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Which plaid?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by A Y, Jun 5, 2006.

  1. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm trying Thomas for the first time. Not only is he very good, he visits three times a year. That is more than anyone else and makes the fitting cycle much more convenient now that I'm travelling less.
     
  2. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Thanks guys. I'm really enjoying the new suit. It feels a bit odd when I slip on one of my RTW suits now.

    Will, I didn't realize you were in San Francisco. We should try to get together the next time. Maybe when Tom revisits, or when Tony Gaziano returns. What did you end up ordering? I ordered a double-breasted suit in a 13 oz. navy chalk stripe for my next suit.

    One thing I found out from this suit is that I think drape improves with the weight of the cloth. Matt's 15-20 oz. suit is fairly dramatic proof of that.

    --Andre
     
  3. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I ordered a blue 10 oz. mohair DB with a quarter lining.

    Soft tailoring benefits from heavier cloth but Matt is a stronger man than I. I walked to the hotel wearing a 10 oz. worsted and was sweating in the suite.

    Be happy to visit Tony G. with you.
     
  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not stronger, just younger and dumber. It was quite hot in there, but hopsack breathes well enough.
     
  5. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    I think this would be great for someone who has a very strong and technical sense of what he wanted, but I think that even enthusiasts like posters of the clothing forums don't necessarily know all the details that go into a great-fitting and -looking suit. We've seen examples here of the Schubert custom shoe experiments and Jantzen shirts that have tried to imitate other styles, but they invariably look like a poor copy. I think it's easier to start out with a house style that you like, and go from there.

    --Andre

    I will add that MTM simply cannot offer the fit of bespoke. I have used Oxxford, fitted at the NYC flagship. All the little balance tweaks etc. that are possible with bespoke are not with MTM. Yes, you can pick practically every little detail. But at the end of the day it's just not as perfect as it would be if the pattern is made for me.
     
  6. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Matt's 15-20 oz. suit is fairly dramatic proof of that.

    15-20oz? Surely, you jest?[​IMG]
     
  7. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    15-20oz? Surely, you jest?[​IMG]
    Who are you calling Shirley? [​IMG] I'm not exaggerating... too much, but I admit it's probably closer to 15 oz than 20. I got to examine Matt's jacket, and it was much heavier than the 13 oz cloth I selected. It's apparently a house cloth for Rubinacci which they really like using, but it makes into a coat of walking art. It was very interesting and instructive too to compare the English interpretation of drape vs. its Italian cousin. Will, that sounds like a nice choice. I went for full lining, but my plaid suit's pants have no lining, which he did without me asking. Did you get to see the vicuna blend jacket which was just in basted form? --Andre
     
  8. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Who are you calling Shirley? [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'm not exaggerating... too much, but I admit it's probably closer to 15 oz than 20. I got to examine Matt's jacket, and it was much heavier than the 13 oz cloth I selected. It's apparently a house cloth for Rubinacci which they really like using, but it makes into a coat of walking art. It was very interesting and instructive too to compare the English interpretation of drape vs. its Italian cousin.

    The drape is better when done up in heavier cloths it's true. Fifteen ounces is too much for me outside of the occasional flutter. I daresay it's too much for most men. But I recognize that there a group around here that like it and that cloth really can look incredibly attractive at these weights because of its depth. Also you wont need an overcoat and you can eschew going to the gym for a work out.
     
  9. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Who are you calling Shirley? [​IMG]

    I'm not exaggerating... too much, but I admit it's probably closer to 15 oz than 20. I got to examine Matt's jacket, and it was much heavier than the 13 oz cloth I selected. It's apparently a house cloth for Rubinacci which they really like using, but it makes into a coat of walking art. It was very interesting and instructive too to compare the English interpretation of drape vs. its Italian cousin.

    Will, that sounds like a nice choice. I went for full lining, but my plaid suit's pants have no lining, which he did without me asking. Did you get to see the vicuna blend jacket which was just in basted form?

    --Andre


    In my experience, the English don't tend to line pants unless you press for it.

    I did see the cashmere and vicuna. The watered effect made it look like dinner jacket cloth rather than suiting to my eye. But diversity makes the world go round.
     
  10. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like unlined trousers, but the fit of my pants is very different from the fit of both of yours. My pants are almost always in contact with my thighs, rather than brushing against, and I do not know if the difference would change the comfort level.
     
  11. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like unlined trousers, but the fit of my pants is very different from the fit of both of yours. My pants are almost always in contact with my thighs, rather than brushing against....

    I attribute that to Italian sensuality. [​IMG]
     

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