When Is A Regular A Long?

[Old School]

With respect to a size 40 suit, what is the average length from top of collar to the bottom of the hem of a regular length suit? How does that compare to a long? Should length be measured from the top of the collar or from the bottom of the collar. Also, in relation to one's knuckles, where should the bottom of the hem fall?

I ask this question because I see quite a few suits on eBay labeled as a long, but the inseam of the pants is often 28.5" or 29" and this seems counterintuitive. Many thanks.

 

[lee_44106]

The stated length of the jacket, in the absence of any further clarification, should be from the BOTTOM of the collar, With the collar usually 1.5".

A "regular" really varies, up to 33" from TOP of collar to bottom of hem. So I guess >33" would quality a jacket as long.

The problem you mentioned about a supposedly "long" suit having a pair of pants with short inseam, is the reason why one must know his measurements prior to buying online. Also, this could be because the original suit owner had disapproportionately short legs.

 

[Earthmover]

Another reason for short inseam pants could be that the previous owners wore high-rise trousers on their hips, which would require a far shorter inseam.


As for what makes a regular, as a 44 R/L, I've never seen anything longer than 32" from the bottom of the collar as a regular (Italian brands tend to cut longer), but most were 31". Most longs range between 32.5" to 34".

 

[jml90]

When's it's sold at International Male.

 

[Jovan]

Originally Posted by jml90

When's it's sold at International Male.

It's only root beer. I swear.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by Earthmover

Another reason for short inseam pants could be that the previous owners wore high-rise trousers on their hips, which would require a far shorter inseam.


As for what makes a regular, as a 44 R/L, I've never seen anything longer than 32" from the bottom of the collar as a regular (Italian brands tend to cut longer), but most were 31". Most longs range between 32.5" to 34".


you are right about the trousers. if the former owner wore the trouser on his waist where it belongs the inseam would be a decent length.
if the seat of a guys trouser looks like crap its usually because he is wearing it on his hips.

 

[a tailor]

its always from the seam that joins the collar to the top of the coat.
ask your tailor.

 

[Fabro]

31" from the bottom of the collar seems pretty common on 40Rs, though 30.5" sometimes appears. I've also seen coats marked 40R as long as 32", but that is getting into long territory.

Length is a matter of taste. The main rule is that the jacket should cover your butt. A lot of fashion forward jackets are becoming pretty short, though (look at the Sartorialist blog for lots of examples). There are various rules of thumb that say things like the jacket should fall between your thumb knuckle and tip of thumb, or you should be able to curl your fingers under the hem. These are pretty dependent on your arm length, though. (Consider how often most of us adjust sleeves as opposed to jacket length.) Flusser also wrote about measuring from the top of the collar to the floor, and dividing by two to get the optimum jacket hem length.