Where to get reasonably priced wool pants with structure?

[marlinspike]

I need some fat clothes, hopefully for no more than 6 more months. It seems all cheap (I'll define that as under $200 because I can also try ebay once I know a good brand) wool pants are gabardines. Does nobody make wool pants with some weight and structure to them without spending over $200? One caveat, that will make it hard, must not be made in China.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

I need some fat clothes, hopefully for no more than 6 more months. It seems all cheap (I'll define that as under $200 because I can also try ebay once I know a good brand) wool pants are gabardines. Does nobody make wool pants with some weight and structure to them without spending over $200? One caveat, that will make it hard, must not be made in China.

In a word: no.

In 57 words: Wool trousers with weight and structure are uncommon as it is these days, but if they're also not made in China they will certainly not be under $200. I'd expect to pay at least $300 to start, and that's in US prices. In Canada almost nothing that's any good is less then 500 - trousers or otherwise.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I need some fat clothes, hopefully for no more than 6 more months. It seems all cheap (I'll define that as under $200 because I can also try ebay once I know a good brand) wool pants are gabardines. Does nobody make wool pants with some weight and structure to them without spending over $200? One caveat, that will make it hard, must not be made in China.

Try Natalino. What do you have against clothes made in China?

 

[marlinspike]

Shame.

Well, how about this, to avoid waste of a thread, once I'm back to fighting weight, who gives the best bang for the buck in the category? Not after that 50% increase in price to get the last 5%, just good.

 

[marlinspike]

Try Natalino. What do you have against clothes made in China?

Eh, this isn't really the forum for it,but I'll PM you to satisfy your curiosity.

 

[An Acute Style]

Try Luxire unless you have something against India too.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Eh, this isn't really the forum for it,but I'll PM you to satisfy your curiosity.

Ok. Your reasons are actually pretty good, for others who are wondering.

I'll reiterate my Natalino recommendation. Made in Italy or Portugal. Good fabrics. Options in decent weight cloths. I like the silhouette. There are other good options, but not much consistently below 200. Some on here like Yeossal. I have no experience with them and don't know where they're made, but they look good in the pics I've seen.

 

[dieworkwear]

Dapper Classic's trousers are made in New York City using mostly midweight wools. I believe most fabrics here are 12-14oz. If you're concerned about weight, you can email them. The waistband interlining is about "normal" for RTW. Prices are $145-235.

Classic Fit

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www.dapperclassics.com

O'Connell's trousers are made in the USA and Canada. They have dress cotton gab for $135. Wool gab is $235. Just note that wool gab is not necessarily a material I would describe as having "structure." It's a very fluid twill.

O'Connell's pants are a little fuller fitting than Dapper Classics.

Home page - Men's Clothing, Traditional Natural shouldered clothing, preppy apparel

O’Connell's, established in 1959, is a family owned and operated traditional clothier offering mens, womens, and young mens clothing.

oconnellsclothing.com

The Andover Shop also has made-in-the-USA trousers. Prices range from $135 to $275 (many are around $200). The cut is closer to O'Connell's than Dapper Classics. They also offer MTO once you know your size.

Men's Trousers

At The Andover Shop, our traditional clothing has something others lack: an unexpected pop of personality. Shop both online and at one of our store locations in Andover, MA and Cambridge, MA to receive free shipping & returns, complimentary tailoring, and in-store pick-up.

www.theandovershop.com

 

[marlinspike]

I like the Dapper Classics and the Natalinos, but it seems these purchases will still have to wait, as I am too dang fat for their sizes lol.....sigh.....cry. I think I outgained my wife, but she's the one who got pregnant. I'll just chalk it up to being a very sympathetic person.

 

[dieworkwear]

I like the Dapper Classics and the Natalinos, but it seems these purchases will still have to wait, as I am too dang fat for their sizes lol.....sigh.....cry. I think I outgained my wife, but she's the one who got pregnant. I'll just chalk it up to being a very sympathetic person.

Did you take a look at O'Connell's? Their trousers go up to a size 54 in US sizing.

 

[marlinspike]

Did you take a look at O'Connell's? Their trousers go up to a size 54 in US sizing.

I have forgotten all about them. Happily I didn't go that far astray, but a 44 is still too big for the other guys.Will give it a look.

 

[dieworkwear]

I have forgotten all about them. Happily I didn't go that far astray, but a 44 is still too big for the other guys.Will give it a look.

