) it was this cut, very nice. I don't recall if it is darted or not. They way we speak so often about our clothes, you would think I could remember that.


    The Como:
    I have a suit, 3 BT CV and a jacket, 2 BT CV, in this cut.
    Older style in the firm, square shoulders sense.
    The jacket is in a Deep Henna, great fabric, slight boxy cut compared to the newer suit bodies, I don't want to say a sack suit,it is darted, but more in that direction that the Albert or the Talbot.



    The Thomas:
    I think this is fairly new, this is a sports jacket with 3/4 lining, nice details in the way the lining is done at the end. Shoulders are softer than the James but more built up that the Talbot. When I fell the shoulders they don't have a thick pad, but they sit on your shoulders with a more padded fell than the Talbot (if that makes any sense). I posted a few pictures when I first got this jacket last fall.

    The Luca:
    Padded shoulders, squarish compared to the Talbot.

    The Alton:

    Soft shoulders, roped shoulder, slightly wider lapels, about 3 1/2 inches, 2 button, double vented.
    The Alton feels a touch softer overall than the Trophy, but that may be the fabric as the trophy I tried on was a beautful Zealander wool flannel, the Alton was a very light 130s.

    The Trophy:

    Softer shoulders than the Alston, equally roped, mid to wide lapels, 3 1/2 inches, 2 button, dual vents.


    The Brad:

    A car coat, 3/4 lined, in soft smooth wool, 6 button double breasted with nice details like a leather patch at the back of the neck on the insode and nice detail under the collar, if you flip it up on a cold or windy day, it will stand out from the jacket. Sleeves have buttoned tightening straps.


    The Greenwich:
    I know there are some fans of this cut here on AAAC, but I have not seen this suit body first hand and know nothing about it.
    _________________________________________________________


    I've heard a few times of this "Anderson & Sheppard" look. can you educate me on this?
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013


  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    If you need extensive waist suppression in your Samuelsohn jacket (agree with MoL on the name), maybe you should consider another brand. In MTM you are starting with the exact same jacket as OTR, but can have them make many adjustments to make it fit you better. As far as suppressing the waist, though, I think they are doing the exact same thing your tailor does in slimming the OTR jacket you take to her. In my limited experience, I've found that my Samuelsohn jacket looks good with all the waist suppression I had my tailor do, but that I prefer the overall shape and lines of a drop 7 Corneliani OTR jacket I bought that needed little to no alterations. This has led me to focus on purchasing jackets that fit with the least amount of alterations and appear to have been designed for my body type.
     


  8. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    This is one of the reasons I wanted to go MTM - to get that 8/9" drop. Won't this essentially do what you're saying? Everything else was fine, the back was fine, the body just needed a lot of work.
     


  9. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A tailor will only reduce the waist in one or two spots. In MTM the waist can be reduced in 5 places so the result can be better, especially for athletic figures.
     


  10. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Good to know. I may have to consider that. Thanks.
     


  11. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Thank you very much, Jeffrey, for that info. Can you tell me what places those are?

    are your hands feeling better?
     


  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    On a finished garment, you can reduce the waist at the side seams and sometimes center back. On MTM, you can reduce at center front, the dart, the front seam, side seams and center back. On athletic figures, most often we have to go up a size (or two) to fit the shoulders correctly but then the waist is far too big- a large amount of it will be at the overlap at center front, which can't be adjusted on a finished garment but it's easy to do on MTM, and the rest can be divided among the other seams as necessary.

    Oh, and my hand has not improved at all, but thank you for asking.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2013


  13. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    =[ I pray it will get better soon.

    I have been told that it is taboo to touch the center back seam in a finished garment. Is this true?
     


  14. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you.

    Usually it's best to leave it alone- some tailors will do alterations at CB rather than at the side seams because it is easier, though not correct. In cases of prominent blades, swayback, very hollow waists, etc. it is an option.
     


  15. archetypal_yuppie

    archetypal_yuppie Senior member

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    +1, I also had no clue what the OP was talking about
     


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