Which is better made?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, Apr 11, 2005.

  1. kabert

    kabert Senior member

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    (Mike C. @ April 11 2005,14:00) Well according to the poll Borrelli is "winning," thus is better made. According to industry standards, St. Andrews by all means is a much better make. Who is right here? This is why I didn't vote. Â If we were talking about shirts, it would be a different story. Borrelli shirts are absolutely top-notch.
    Well, St. Andrews does not make shirts, so I am talking about jackets / trousers (mainly jacket though). Jon.
    St. Andrews dress shirt on EBay right now. I wonder who makes it for St. Andrews? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WDVW By the way, I voted for Borrelli. However, I think I much prefer the fit of St. Andrews suits/jackets over Borrelli. Also, Borrelli's shirts are top of the heap in my opinion.
     


  2. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    (imageWIS @ April 11 2005,11:16)
    Well according to the poll Borrelli is "winning," thus is better made. According to industry standards, St. Andrews by all means is a much better make. Who is right here? This is why I didn't vote. If we were talking about shirts, it would be a different story. Borrelli shirts are absolutely top-notch.
    Well, St. Andrews does not make shirts, so I am talking about jackets / trousers (mainly jacket though). Jon.
    St. Andrews dress shirt on EBay right now. I wonder who makes it for St. Andrews? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....me=WDVW By the way, I voted for Borrelli. However, I think I much prefer the fit of St. Andrews suits/jackets over Borrelli. Also, Borrelli's shirts are top of the heap in my opinion.
    Yes, but why is that? What body type are you? Is the drop too big? Are they only made for slim people / 'V' body? Jon.
     


  3. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    First, you really need to be reed-thin. You also need to be able to carry off the signature high armholes, and be able to wear such a jacket with comfort, not an easy task. You'll also need to lose your hips, and be able to walk in trousers that are pencil thin with an uncomfortable rise. If you're on the tallish side, you'll look especially silly in the leg-huggingly tight trousers, especially with no break at the shoe. Overall, a very restricted, constrained garment that is not very elegant, in my humble opinion. Please, no death threats, it's just one man's view. I was speaking with a very elegant man from Italy the other day whose family is in the high-end apparel industry, and the topic of the Neapolitan cut
    arose---He's rather unimpressed by it, and doesn't wear clothes with such a cut because of the very reasons I highlighted. Incidentally, he wears SA.
    Grayson
     


  4. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Strange, since neapolitan men tend to be squat and short [​IMG] koji
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Especially the older men who are more likely to be so attired (the young guys tend to favor the designers). It is strange.
     


  6. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Ummm... the pants come basted, if you wear them with no break that's preferance. People say the same stuff about Thom Browne. If anyone ever bothered to check, his pants come basted as well, you can get them tailored however you prefer. In fact almost all of his customers get them full length. It's only him that you see wearing them high.
     


  7. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    http://www.robbreport.com/Article....ers.asp "Naples is shaking again, but this time the trembling has nothing to do with Mount Vesuvius. The tremors began last year, when Gianluca Isaia decided to rethink the classic Neapolitan suit, a garment that has remained virtually unchanged since the 1930s. The silhouette, with its high armhole and exaggerated trim fit, is a look that only the very lean can pull off." Grayson
     


  8. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I believe that the model referenced at the end (the three roll two) probably is what ended up being the Stewart model. Yes?
     


  9. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Some guy named Massimo Bizzochi looked fabulous the last time I saw him in his K50. Long and lean is certainly not a description that springs to mind when seeing him in person.

    koji
     


  10. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    Since the comparison involves Borelli, I should specify that it's the Borelli silhouette that is unflattering in its extremeness, in my opinion.  Almost a caricature of the Neapolitan cut. Rubinacci, one of the most highly regarded bespoke tailors in Naples, has a house style not nearly as constrained as Borelli, that is elegant, relaxed and comfortable.
    Grayson
     


  11. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Every *picture* I've seen of a Borrelli garment made it look pretty sack-like. I must say, after reading this I am more interested in their suits, if they really are as constrained as Marc claims. I'll have to see if they're as hardcore as me. [​IMG]
     


  12. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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  13. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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  14. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Hmmm.. I'll have to see it in person. Looks awesome though. I love the way the lapels rest on the shoulders.
     


  15. auto90403

    auto90403 Senior member

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    the borrelli site lists the US cities with stores selling theri clothes but asks you call italy to get the store's name. a peculiar marketing strategy.
     


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