When is a Suit’s Silhouette “Too Much”?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by J. Cogburn, Apr 2, 2010.

  1. George

    George Senior member

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    I have heard of Renzo PIANO but i didn't know the other ones... My architecture knowkledge is a bit let's say restricted.
    Happold and Rice weren't architects they were structural engineers, both no longer with us.
     


  2. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    RSS told me a story of people recognizing in the street his suit as a Richard Anderson's creation.
    The suit being worn was made of the Richard Anderson house tweed. Richard had just appeared in one of the more popular American business magazines wearing a suit made of the same cloth. Had it not been for the article with photo ... I doubt the suit would have been recoginzed.
     


  3. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Wrong quote ... wrong comment. Deleted.
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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  5. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    It's too much when Hans&Fritz say "Halt, verboten!".
     


  6. George

    George Senior member

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    Someone PM me when this threak becomes about Rubinacci and/or Vox, kthxbai.
    This thread is about tailoring which has shape.!!! [​IMG]
     


  7. George

    George Senior member

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    Wrong quote ... wrong comment. Deleted.
    Don't let that stop you posting it!!! [​IMG]
     


  8. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    It seems as if half of you think that no silhouette can be too strong for tasteful dress. The other half don't believe in tasteful dress (at least, as I defined it in my OP) at all. Is that fair?
     


  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    It seems as if half of you think that no silhouette can be too strong for tasteful dress. The other half don't believe in tasteful dress (at least, as I defined it in my OP) at all. Is that fair?

    No. By citing Poole as your boundary examplar for modesy of shape, you encompassed nearly everything ever posted on StyleForvm.

    You might have better luck with this topic at AAAC.


    - B
     


  10. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    Quite an feat! You've obviously dwelt here longer than I, so if you could spell out what that means exactly, that would be great. I'm pretty sure, however, that you didn't mean that in a good way - for me or for SF.

    Regardless, I'm not sure I meant to suggest that Poole was the best exemplar of modest shape. I meant to imply that middle of the road British cut suits are surely on this side of the taste line as I've defined it, so Poole must be OK. The photos I've seen, however, of Poole suits are not as extremely shaped as the more "out there" silhouettes I noted - Tom Ford's, some of Steed's, some of Chan's, etc.

    Don't go to Ask Andy anymore. Too many people getting hard-ons over whatever Joseph A. Bank sale happens to be running at the moment.
     


  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Q The photos I've seen, however, of Poole suits are not as extremely shaped as the more "out there" silhouettes I noted - Tom Ford's, some of Steed's, some of Chan's, etc.

    Are you sure that you know what a "middle of the road" SR shape or a Poole looks like?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    - B
     


  12. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    I say "middle of the road" because, as I understand it, Poole's shoulders and chest are a bit structured but not too structured. As my local cutter put it, Poole is about half-way between A&S and Huntsman on most dimensions and as much a standard for traditional British-style suit as one might want.

    Wrong Vox?
     


  13. clotheshorse69

    clotheshorse69 Senior member

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  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I say "middle of the road" because, as I understand it, Poole's shoulders and chest are a bit structured but not too structured. As my local cutter put it, Poole is about half-way between A&S and Huntsman on most dimensions and as much a standard for traditional British-style suit as one might want.

    Wrong Vox?


    No, that is correct enough.

    But, that is precisely the point. "Middle of the road" Savile Row means a jacket far more shaped, with more pronounced "silhouette" than anything posted on SF...including Rubinacci and the A&S variants.

    Please look carefully at the photographs above that Poole themselves use to explicate their house style. Look at the waist. Look at the flared skirt. Look at the square shoulders and the iron work in the chest. This is a far more shaped jacket than you will see on any Chan if only for fabric manipulation involved. Chan is all flat.

    There would be nothing anonymous or broadly unremarkable, inoffensive, with a guy in Poole doomed to Cleveland.


    - B
     


  15. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    yes those silhouettes by poole are very dramatic but only possible when on a dummy. I imagine their customers are mostly fat and old.
     


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