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Which plaid?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by A Y, Jun 5, 2006.

  1. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Distinguished Member

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    5434 or 2858 for me.

    As a side note, I badly want a gray glen plaid with a pink windowpane
     


  2. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    4457 would have been my pick. With rare exceptions, I prefer glen plaids to be distinct.



    +1 on that. FWIW 4457 was my choice as well
     


  3. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    Good luck with this, Andre. Mahon is very highly regarded by his clients. I'm envious you have the money for this affair. [​IMG]
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    As a side note, I badly want a gray glen plaid with a pink windowpane
    The Harrion's book "Thistle" has a purple/lavender one. Can't recall seeing pink in any of the books currently out there.
     


  5. Fabro

    Fabro Senior Member

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    I really like 4457. Good luck. I'm envious.
     


  6. A Y

    A Y Distinguished Member

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    An update on the cloth and suit after a quick jaunt to San Francisco this weekend to meet Tom for my first fitting. No pictures, unfortunately. The suit is looking very promising, and the cloth is fantastic: nice hand and drape that feels smooth and spongy to the touch, and the pattern isn't at all obtrusive on a large scale. From far away, it looks dark grey.

    I also found out some interesting things:

    - San Francisco is apparently the maddest stop of Tom's US tour. On Monday, their first day, they were seeing clients from 9 AM to 9 PM, with 2 half-hour breaks for meals, and it will be pretty much like that today as well. Things can go awry when they fall behind schedule (someone's late for example), because some people are overlapped with others and each session is only about 30 minutes long. But he seemed to be handling it well and efficiently, and Lucy charmed waiting clients in the hotel lobby. Even New York is laid back by comparison.

    - A&S drape cut is NOT a sack! When there are brief summaries of Savile Row style, A&S is made out to be formless, compared to Huntsman and other similar house styles. It's actually quite fitted (my jacket had to be let out a bit because it was too fitted), and far more so than any OTR Italian brand I've tried, but, and this is the big difference, the A&S cut doesn't give you any shape you don't have already. The hard styles give you shape with shoulders, flared skirts, etc. In terms of philosophy, I think this is very similar to the Neopolitan style. Interestingly, the only place I've seen a comparable fit is a fellow forum member's MTM Kiton KB-model jacket where he had very specifically asked for a native Neopolitan fit from a factory tailor/fitter, instead of the roomier jackets we get here.

    - Speaking of the jacket, the first fitting was somewhere more constructed than a forward (basted) fitting, but less than the full suit: no pockets, button holes, collar facing (I could see the lapel stitches on the canvas), or lining. Part of the reason is that for a first-time client, it's easier to take apart for alterations since the pattern may not be right yet, and it's also lighter to transport. 30 to 40 jackets' worth of lining add up to a lot of luggage weight.

    - The most unexpected thing I learned are how big a role the pants play. For good reason, a lot of talk about custom centers around the jacket, but the pants can be the subject of much custom work and help the jacket. I couldn't believe how good the pants look: my legs looked like they were going on forever. The pants are cut a bit slimmer than I had expected, too, but this was in line with my requests for the look of the suit. A lot of times, people talk about a house style as if it were a rigid thing, but I think it's more of a philosophical framework by which to frame the customer's requests. I'm sure trained eyes can tell that the suit is A&S-influenced from a distance, but the suit is very much cut to and reflects each person's desires.

    So far so good. I'm very excited about seeing the final product in a couple of months.

    --Andre
     


  7. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    - San Francisco is apparently the maddest stop of Tom's US tour. On Monday, their first day, they were seeing clients from 9 AM to 9 PM, with 2 half-hour breaks for meals, and it will be pretty much like that today as well. Things can go awry when they fall behind schedule (someone's late for example), because some people are overlapped with others and each session is only about 30 minutes long. But he seemed to be handling it well and efficiently, and Lucy charmed waiting clients in the hotel lobby. Even New York is laid back by comparison.
    Which brings up the eternal question about dressing in San Francisco... Where do these people go, because nobody ever sees well dressed men in San Francisco. Thanks for the update. Sounds like a great experience.
     


  8. clarinetplayer

    clarinetplayer Distinguished Member

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    4457 Reminds me of Edward, Prince of Wales. It makes a strong statement.
     


  9. Holdfast

    Holdfast Stylish Dinosaur

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    Sorry to have missed this thread first time round.

    The cloth you chose is really very nice. I was looking at it myself a few months ago and thought it had a lovely pattern and a nice hand as well. My only reservation, which stopped me commissioning a bespoke suit, was that it was a trifle too light. I can't quite be sure from your photo, but my memory is that it really was quite lightweight. I was after something a touch heavier that I could wear in the spring and autumn as well so ended up deciding against it. But for a summer suit, very nice choice! I think you will be very happy with the final product.
     


  10. ceaton

    ceaton Senior Member

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    4466. But again, because that's what my favourite suit is made from!
     


  11. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    Well, this solidifies my decision for using Tom when and if I run into a considerable sum of money. Thanks for sharing, Andre. [​IMG]
     


  12. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Distinguished Member

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    May I inquire about the relative price? Is it, say, about what a MTM Oxxford in that fabric would be? More? Less? Does it have more handwork than Oxxford?
    thanks
     


  13. Tomasso

    Tomasso Distinguished Member

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    May I inquire about the relative price? Is it, say, about what a MTM Oxxford in that fabric would be? More? Less? Does it have more handwork than Oxxford?
    thanks


    I believe that Mr. Mahon would charge a bit more than Oxxford with less handwork.

    http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000006.html
     


  14. A Y

    A Y Distinguished Member

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    To add to Tomasso's comments, the custom suit will probably fit you better (unless you are exactly Oxxford's model). It's also much softer than Oxxford. Oxxford probably wins by a large margin on construction, but its styling always leaves a bit to be desired.

    --Andre
     


  15. cpac

    cpac Senior Member

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    just w/r/t the original question, I'd go witht he bottom right.
     


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