Which grey suit is right for me?

[marsy101]

Ok, so this is my second post after having introduced myself:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/261591/introduce-yourself/2400#post_6573699

Because I had only just started waking up to style at the end of winter/beginning of Spring this year I have nothing appropriate for Autumn/Winter.

I do not need a suit for work so suits and jackets are purely for fun. I like the opera and my wife and I tend to go once a month from October onwards. So I need something appropriate for this but I do also want to take advantage of the fact that I'm not bound by any corporate uniform rules.

I have seen these suits at Suit Supply which I like:

Peak lapel dark grey. Obviously Ok for the opera but worried that the width of the lapel will mean I won't get away with my slimmer ties... thoughts?:

http://eu.suitsupply.com/suits/suit...html?start=3&cgid=Suits&prefn1=size&prefv1=46

I love houndstooth but wondering if this could be a bit too light for the opera. This could be a misplaced concern though. I imagine with the right shirt, tie, handkerchief combo it could still 'pack a punch':

http://eu.suitsupply.com/suits/suit...refn1=color&prefv1=Grey&prefn2=size&prefv2=46

I like the look of this one too:

http://eu.suitsupply.com/suits/suit...tml?start=27&cgid=Suits&prefn1=size&prefv1=46

I would use the trousers occasionally with this jacket:

http://eu.suitsupply.com/jackets/ja...d=Jackets&prefn1=fitID&prefv1=Double Breasted

I know this was a long post and if you made it through, thank you very much for taking the time! I would really appreciate some input.

Marsy

 

[Sean McKee]

Marsy,

Those are all good looks. For the Opera you want to go dark on your suit. A lot of men wear Tuxedos to the opera as it is a very formal occasion typically. You should take your build into consideration before making your choice of suits. If you are tall and skinny then the wide lapel would look nice giving you a wider appearance. If you are short and on the heavy set side then you would want a lapel that is around 3" -3 1/2" and that would compliment your skinny ties which would not be appropriate with the wider lapels. The shorter you are the better a peak lapel will look as it will give you some "height" A taller man would look better wit ha notch lapel which would make him appear a bit "shorter". It's the longer lines of a peak lapel that gives a man the taller appearance.

Hope my opinion is helpful and good luck!

 

[aravenel]

The second two suits are much less formal than the first, though I am not a fan of peak lapels on a suit. If this is your second suit, you need something versatile you can wear over and over again without it looking like you only own the one suit. Peak lapels and patterns are not conducive to this. Get a solid charcoal/mid-grey or navy blue plain worsted.

As for the skinny ties, get rid of them, they look silly anyways.

 

[Sean McKee]

I agree, get rid of the skinny ties

 

[marsy101]

The second two suits are much less formal than the first, though I am not a fan of peak lapels on a suit. If this is your second suit, you need something versatile you can wear over and over again without it looking like you only own the one suit. Peak lapels and patterns are not conducive to this. Get a solid charcoal/mid-grey or navy blue plain worsted.

As for the skinny ties, get rid of them, they look silly anyways.

Good advice. Would you agree then that peak lapels look good on a double breasted worn on its own?

I did say 'slimmer ties' though ;-) I tend to wear knitted ties at around 2" and wool or tweed ties at about 3".

I did accidentally buy some skinny ties on ebay which are about 1.5".... never been worn.... will never by something that thin again!

 

[Sean McKee]

Absolutely the only option on a DB suit...sorry I should have been more clear on that.

 

[aravenel]

For a double breasted, I don't think I've ever seen, nor would I want to, anything other than peak lapels. But you shouldn't be looking at double breasted suits for your second suit. Again, you need something you can wear all the time, and a double breasted is not that.

