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When to resole/recraft Allen Edmonds?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bkhahn, May 5, 2013.

  1. bkhahn

    bkhahn New Member

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    I have a pair of Allen Edmonds that are starting to show some wear on both the bottom of the sole as well as beginning to crack/separate along the edge. At what point should you get a shoe resoled? Is it time for this pair to get recrafted?

    Sole wear.
    [​IMG]

    Sole wear.
    [​IMG]

    Toe is beginning to separate.
    [​IMG]

    Side has begun to separate.
    [​IMG]

    Thanks!
     


  2. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    yes, resole it.
     


  3. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Welcome to Styleforum bkhahn.
    Press your thumb firmly on the soles where the ball of your feet rests. If it feels very soft and spongy, it's time for recrafting. If they are firm, you are still good. If the corkbed is showing through a visible hole, it is time for recrafting. Also, I see the seperation occuring between sole and welt. The welt stitching should easily hold the sole to the shoes so although you may find it unsightly, and rightly so, it should not affect wearability. Were these Factory Seconds?
     


  4. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    That separation is actually pretty normal for a lot of AE shoes, including first quality. How often did you wear these and how soft does the sole feel when you press it with your fingers?
     


  5. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Really? I own over 30 pair of AE and all of them are perfectly fine.
    Welcome to Styleforum Jay.
     


  6. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    They should have already been resoled. The threads have started to get worn away, that's why you've got that separation occurring.
     


  7. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    I suppose not normal as in characteristic, but it does happen time to time. I've read on here that its simply the adhesive giving away a bit. My McAllisters show some separation (as dramatic as seen here) after about 30 wears, though those are worn about once every 3 days and get beatdown by Berkeley's terrible concrete.
     


  8. chichow

    chichow Active Member

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    If the cork bed is a bit worn , can you replace the corkbed?
     


  9. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    The AE factory probably can, but I doubt the average cobbler could. If the cork is starting to wear away because you've actually got holes in your sole, you've waited waaaay too long to get them resoled. But, resoling them now is better than throwing them away.
     


  10. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    The corkbed can be replaced, yes. If you have a generic cobbler do the resole, they will use a flat layer of new cork on the worn area, whereas, having Allen Edmonds do the work, they will place your shoes on the original lasts from which they were made, then completely replace the old soles and cork with new. AE uses a hot cork method. This cork actually allows the insole to mold to the shape of your feet as you wear them. Even their most basic of recrafting packages is well worth the money to protect your investment.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2013


  11. bkhahn

    bkhahn New Member

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    Thanks for the welcome and all the replies so far - I've been lurking for awhile and didn't realize I hadn't posted yet! These shoes have been worn once or twice a week, pretty much every week for the last two years. The footbed still feels consistently firm across the worn sections. These shoes were purchased from the Shoe Bank - but I believe they were closeouts and not seconds. I'm not overly concerned about the aesthetics of the separation (it's not noticeable unless you know to look for it) - I'm much more concerned about letting them go 'too long' and doing long term damage to the shoes. Based on the replies so far it sounds like I probably have a bit more life left in them, but I should watch them closely and be ready to send them in soon.
     


  12. div25sec9

    div25sec9 Senior member

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    I used the recrafting service and was very happy with the results. Their customer service was very helpful. I'd recommend sending the photos off to them and they'll give you their professional advice about when you should get them redone to avoid damage. They answered my questions quickly, made shipping a breeze, returned them quicker than quoted, and ensured that they were labelled correct on return so I had no problems with customs. They also determined some of the wear was premature, so they gave me a discount on the recrafting.....I definitely recommend the service
     


  13. htimsdj

    htimsdj Member

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    I wouldn't worry about the separating parts. That is simply the sole-welt joint showing. It happens on all my shoes.

    If the soles don't develop holes, they are still ok. From the toe photo, looks like you wear the toes hard. I recommend toe taps after the next resole. Will give you a lot more use out of a recraft.

    Finally, don't worry about damaging the shoes. Take care of the uppers and the cobbler or recrafter will take care of the rest.
     


  14. Orsini

    Orsini Senior member

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    Work the sole over with the ball of your thumb. If you can find any soft spot, then it is back to the factory for a re-build.
     


  15. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    :lol: At first I read your post count. Now I just read your join date of 2008. I will ammend to 'Welcome back.'
     


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