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Where should I get my tuxedo?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Nous, Dec 11, 2013.

  1. Nous

    Nous Active Member

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    I know there are a lot of tuxedo threads but this is in regard to my particular situation. I'm willing to spend about $1500 on my wedding tuxedo, but need some direction. Here are different thoughts that I've had, and I'm hoping you can help steer me down the right path:

    -I'm looking for something classic. There are a lot of "rules" of what's good and what's not, and I'm not sure where all of them come from, but I agree that some things are just more aesthetically pleasing than others (e.g., no pocket flaps).

    -I am interested in either a very dark midnight blue or black tux with peak lapels. Do I go satin or grosgrain? What's the difference, other than style?

    -Where should I go? I'm willing to do custom, but there are so many places that I can choose from. Any suggestions?

    -How do you all feel about the Brooks Brother's Gatsby tux? I know it has pocket flaps, but I'm wondering if I can have them removed? I actually tried one on and although it looked great, the fabric was THICK, and fit differently than a Zegna tux. Obviously one is full canvassed and the other is half, and the the Zegna has higher quality fabrics. It's also $2,700, although I'm going to see what type of sale Nordstrom offers on it on 12/15 during their semi-annual.

    -Believe it or not, my fiance liked the Gatsby tux better than the Zegna tux I tried on. Just something I found interesting.

    -To patent leather oxford or calfskin captoe with a nice polish?

    I've read the black tie guide and endless amounts of forum posts, so I figured I'd ask you all and hopefully you can help my confusion. This is all very new territory for me.

    Thanks.
     
  2. ezlau

    ezlau Senior member

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  3. JohnGalt

    JohnGalt Senior member

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    those lapels are absurd
     
  4. Nous

    Nous Active Member

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    That is quite stunning, thank you. It's a bit out of my price range. What do you think about the Gatsby tux from BB?
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2013
  5. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    The cycle of lapel width. The 1970s are returning.
     
  6. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    The tux looks like something from John Held:

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_LHHD4xqjgZY/THmc_OvoNsI/AAAAAAAAFwU/7WCEPRzHNN0/s1600/john+held+2.jpg

    Another instance of Italian theatricality. Check out Paul Stuart. I have a tux from them that is decades old and
    still looks good because it is classically styled.
     
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    My tailor, in Vancouver, I overheard quoting $1500 for a bespoke tux to another soon to be groom when I was getting alterations done for my wedding fit. Shop around and see what you can have made in your price range.
     
  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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  9. Carli

    Carli Active Member

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    My friend used BB and he is very happy with it.
     
  10. rbarthel

    rbarthel Senior member

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    If it fits you with minimal tailoring needed, i think that the BB tux represents a great value, especially if you are like most Americans and rarely, if ever, attend black tie functions.

    Let's be honest, construction is not a huge concern for a tuxedo that gets worn once or twice a year on average.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2013
  11. Nous

    Nous Active Member

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    Thank you for all of the responses. I plan on wearing the tux more often after the wedding. As my business grows, I'd like to attend more black tie affairs.

    I figured the BB tux was great value; especially since I'll probably pick it up on their day after Christmas sale (30-40% off, I assume). If not, I'll use my corporate card during their next 30% off sale. My main concerns are the fabric, pocket flaps, and center vent. So if that's the route I'm going:

    1. Do you think it would look bad if I closed the vent? Should I just leave it open?
    2. Do you think it's possible to remove the pocket flaps? Would that look ridiculous?
    3. Do I go with the patent leather shoes, or calfskin captoe with a nice shine?
    4. Is it OK that it's grosgrain lapels rather than satin? I'm not sure what the difference is (other than the material, of course).

    All of my suits are fitzgerald BB suits (they are good for the price when you get them for $600/suit), so the tux, which is also fitzgerald cut, fits me with minimal alterations needed.

    Any other suggestions are welcome.

    Thanks.
     
  12. ezlau

    ezlau Senior member

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    If I understand what you are saying about the pocket flaps, I think you can always just tuck them into the pocket itself.

    My vote is for calfskin with a nice mirror shine. Not only does it show that you are a man that takes care of his shoes (rather than buying a high-shine patent shoe), a calfskin shoe can also be worn for other less formal occasion. Obviously, those are just my opinion - others might disagree.

    Below is a copy-paste of a question for Mark Cho of the Armoury about ventless jackets:

    "Anonymous asked: When I see the old Hollywood movies and their no vent jackets of that day I'm tempted to have my jackets made in the same way. What are your thoughts on the no vent back?

    Nice question.

