1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Which brands do a good roped shoulder?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by edmorel, Mar 13, 2006.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,670
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    Any pics would be appreciated.
     
  2. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

    Messages:
    10,448
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    Your Michel Angelo jacket has a great roped shoulder.
     
  3. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,670
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    Your Michel Angelo jacket has a great roped shoulder.


    Thanks, I was looking to compare that with some of the big boys like Kiton, Borrelli etc. but I can't seem to find any good pics. Thanks for the PM, I will contact him.
     
  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Messages:
    33,441
    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2002
    Location:
    Moscow, Idaho
    Of the Italians, Brioni suits are well known for their roped shoulders.
     
  5. thinman

    thinman Senior member

    Messages:
    4,926
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2005
    Location:
    USA
    The Oxxford Crest model has a slightly roped sleevehead.
     
  6. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    SR tailors outside (or sometimes, inside) the A&S tradition do rope shoulders. Huntsman, Dege, Kilgour, etc. Their RTW lines, I assume, should, too.

    Here is an example I am wearing now.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. drake

    drake Senior member

    Messages:
    601
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Westwood, Los Angeles
    Holy crap man that suit looks amazing. From the file name I take that it's a Kilgour suit?

    SR tailors outside (or sometimes, inside) the A&S tradition do rope shoulders. Huntsman, Dege, Kilgour, etc. Their RTW lines, I assume, should, too.

    Here is an example I am wearing now.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    Thanks. It's in favourable lighting, and yes, it is by Kilgour.
     
  9. thinman

    thinman Senior member

    Messages:
    4,926
    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2005
    Location:
    USA
    Holy crap man that suit looks amazing. From the file name I take that it's a Kilgour suit?

    I second that! What an amazing suit!!
    Here's an Oxxford Crest (missed your request for pictures on first reading):

    [​IMG]
     
  10. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,603
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2003
    I agree that the shoulders on that Kilgour are great. I'm suprised, though, as one of the partners in my firm has a couple bespoke KFS suits and the shoulders don't look anything like that.

    As an aside, is that the "pagoda" shape as the English shoulder was once described?

    dan
     
  11. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,384
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    I don't understand the roped shoulder. The look is very unnatural to me. I owuld love an explanation if somebody has one.
     
  12. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,592
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    Zegna's current silhouette has distinct roping, and the pagoda shape.

    Is that Kilgour bespoke or RTW? The armholes look a little low.

    --Andre
     
  13. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    It is Kilgour bespoke (entry level). The lighting hides the armholes, but they are nice and high for my top heavy arms. The new Kilgour apparently cuts a slightly different silhouette than the old KFS.

    I wasn't expecting the pagoda shoulders, as most SR shoulders I have seen in this vein are straight. There is no padding because of my rather square shoulders that sort of pitch naturally. But the cut is still obviously structured and a touch of wadding and a large shoulder with a smallish armhole gives the roping effect. It is not extreme. I like it. Other aspects of the silhouette are less to my liking.

    I only like a bit of roping on city suits - the Italian rollino is really nice but hard to obtain. On country suits and sport coats no roping looks better to me. Rope is indeed unnatural.
     
  14. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    I love the artifice of the pagoda roping.

    As for Kilgour's bespoke, this is the Shanghai model?
     
  15. demo5

    demo5 Senior member

    Messages:
    150
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2004
    Zegna Napoli Couture used to have a roped shoulder, not sure if they still do.
     
  16. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,603
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2003
    Not to hijack the thread too much or anything, but to me, that Kilgour shoulder is very striking. Would it look out of place on a less format sport coat?
     
  17. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

    Messages:
    2,455
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2005
    I love the shoulder but prefer a less structured look for sport coats.
     
  18. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

    Messages:
    17,933
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2002
    Location:
    Canuckistan
    Not to hijack the thread too much or anything, but to me, that Kilgour shoulder is very striking. Would it look out of place on a less format sport coat?

    On a dark suit it looks striking, but I think it would be a bit much for an odd jacket. For myself, I prefer a more defined shoulder with roping on suits, but for casual I prefer a "neapolitan" shoulder.

    Neapolitan in "" because according to Manton, the shoulder on a Borrelli (or even Kiton RTW) jacket isn't really a true neapolitan shoulder, but it does borrow some aspects. See his excellent post on london lounge if interested.
     
  19. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,592
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    Zegna Napoli Couture used to have a roped shoulder, not sure if they still do.

    As of fall 2005, they still did. From the pictures of their spring Sartorial line, it looks like they still do.

    --Andre
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by