Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Nous, Dec 11, 2013.
Are you a 38R???
Leaving aside virtual theory about horse riding and hands in the pocket or other outdated theories, if you use your tuxedo to attend social events were you actually spend time sitting down and having dinner, then the vents are a necessary practicality as they look better and do not let the back of the jacket bulge up and feel uncomfortable. Even the Duke got all of his dinner jacket and tuxedo double vented. Finally if you have a Mediterranean man body, then a double vented is the only choice.
I had a custom made to measure tux and shirt made for me by the Hong Kong tailor that makes my business suits. (suits for $550 and shirts from $60 - $120, which includes shipping and clearing customs)
I "economized" by keeping my eye out for once-used accessories on eBay in excellent condition. I could have done this for much less, but I wanted high end accessories.
Total cost for the tux and accessories was approx. $1,478
Tuxedo - Made to measure - $810
Jacket: black (fine) wool with no vent (was $660, but I paid $150 extra for the best material)
Jacket: single covered button at waist
Jacket: single covered button on each cuff
Jacket: black satin shawl collar
Trousers: black fine wool with satin stripe
Trousers: flat front, with no cuffs
Trousers: concealed buttons for braces
Shirt – Made to measure - $140
White cotton (140x140) with solid yoke
Fly front with turned-down collar
Smooth oval bib
French cuffs with same color (white) initials on left cuff
Cummerbund – eBay - $39
Versace black satin with pleats
Tie – eBay - $25
Black satin butterfly self-tie
Shoes – eBay - $99
Ferragamo black patent leather formal pump with grosgrain tab (worn once!)
Cufflinks: black onyx and 14k dumbells by Tiffany’s (eBay $350)
Braces: black with gold (brass) hardware (eBay $15)
Picture of the tux with a different shirt:
Ferragamo pumps? Gets my vote for best first post in SF history. Are your tailor's suits fused or canvassed? If they're canvassed, I'm sure many people (myself included) want to know quite a lot more. Who is he, and are there any threads about him? I assume there must be a hong kong tailors thread.
The Ferragamo formal loafers.... some people call them pumps. I love Ferragamo loafers and have several pair.
The Hong Kong company is Macomber, Inc (http://macomberinc.com/)
The tailor I work with from there is the son of the tailor that my dad used. I have the same suit in 9 different fabrics and always get compliments on the fit.
I do not know if they are canvassed, but I can pull the material apart and feel a loose layer in between there, so probably so. You have me curious now, so I will ask!
I know the Ferragamo formal loafers well - tried them on and was instantly sold on getting patent slip-ons. I bought the CK knock-off version of them, and now feel like I should have looked harder for the real thing. But then, I'm not afraid to wear my CK's places where they might get damaged or scuffed up, since I know I could replace them for only $130 (and wear my Oxfords in the interim if necessary). Do let me know if those turn out to be canvassed (sounds like). Anyway, I won't hijack the thread any further.
He says that he made my particular suits with the new fusing tech (based on my material requirements and target cost). He says they do full canvas tailoring for a little more, but I can't imagine that I'd be able to tell the difference.I'd need the 2 side by side, I suppose.
Totally agree with your approach on the shoes! I only wear that pair with the tux, so it's not really an issue but I have been known to be overly careful when wearing some of my better shoes.
I only wear mine with my Tux, but in Vancouver that requires one to be creative about where to wear it. I also sometimes take transit in it.
What? Pray tell, is a Mediterranean man body?
Rounder backside. I have read an Italian etiquette book from the 1950's that in the menswear section even claimed that the double vents were an "invention" of Italian tailors to accommodate this....
Here's another question:
Is this pattern acceptable for a formal tux, or do you go with straight black if wearing a black tux?
that pattern may be acceptable if you are tending bar for the event.
that vest is horrible.
looks like the one i wore to the prom in '98.
Nothing specifically wrong with it. It's low cut. It's black. It is a bit off centre, though.
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