    No vent has a long and storied history whereas vents are a relatively recent thing, previously confined to “sporty” garments but eventually becoming the standard. I once asked Antonio Liverano about this, his response was “when I started working, suits would never have vents, but nowadays, you people put them on whatever you like”.

    Vents are a matter of practicality. If you are on horseback or like to have your hands in your pockets, the vents help the back of the jacket fall a little neater, especially if you like to have your jacket buttoned.

    I like unvented jackets for two reasons. 1. When well executed, the lower half of the jacket will drape neatly and remain narrow with no opportunity to flare, thus flattering the hips. 2. It produces a sleek look which gives the jacket a nice formality. I recommend it for tuxedos and sometimes for three pieces. The downside is when you sit down, the jacket will bunch up at the back and the creases will probably remain if you are sitting for a long period of time.

    Finally, unvented sport jackets are worth a special mention, as I always think of them as an artifact of Naples, often seen on classically-minded Neapolitans like Gianluca Migliarotti of O’Mast and I Colori fame."
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Nous

    Nous Active Member

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    Thanks, ezlau. Whichever tux I go with, I may just go with unvented. I'll also upgrade my captoes for the event, since it's a good excuse to spend a little extra! As for the pockets, would that look tacky?
     
  14. ezlau

    ezlau Senior member

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    I do that on my suits. Never had a tuxedo so can't say for sure. I was always under the impression that it is a pretty common thing. Again,self-confidence always helps (in other words, F what they think).
     
  15. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Would tucking the pocket flaps in look tacky? Only if you end up with one in and one out, and don't fix it. I'd just have the flaps removed, and the pockets stitched shut so they don't gape. Lots of functional pockets inside the jacket.

    As to the vent, Black Tie Guide prescribes no vent as the most traditional, formal, and correct option, with side vents being also correct but less so, and centre vents being right out. I tend to agree, and I agree even more having just read the above post on the evolution of vents. No vent says "this garment is purely formal/social, not for working, and meant to look good above all else." I think that's a nice statement on a Tuxedo.
     
  16. zeero3

    zeero3 Senior member

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    Are you a 38R???
     
  17. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Leaving aside virtual theory about horse riding and hands in the pocket or other outdated theories, if you use your tuxedo to attend social events were you actually spend time sitting down and having dinner, then the vents are a necessary practicality as they look better and do not let the back of the jacket bulge up and feel uncomfortable. Even the Duke got all of his dinner jacket and tuxedo double vented. Finally if you have a Mediterranean man body, then a double vented is the only choice.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  18. AverageGuy

    AverageGuy Member

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    I had a custom made to measure tux and shirt made for me by the Hong Kong tailor that makes my business suits. (suits for $550 and shirts from $60 - $120, which includes shipping and clearing customs)

    I "economized" by keeping my eye out for once-used accessories on eBay in excellent condition. I could have done this for much less, but I wanted high end accessories.

    Total cost for the tux and accessories was approx. $1,478

    Tuxedo - Made to measure - $810
    Jacket: black (fine) wool with no vent (was $660, but I paid $150 extra for the best material)
    Jacket: single covered button at waist
    Jacket: single covered button on each cuff
    Jacket: black satin shawl collar
    Trousers: black fine wool with satin stripe
    Trousers: flat front, with no cuffs
    Trousers: concealed buttons for braces

    Shirt – Made to measure - $140
    White cotton (140x140) with solid yoke
    Fly front with turned-down collar
    Smooth oval bib
    French cuffs with same color (white) initials on left cuff

    Cummerbund – eBay - $39
    Versace black satin with pleats

    Tie – eBay - $25
    Black satin butterfly self-tie

    Shoes – eBay - $99
    Ferragamo black patent leather formal pump with grosgrain tab (worn once!)

    Accessories
    Cufflinks: black onyx and 14k dumbells by Tiffany’s (eBay $350)
    Braces: black with gold (brass) hardware (eBay $15)

    Picture of the tux with a different shirt:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  19. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    Ferragamo pumps? Gets my vote for best first post in SF history. Are your tailor's suits fused or canvassed? If they're canvassed, I'm sure many people (myself included) want to know quite a lot more. Who is he, and are there any threads about him? I assume there must be a hong kong tailors thread.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2013
  20. AverageGuy

    AverageGuy Member

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    The Ferragamo formal loafers.... some people call them pumps. :) I love Ferragamo loafers and have several pair.

    The Hong Kong company is Macomber, Inc (http://macomberinc.com/)

    The tailor I work with from there is the son of the tailor that my dad used. I have the same suit in 9 different fabrics and always get compliments on the fit.

    I do not know if they are canvassed, but I can pull the material apart and feel a loose layer in between there, so probably so. You have me curious now, so I will ask!

    [​IMG]
     

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