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Which is better made?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, Apr 11, 2005.

  1. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Ummm... the pants come basted, if you wear them with no break that's preferance. People say the same stuff about Thom Browne. If anyone ever bothered to check, his pants come basted as well, you can get them tailored however you prefer. In fact almost all of his customers get them full length. It's only him that you see wearing them high.
     
  2. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    http://www.robbreport.com/Article....ers.asp "Naples is shaking again, but this time the trembling has nothing to do with Mount Vesuvius. The tremors began last year, when Gianluca Isaia decided to rethink the classic Neapolitan suit, a garment that has remained virtually unchanged since the 1930s. The silhouette, with its high armhole and exaggerated trim fit, is a look that only the very lean can pull off." Grayson
     
  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I believe that the model referenced at the end (the three roll two) probably is what ended up being the Stewart model. Yes?
     
  4. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Some guy named Massimo Bizzochi looked fabulous the last time I saw him in his K50. Long and lean is certainly not a description that springs to mind when seeing him in person.

    koji
     
  5. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    Since the comparison involves Borelli, I should specify that it's the Borelli silhouette that is unflattering in its extremeness, in my opinion.  Almost a caricature of the Neapolitan cut. Rubinacci, one of the most highly regarded bespoke tailors in Naples, has a house style not nearly as constrained as Borelli, that is elegant, relaxed and comfortable.
    Grayson
     
  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Every *picture* I've seen of a Borrelli garment made it look pretty sack-like. I must say, after reading this I am more interested in their suits, if they really are as constrained as Marc claims. I'll have to see if they're as hardcore as me. [​IMG]
     
  7. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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  8. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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  9. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Hmmm.. I'll have to see it in person. Looks awesome though. I love the way the lapels rest on the shoulders.
     
  10. auto90403

    auto90403 Senior member

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    the borrelli site lists the US cities with stores selling theri clothes but asks you call italy to get the store's name. a peculiar marketing strategy.
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There is a difference between Neapolitan suits made RTW for the American market and the "real deal" made by Naples' bespoke tailors. Â Kiton suits sold here all have shoulderpads, for instance. Â A true bespoke Neapolitan coat will not: at most, one with a spalla con rollino will have a smidgen of wadding a la A&S. Â The spalla camicia will have nothing but the tape. Anyway, I don't find that Kiton is too lean; it is certainly not uncomfortable to me. Â Whether it is a good value is another question. Â Attolini is leaner than the "average" Neapolitan bespoke coat, but still comfortable: not a Brioni, by any means. Â The "real deal" coats that I have seen and worn are the most comfortable garments in the world, hands down. Â They are full and draped but quite lean. Â This is achieved partly by the famous full, shirred sleevehead (which either looks sloppy and half-assed, or charmingly degage, depending on your point of view), partly by the cut (lots of drape yet a front cut instead of a front dart to slim down the coat), and partly by the long, long waist that starts almost under the armhole and finishes almost at the hips.
     
  12. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    How does Borrelli fare? Jon.
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Borrelli suits are in some respects more SR than the other Neapolitans. Shorter coat, swelled chest, nipped (shortish) waist. Still soft overall; there's no such thing a stiff Neapolitan coat. But unlike most of SR, the gorge is super-high, and the lapels are quite wide.
     
  14. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Quality-wise are they better / worse than St. Andrews? How about when paired to other Neapolitan makers?

    Jon.
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know enough to say. It's been a while since I pawed over either a Borrelli or a St. Andrews. I will say that I still think, of the brands mentioned so far, Attolini is the clear winner in terms of quality, handwork, etc.
     
  16. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Jon and I were blown away by some Cesare Attolini sportcoats down at the Vacca store in Boca Raton.

    koji
     
  17. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Originally Posted by Manton,April 11 2005,18:26
    I don't know enough to say. It's been a while since I pawed over either a Borrelli or a St. Andrews. I will say that I still think, of the brands mentioned so far, Attolini is the clear winner in terms of quality, handwork, etc.
    Jon and I were blown away by some Cesare Attolini sportcoats down at the Vacca store in Boca Raton. koji
    Koji means Palm Beach [​IMG] Yeah, they are worth robbing a bank for... Jon.
     

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