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Where to find H. Lesser clothes + Price Range

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by sisman, Apr 9, 2005.

  1. sisman

    sisman Member

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    Hi,

    I would like to order a couple of bespoke suits in H. Lesser clothes (thanks to so many positive reviews). My tailor does not offer H. Lesser fabrics so could you please give me some info on where I could buy those (I live in Belgium so preferably in Europe, can be online too if possible)? I'd like to have also an idea of the price range (per meter), knowing that I'm mostly interested in the 10 to 13Oz range.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Cheers,
    Sisman
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you ever get to London? There's a little hole-in-the-wall fabric store near Savile Row (New Burlington Street) called W. Bill that sells cloth lengths to walk-ins. In addition to selling their own stuff, they carry various mills and merchants (hit or miss).
     
  3. sisman

    sisman Member

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    Thanks Manton. I'm not often in London but plan to go there to buy fabrics so your advice is spot on ;-) Could you give me an average price range, just for information? I know it can vary a lot but I really have no idea about the price of good quality fabrics, classic blue/grey worsted or flannel, from super 80 to super 120 in the 10 - 13 Oz range... Is it about 100$/meter, 200$/meter, more???

    Cheers
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know A) if they will have Lesser at any given time and B) if they do, what the prices will be.  $100 per meter would be really, really low -- too good to be true.  $200 would be more like it, and still very good as a wholesale price, if you can find someone to sell it to you wholesale.  But I can't say for sure, as all the Lessers I have I got through a tailor (which is the way Lesser prefers to do business).
     
  5. sisman

    sisman Member

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    Thanks again, that's exactly what I wanted to know.

    Cheers
    Sisman
     
  6. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    Good choice in Lesser---Their 10 oz.--13 oz ranges are great. I'm partial to the slightly heavier 11/12 oz. range and if you're really a traditionalist, the 13 oz range is outstanding, too. I find the slightlier heavier cloth tailors better. Lesser is more, so good luck.
    Grayson
     
  7. sisman

    sisman Member

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    Thanks Lisapop. I can't say that I'm a real traditionalist because I'm only beginning to build a bespoke wardrobe and so I think that I will stick with the classics for a while...

    Stupid question but what is the conversion between ounces and grams? I found different numbers and I'm still unsure?
     
  8. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    1 ounce = approx. 28 grams
    Grayson
     
  9. sisman

    sisman Member

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  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Multiply the ounce number by 28.3495 to get grams.  However, that can be slightly misleading, since traditional English cloth is not meter width (~ 39 3/8") but 36" goods.  I believe that Lesser still makes cloth in the 36" width, even though more and more English mills are switching to meters.  Anyway, meter-width cloth will obviously weigh slightly more at the same basic "hand" and density.  Thus a 300 gram cloth in meter width is the rough equivalent to a 10 oz. cloth in 36" goods.
     
  11. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    You're welcome.  Depending on your budget, try one suit in 10 oz and afterwards in 11/12 oz. and see which you like more.  The 13 oz is a bit too hearty for many and would be somewhat stuffy for the warmer months.  Enjoy your suit.
    Grayson
     
  12. sisman

    sisman Member

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    very interesting Manton.
    Damn, English people can be so complicated...
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The EU conquers all.  Some day soon all cloth will be woven in meters and sold in grams. Unless the French referendum goes badly. Which, recent polling aside, is impossible to imagine.
     
  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't mean to break up a satisfactory relationship with your local tailor, which is a rare thing and worth cultivating. But-- if you're planning to go to London more than once, you could just find a London tailor. All the good ones should have Lesser fabric. It's one way to save all this schlepping around and worrying about retail/wholesale costs.
     
  15. sisman

    sisman Member

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    I'll follow your advice lisapop. I really want to try a 13Oz suit but will probably wait next winter...
     
  16. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    Not complicated at all.  Lesser very simply group the 10 oz cloth in one book, their 11/12 oz cloth in another book, and their 13 oz cloth in yet another book.  Don't stress over it.  Just take your time looking through the books, which can be quite enjoyable, actually.  Let your tailor figure out how many meters of cloth are needed. Leave your propeller cap and pocket conversion calculator at home.
    Grayson
     
  17. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    This actually brings up the issue of timing. Since it can take a couple months for a suit to be completed, if you're interested in a Winter-weight suit, you'll need to time that commitment accordingly. If you order a Winter suit in the Winter, especially with traveling tailors, it may well end up being ready in the Spring.
    Grayson
     
  18. sisman

    sisman Member

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    Concordia,
    I agree with you and would love to try a London tailor (Darren surely...) but I can't really afford that for now. I've found a very nice and excellent tailor (at least to my standards), in my budget, and I want to continue the relationship with him.

    Cheers
     
  19. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sisman: I have some Lesser 13, and do not find it so hot. Â I would not wear it in July or August, but I don't consider it a January suit either. Â More of a "'tween" suit for early spring and fall. Â But mine is a two-piece, and I might feel differently if it were three. Â Now, Lesser 16 oz.: that's a winter suit. Â It comes with its own central heating system.
     
  20. sisman

    sisman Member

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    You're right about the timing issue. I just ordered a new suit and will see how long it takes...
     

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