Dapper Classics and Natalinos are somewhat slim-fitting. Dapper Classics offers two fits -- classic and slim -- but I would characterize the classic as being slightly slimmer than what you'd find at a very traditional shop.

The problem with these things is that companies often have to start with a defined market. So they will say "we want to sell a more modern classic-ish cut." Oftentimes, those kinds of companies are aimed at guys around the 32 waist size.

So then they'll draft a pattern for someone with a 32 waist. And then they'll grade the pattern up and down from that pattern -- the 30, 34, 36, etc.

Once you go above a certain number, the proportions are thrown off. To do a slimmish cut right for a larger guy, the company would have to draft a new pattern. But oftentimes, they won't do this because that's not their intended market. Drafting a new pattern costs money, which likely won't be recouped for the small number of 38 and maybe 40 size trousers you'll sell.

I don't know if trad shops such as O'Connell's developed a new pattern for those larger sizes, but it's worth a look if they have sizes way above 44. I assume that means they developed a new pattern somewhere up in the pattern scale, and then graded up from there.

 

[marlinspike]

32, wow even when I was underweight I was still a 36.
Is there a brand that didn't join slim cut? Even when I'm thin, give me that Bing Crosby cut (ok....not that far,somewhere in between)

 

[dieworkwear]

32, wow even when I was underweight I was still a 36.
Is there a brand that didn't join slim cut? Even when I'm thin, give me that Bing Crosby cut (ok....not that far,somewhere in between)

I would say those "trad" shops have stayed very traditional. I wouldn't characterize their trousers as being baggy or slim -- it's a very classic cut. Granted, "classic" nowadays is widely considered full for most people. But in terms of the history of men's dress, I think those shops are very "down the middle" in terms of silhouette.

In the US, trad shops include O'Connell's and The Andover Shop, as mentioned above. They have trousers for around $200. They almost always use mid-weight materials because that's their customer. There's also Cable Car Clothiers in San Francisco, but their trousers are a little more expensive. O'Connell's has wool gab for $235; Cable Car's wool gab trousers are $280.

You can also try J. Press, another trad shop. It's been about ten years since I've tried their trousers, but I vaguely remember them being marginally slimmer than O'Connell's. Their patterns may have changed.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Dapper Classics and Natalinos are somewhat slim-fitting. Dapper Classics offers two fits -- classic and slim -- but I would characterize the classic as being slightly slimmer than what you'd find at a very traditional shop.

The problem with these things is that companies often have to start with a defined market. So they will say "we want to sell a more modern classic-ish cut." Oftentimes, those kinds of companies are aimed at guys around the 32 waist size.

So then they'll draft a pattern for someone with a 32 waist. And then they'll grade the pattern up and down from that pattern -- the 30, 34, 36, etc.

Once you go above a certain number, the proportions are thrown off. To do a slimmish cut right for a larger guy, the company would have to draft a new pattern. But oftentimes, they won't do this because that's not their intended market. Drafting a new pattern costs money, which likely won't be recouped for the small number of 38 and maybe 40 size trousers you'll sell.

I don't know if trad shops such as O'Connell's developed a new pattern for those larger sizes, but it's worth a look if they have sizes way above 44. I assume that means they developed a new pattern somewhere up in the pattern scale, and then graded up from there.

I would say those "trad" shops have stayed very traditional. I wouldn't characterize their trousers as being baggy or slim -- it's a very classic cut. Granted, "classic" nowadays is widely considered full for most people. But in terms of the history of men's dress, I think those shops are very "down the middle" in terms of silhouette.

In the US, trad shops include O'Connell's and The Andover Shop, as mentioned above. They have trousers for around $200. They almost always use mid-weight materials because that's their customer. There's also Cable Car Clothiers in San Francisco, but their trousers are a little more expensive. O'Connell's has wool gab for $235; Cable Car's wool gab trousers are $280.

You can also try J. Press, another trad shop. It's been about ten years since I've tried their trousers, but I vaguely remember them being marginally slimmer than O'Connell's. Their patterns may have changed.

FWIW, I don't find Natalinos to be slim. I have troubles fitting into a lot of the brands recommended on here, but not Natalino. The hems are a bit on the slimmer side, but higher up I find them to be at least as roomy as pants from traditional American clothiers.

I have stuff from the Andover Shop, for instance. I have troubles fitting into their flat fronted stuff up top, but their pleated stuff is similar to Natalino up top. To the OP, be sure to get pleated.