Where to get cheap tuxedo in NYC?

[dah328]

Actually, you were just really lucky. I never ceased to be surprised by the number of posts saying "I need a really good suit for [some really low price] and I need it within the week." There's good, cheap, and fast and you can generally get only two of those. You were really lucky. Congrats, tho. That tux should last you a while or at least until the three-button/notch lapel conundrum starts to really bug you.

 

[MetroStyles]

Well, I'm lucky I have you guys or I would be clueless...

...well unfortunately I still am. I have no clue about formalwear. At all! I searched and searched but could not find a FAQ about tuxedos. What different lapels are called, and when they are appropriate. What different shirt types signify. What double-breasted means as opposed to single-breasted (just the extra pocket?). Cufflinks, cuffs, pleated/non-pleated, shoes. Cummerbund or vest? What part of the outfit should match the date? No Clue!

Now I don't want you have you guys answer a thousand sophomoric questions on here. So is there a resource that explains all these things to a newbie who has no clue about ANY of this terminology? Thanks again!

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by dah328

Actually, you were just really lucky.

This fact can not be overstated.

 

[dah328]

Yeah, we don't really have any of the basic stuff together in one place.

Lapels -- peak and shawl are considered traditional or "correct" for tuxedos (generally called "dinner jackets" or DJs here). The notch lapel, while very common lately, is a carryover from business suits and few tailored clothing enthusiasts would seek out one.

Peak lapel:

Shawl lapel:

Notch lapel:

Single-breasted vs. double-breasted applies to any kind of jacket. All the jackets above are single-breasted. The jacket below is double-breasted as characterized by the "overlap" on the closure of the jacket. Double-breasted jackets should almost always be peak lapel.

Cummerbunds and vests should always cover the waistband of your trousers as that should never be visible in a DJ. If you're wearing a DB jacket, it should remain buttoned covering your waistband so neither a cummerbund nor a vest is required. If you choose a vest, the low-buttoning vests are more traditional than the brightly-colored, high-buttoning monstrosities you'll find in any cheap rental place these days.

Shirts -- typically a turn-down collar is worn with a DJ. Some people prefer wing collars, but those were traditionally worn with white tie/tails rather than a DJ. The front of the shirt can be either pleated or pique. The shirt will have double cuffs requiring cuff links for closure.

Wing collar, pleated front:

Wing collar, pique front:

Turn-down (regular) collar, pleated front:

Shoes should be black patent or highly-polished calf black balmorals. Opera pumps are also correct.

Opera pumps:

Patent balmorals (altho the captoe is technically incorrect on these):

Do get a white linen or cotton pocket square for your breast pocket like the one on the notch lapel jacket above.

Which part should match your date? Probably none. You might consider a colored pocket square that coordinates with your date if you're really set on the idea. The general concept of semiformal wear for men is that it's very uniform and provides a canvas against which the women look good. That appears to be somewhat lost on most men these days. Try to set yourself apart from the unwashed masses by wearing a good quality, properly fitted traditional DJ rather than some 5-button junk with a neon green vest or whatever they're pushing at the local rent-a-tux.

dan

 

[MetroStyles]

Very informative. Thank you Dan!

As far as cummerbund vs. vest, what factors go into the decision? I am 5'11'' 150lbs, so pretty skinny. Does one of those go better with a certain body type?

 

[Tomasso]

Excellent post, Dan. It's just about pin-able for use as a primer. Just a couple of additions.

Bow tie(self tied) should be black and match the lapel(grosgrain or satin) and cummerbund/vest(?).

Front placket of the shirt should be fitted with studs(matching or complementing the cufflinks),or have "interesting" buttons or have a covered placket.

Silk over-the-calf stockings.

I'll let others address outerwear, scarves, gloves and hats.

 

[chorse123]

I think a cummerbund is best. Better to show off the shirt and studs.

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by MetroStyles

Very informative. Thank you Dan!

As far as cummerbund vs. vest, what factors go into the decision? I am 5'11'' 150lbs, so pretty skinny. Does one of those go better with a certain body type?

I prefer a vest. 5'11" and 150 lbs describes fairly little. What is your chest size and waist measurement and inseam length. If you are about my size and fitness level (I am 5'11" and was about 152 lbs postworkout this afternoon - 40 chest, 31 waist) you can wear pretty much anything and it'll look at least decent - sample sales are my friend. If your measurements are non-standard, tell us, and will make suggestions. I usually wear a vest (my tux is a really slim Costume National deal) or nothing. I dislike cumberbunds, but that is a personal preference.

 

[MetroStyles]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

I prefer a vest. 5'11" and 150 lbs describes fairly little. What is your chest size and waist measurement and inseam length. If you are about my size and fitness level (I am 5'11" and was about 152 lbs postworkout this afternoon - 40 chest, 31 waist) you can wear pretty much anything and it'll look at least decent - sample sales are my friend. If your measurements are non-standard, tell us, and will make suggestions. I usually wear a vest (my tux is a really slim Costume National deal) or nothing. I dislike cumberbunds, but that is a personal preference.

39 chest, 31 waist. I'd like to wear a vest because I will be taking the jacket off eventually and I think a vest looks better than a cummerbund without a jacket. Is it better to go for the low-button vest and not the higher-up button vest?

Also, since I am already asking so many questions, do you think Wilfred's could take care of bringing in the waist a little, extending the sleeves a bit, and narrowing the pants? Within a week? Thanks.

 

[Matt]

Originally Posted by MetroStyles

Also, since I am already asking so many questions, do you think Wilfred's could take care of bringing in the waist a little, extending the sleeves a bit, and narrowing the pants? Within a week? Thanks.
Im gonna take a punt based on your self confessed cluelessness and say that if the sleeves feel 'a bit' short to a new wearer, they are probably about the right length.

New guys always always wear their sleeves too long.

Post some pics of yourself wearing the jacket up here and you should get some pretty detailed advice about what needs to be done to it.

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by m@T

Im gonna take a punt based on your self confessed cluelessness and say that if the sleeves feel 'a bit' short to a new wearer, they are probably about the right length.

New guys always always wear their sleeves too long.

Post some pics of yourself wearing the jacket up here and you should get some pretty detailed advice about what needs to be done to it.


You're good m@T.


I saw a great deal on a Borelli formal shirt(Ebay) in 15 1/2. Beautiful.

 

[MetroStyles]

PICTURES:

Please tell me what needs tailoring. I think the shoulders are good, maybe a bit tight. Waist okay, maybe take it in. Sleeves lengthened. Note: The shorts I am wearing are NOT part of the tuxedo, neither is the t-shirt. I know, fashion faux pas, so sue me

Front Relaxed
http://tinyurl.com/q57u6

Back Relaxed
http://tinyurl.com/nnwws

Front Arms Out
http://tinyurl.com/qnfnj

Back Arms Reaching Forward
http://tinyurl.com/qupeb

Front Unbuttoned Relaxed
http://tinyurl.com/pmocn


Thanks a bunch!

 

[whoopee]

The waist can definitely be taken in.

Find a low cut waistcoat. The high ones look absolutely horrible.

 

[Matt]

do you have one arm longer than the other, or is it just not quite sitting right at your shoulders?

yup, take in the waist and it will give a very nice silhouette.

btw - i think Dans post is wikiworthy (if we still doing that)

 

[MetroStyles]

I think its mostly the way I stand. Maybe one arm is a little longer but nothing noticeable.

So far

1) Take in Waist

Not clear about whether you guys think the sleeves need to be lengthened or if it will look okay with the shirt cuff showing.

Shoulders are okay or tight?