Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by KenKen, Sep 10, 2013.
Which jacket fits better?
Same size, but 42S vs 42R
Left or right?
(Neither are ideal, I know)
Shoulder looks wrong on the left rear shot.
Sleeve length is better on the left.
Is left too short?
I would say the one on the right in both front and back
Go for the regular.
Next time you're looking for a suit try to find one with side vents (they are more flattering) and a more sculpted waist.
The short one is much too short. Even the regular one could stand to be about an inch or so longer. On the stylistic side, you would benefit from a lower button stance and wider lapels.
How can you tell the buttons are too high?
Where should they be?
What is the rule of thumb for button stance?
There aren't really any hard and fast rules, only loose guidelines and trial and error. I find that the easiest way to think about the button stance is to think of it in architectual terms. Just as an architect can alter the look of a facade by changing where the windows sit, so a tailor, by moving the button stance up or down, can alter how a suit's lines and curves come together. This can be thought of in practical terms -- a higher button stance lends an illusion of height to a short person, and a lower button stance makes a tall person look less towering -- but there's also an aesthetic element to it, which means that a particular button stance might have both merits and demerits depending on which of these considerations you lend weight to. I find your jacket unaesthetic in that the "V" area between the buttoning point and the collar points is disproportionally small compared to the "V" area between your crotch and your shoes. This gives the ensemble an unbalanced, disharmonious look, much like -- to return to the earlier analogy -- how a displaced window can make a facade look discordant.
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