• We are thrilled to welcome Capra Leather to the Styleforum family of official Affiliate Vendors.They are a hand crafted, made to order leather goods family company. Their products have unique designs with a aesthetic that blend minimalism, tradition and functionality. Focused on sustainability they offer a lifetime warranty on every piece.

    Give Capra a warm welcome on their Official Affiliate Thread

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Where should the gorge of a peak lapel should be ?

Saucy_pepe

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
1280869

I asked my tailor for a double breasted peak lapel navy pinstripe suit . My initial suit trial was destined 20 days from the day of order (It was delayed for 3 more days). I went for the trail, and after trying on the jacket everything seemed ideal but the lapels. This is my first peak lapel suit but from what I have witnessed , lapels are usually broader and the gorge is at your shoulder level.

I asked my tailor if he can change this , but he said everything is as it's supposed to be . I contended with my knowledge of lapels and then he mention it looks this way cause of my build . I stopped arguing and left the store.

After all he's a tailor so his expertise surpasses mine OR maybe this time he's wrong and in denial.

P.S.
My shoulders : 18.5 inch /47 cm
My Chest : 37 inch / 94 cm
Also , can this be fixed in any way ? I might have same fabric laying around, just a little though.
 

Attachments

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
27,319
Reaction score
69,461
That suit and fabric don't look good. You should use a different tailor and cloth.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,368
Reaction score
4,721
Lapel width is something to be discussed before the cloth is cut. don't try to adjust this in any way short of a full remake. Seems your tailor is taking queues from current fashion trends.
To be clear, the gorge is the seam joining the collar to the lapel cloth. Runs from the breakline to the peak. Is this the same area as you are questioning?
 

Saucy_pepe

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Lapel width is something to be discussed before the cloth is cut. don't try to adjust this in any way short of a full remake. Seems your tailor is taking queues from current fashion trends.
To be clear, the gorge is the seam joining the collar to the lapel cloth. Runs from the breakline to the peak. Is this the same area as you are questioning?
We did discuss the lapel dimensions before . He still did it his way. And about the full remake , he won't do it. I'll get the completed suit 5 days from now and I'll ask him for the remake , if he denies , what options do I have ? Reimbursing ?
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,368
Reaction score
4,721
We did discuss the lapel dimensions before . He still did it his way. And about the full remake , he won't do it. I'll get the completed suit 5 days from now and I'll ask him for the remake , if he denies , what options do I have ? Reimbursing ?
What did you ask for regarding lapels?
 

Saucy_pepe

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
What did you ask for regarding lapels?
I mentioned him not to make it super wide like a vintage suit and not super slim cause I avoid trends . I sent him some sample images on his business account and asked him how I want my lapels to be done.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,368
Reaction score
4,721
That seems vague to me. Is this the suit at the first fitting or was there a fitting in-between ordering and this picture?
Would consider this suit a learning experience of how to work/communicate with a tailor.
Would also consider another tailor, his work shows carelessness. Did you notice how the dart is sewn on the stripe causing the stripe to disappear on the right side of the jacket front but not on the left front? The entire stripe is showing on the right side.
 

Saucy_pepe

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
³
That seems vague to me. Is this the suit at the first fitting or was there a fitting in-between ordering and this picture?
Would consider this suit a learning experience of how to work/communicate with a tailor.
Would also consider another tailor, his work shows carelessness. Did you notice how the dart is sewn on the stripe causing the stripe to disappear on the right side of the jacket front but not on the left front? The entire stripe is showing on the right side.
This was the first fitting , it was just fabric before this . As of me being vague , I really emphasized on lapels and my torso's silhouette and told him so much more than I told you in the reply, (I just summarized ). My suit was delayed and rushed at the same time . It was delayed as the tailor might've had some orders prior to mine and I can say it was rushed cause my first fitting date was rescheduled 3 times and when I called him 4th day in the afternoon, he told me to visit him in the evening telling me my suit isn't ready . All in all , I think it was a waste of money and time but a good lesson of not holding back in matters of intimacy with your tailor.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,368
Reaction score
4,721
You didn't have a fitting actually. Tailor went straight to finish. That's why you can't adjust these issues. If a basted fitting was done you could have seen the actual size of the lapels and made changes before finishing the jacket
 

JJ Katz

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2018
Messages
594
Reaction score
616
The lapel width looks OK to me (I would go maybe a CM wider, but it's fine).

The buttoninG point looks really high and the shirt-tie space miniscule: is that intentional?

*** Re. the level of the notch / length of the gorge****. Current trend is for notches so high they are nearly on top of the shoulder and, in a peak, that means litlte reverse wings that go fltying off the top of the shoulders. It looks ridiculouys. In my opinion, the tip of the peaks should reach your collar bone, not your shoulder top.

Current fashion: super-thin or super-wide lapel with very high notch&peak - don't like it.

1280935


Much better. Much more balanced.

1280936
 

Featured Sponsor

What do you normally wear on Mondays at work?

  • Suit, shirt, and tie

  • Suit and shirt, no tie

  • Dress shirt and trousers, jacket or sport coat, tie

  • Dress shirt and trousers, jacket or sport coat, no tie

  • Dress shirt and trousers, no tie or jacket

  • Casual trousers and shirt (polo, t-shirt, etc.)


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
483,513
Messages
10,288,392
Members
216,276
Latest member
tannerdrreed
Top