 

[marsy101]

Marsy,

Those are all good looks. For the Opera you want to go dark on your suit. A lot of men wear Tuxedos to the opera as it is a very formal occasion typically. You should take your build into consideration before making your choice of suits. If you are tall and skinny then the wide lapel would look nice giving you a wider appearance. If you are short and on the heavy set side then you would want a lapel that is around 3" -3 1/2" and that would compliment your skinny ties which would not be appropriate with the wider lapels. The shorter you are the better a peak lapel will look as it will give you some "height" A taller man would look better wit ha notch lapel which would make him appear a bit "shorter". It's the longer lines of a peak lapel that gives a man the taller appearance.

Hope my opinion is helpful and good luck!

Hi Sean,

Thanks for the response. I noticed last year that the tux vibe is definitely dying at the opera (here in Warsaw, Poland anyway). So that being said, I found that my well tailored navy linen suit paired with the right bits, looked considerably more dressy than the array of poorly fitted pin-stripes most of the men seemed to be wearing!

I'm 5'9" (172cm) and athletic, so I'm looking for something that not only makes me look a bit taller but also has a nice v-taper.

cheers

 

[marsy101]

For a double breasted, I don't think I've ever seen, nor would I want to, anything other than peak lapels. But you shouldn't be looking at double breasted suits for your second suit. Again, you need something you can wear all the time, and a double breasted is not that.

Hadn't thought about it but of course only a peak lapel would work on a DB!

I'm certainly not looking for a DB suit at this time but I do like the more casual DB look with just the jacket, paired with some jeans or light grey suit trousers. So that's why I threw the link in to the DB jacket.

 

[Sean McKee]

I haven't been to the opera lately so it sounds like you're doing a fine job with your choices. Nice on the linen suit for the summer! At 5'9" peak lapels are a good choice for you. I would keep the style very simple. Plain front trousers, no pleats, no cuffs, On the coat go with two button with lower button placement peak lapels and side vents in the back. Today coats are made both with a higher or lower button placement. The lower placement gives an elongated look. Stay away form details on the coat like ticket pockets and any other distractions. Those options will tend to make you look shorter rather than taller. Same on the trousers. Cuffs and pleats are not your best choices.

 

[marsy101]

I haven't been to the opera lately so it sounds like you're doing a fine job with your choices. Nice on the linen suit for the summer! At 5'9" peak lapels are a good choice for you. I would keep the style very simple. Plain front trousers, no pleats, no cuffs, On the coat go with two button with lower button placement peak lapels and side vents in the back. Today coats are made both with a higher or lower button placement. The lower placement gives an elongated look. Stay away form details on the coat like ticket pockets and any other distractions. Those options will tend to make you look shorter rather than taller. Same on the trousers. Cuffs and pleats are not your best choices.

I hadn't realised until this year how well structured linen suits can be, so I was pretty happy with the look, overall.

I've already noticed with some jackets how much better a lower button placement looks on me, including a single button. Great tip re: ticket pockets though as I was leaning toward ticket pockets for that Saville row look.

thanks

 

[Sean McKee]

Seeing as these garments are only for fun for you I don't see any reason not to buy DB suits or sport coats. If it were for business I would agree you shouldn't. At your height you should be careful with DB regardless.

 

[marsy101]

Guys, what are your thoughts on these then:

notch lapels in blue and grey

http://eu.suitsupply.com/suits/suit...fv1=Notch Lapel&prefn2=color&prefv2=Blue|Grey

http://eu.suitsupply.com/suits/suit...fv1=Notch Lapel&prefn2=color&prefv2=Blue|Grey

peak in blue

http://eu.suitsupply.com/suits/suit...efv1=Peak Lapel&prefn2=color&prefv2=Blue|Grey

 

[Sean McKee]

Yeah the make can be constructed or un-constructed depending on the look you're going for. As for the ticket pocket, go for it if you really want it...not that big a deal. Those are just things I take into consideration when making/designing clothes for my clients.

 

[marsy101]

What I'm taking away from this is that some people don't like peak lapels, BUT they do help elongate the torso. However this does not necessarily mean a notch lapel will work against me, as long as it is not too skinny?

DB jackets could make me look shorter by not allowing the shirt and tie to break up and elongate my torso?