When is the Jacket Shoulder Too Wide?

[anonymouz]

I've been trying to figure out how much variance I can take in jacket shoulders. Of course, there are factors such as the amount of padding. What is everyone's thoughts on the shoulder fit of these 3 jackets? Please excuse the potato quality pics


#1 - Closest fitting to the shoulders among the 3

#2 - Slightly wider shoulder compared to #1 & unconstructed

#3 - widest in the shoulder among the 3 with a bit more padding (with messed up shirt collar...oops)

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Potato quality pics? Never mind.

I think of the 3, the best fit in both shoulders and body is #1.

No. 3 strikes me as just too big through the body, never mind the shoulders. Though it’s hard to tell as it may be a function of the high button stance not allowing for the upper quarters to drape properly.

it’s hard to tell with #2 given the lighting and the color/texture of the fabric, but just a cursory scan looks to me to not fit as well as #1.

Not sure if that answers your question.

 

[anonymouz]

Potato quality pics? Never mind.

I think of the 3, the best fit in both shoulders and body is #1.

No. 3 strikes me as just too big through the body, never mind the shoulders. Though it’s hard to tell as it may be a function of the high button stance not allowing for the upper quarters to drape properly.

it’s hard to tell with #2 given the lighting and the color/texture of the fabric, but just a cursory scan looks to me to not fit as well as #1.

Not sure if that answers your question.

Thanks for the input! I agree that #1 fits the best and #3 is a bit big. I have pretty narrow shoulders so I'm just trying to figure out how wide I can/should go in the shoulders. The body, as I understand, can be altered within reason so I'm more concerned with the shoulder fit.

 

[breakaway01]

The shoulder of a jacket can extend beyond your own shoulder. This does require some structure (not necessarily padding). Some shoulder extension can be flattering; how much is acceptable is a matter of taste as long as the end of the shoulder does not collapse.

 

[dieworkwear]

I prefer 3, both in the body and shoulders. Feels much more masculine to me. Also reminds me more of some of my favorite cuts, like Paone-era Rubi. Drape-y chest, fuller shape, extended shoulder. Helps build a V-shape in the torso.

maomao wears a similar cut

Steed cuts something similar. Notice the excess fabric along the armhole

 

[Stylewords]

I prefer 3, both in the body and shoulders. Feels much more masculine to me. Also reminds me more of some of my favorite cuts, like Paone-era Rubi. Drape-y chest, fuller shape, extended shoulder. Helps build a V-shape in the torso.



View attachment 1540667 View attachment 1540668


maomao wears a similar cut

View attachment 1540669



Steed cuts something similar. Notice the excess fabric along the armhole


View attachment 1540670

Surely if someone wears a jacket that is clearly wider than their actual shoulder, it looks less masculine. Like they're worried about trying to compensate.

 

[anonymouz]

I prefer 3, both in the body and shoulders. Feels much more masculine to me. Also reminds me more of some of my favorite cuts, like Paone-era Rubi. Drape-y chest, fuller shape, extended shoulder. Helps build a V-shape in the torso.



View attachment 1540667 View attachment 1540668


maomao wears a similar cut

View attachment 1540669



Steed cuts something similar. Notice the excess fabric along the armhole


View attachment 1540670

Actually, it was reading your piece on extended shoulders that prompted me to give #2 and #3 a shot (since I had mostly been wearing jackets like #1)! I'm not sure if there's enough structure in the shoulders for #2 to work, though.

The shoulder of a jacket can extend beyond your own shoulder. This does require some structure (not necessarily padding). Some shoulder extension can be flattering; how much is acceptable is a matter of taste as long as the end of the shoulder does not collapse.

Thanks. Does #2 seem like there's enough structure?

 

[dieworkwear]

Surely if someone wears a jacket that is clearly wider than their actual shoulder, it looks less masculine. Like they're worried about trying to compensate.

How would you know their natural shoulder without seeing a dip?

 

[Stylewords]

How would you know their natural shoulder without seeing a dip?

All the examples you've posted are obvious.

 

[dieworkwear]

All the examples you've posted are obvious.

Interesting. Because the Steed doesn't have an extended shoulder.

 

[Stylewords]

Interesting. Because the Steed doesn't have an extended shoulder.

We're talking about extended shoulders. All the examples of extended shoulders you've posted are obvious. I didn't feel that need to be spelt out. Think of it like a short guy in cuban heels.

 

[dieworkwear]

We're talking about extended shoulders. All the examples of extended shoulders you've posted are obvious. I didn't feel that need to be spelt out. Think of it like a short guy in cuban heels.

You said all the examples I posted above are obvious, which I assume you mean that all three have extended shoulders. My point was that you can't tell without a dip. This is proved by the fact you thought the Steed has an extended shoulder. It does not.

So again, how can you tell without a dip?

 

[Stylewords]

You said all the examples I posted above are obvious, which I assume you mean that all three have extended shoulders. My point was that you can't tell without a dip. This is proved by the fact you thought the Steed has an extended shoulder. It does not.

So again, how can you tell without a dip?

Had I said "all the jackets" or "all the photos", you might be correct. I quite clearly wrote "all the examples". I assumed it would be clear to anyone that this means "all the examples (of extended shoulders)". I will be more careful in making assumptions about other readers in future.

Anyway, it's all a matter of taste and if you like an extended shoulder then go for it.

 

[dieworkwear]

For the OP, I have a similar build as you and dislike 1. The silhouette looks too narrow to me.

2 might be a good compromise between 1 and 3, if 3 feels too roomy to you. I don't think structure in the shoulder is the issue. Sometimes, when you get a very soft jacket with an extended shoulder, the end dips a little. All three examples you posted have straight shoulders. But sometimes when you have that much excess fabric at the chest, you need to cut the chest piece differently so that you add shape. I don't know if the cut here is right for that chest, but I also think a fuller chest looks better than a clean chest.

The silhouette of 1 reminds me of Kushner's suits, which I also really dislike. Ignore the short length for a moment and just look at the general silhouette.

 

[breakaway01]

Surely if someone wears a jacket that is clearly wider than their actual shoulder, it looks less masculine. Like they're worried about trying to compensate.

I would not characterize this as "trying to compensate" in the sense that one should be embarrassed about having narrow shoulders. It's not like one has much choice in the matter. I would argue that dressing in a way that is flattering to one's own body involves some choices about what to highlight and what to obscure.

Taken to the extreme, would you suggest that we all wear skin-tight clothing that reveals our shapes exactly? Why do our shoes taper at the toe? What are you trying to compensate for by wearing shoes that extend beyond your toes?