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What's your personal style?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Renwick, Dec 29, 2002.

  1. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I guess you would call it 30's elegance with an Italian flavor. Suits with an unpadded shoulder and a very light canvas - I lust after Anderson & Sheppard & Caraceni but I make do with Isaia. Double breasted 6 x 2 or single breasted 3 button, preferably with matching vest. I love ticket pockets. I like grey and brown suits best - birds-eyes, plaids, even the occasional chalk-stripe. I am partial to dark antique brown shoes. Usually Edward Green or Lobb cap-toes although I do have a couple pair of Mantellassi's I wear with sportcoats. I like light-to-medium-blue dress shirts best but I am also fond of yellow and pink. I love checked shirts and the occasional contrast collar. Wide, deep spread collars or a long point collar worn with a collar pin. And, of course, French cuffs. I wear woven ties almost exclusively. Usually polka dot, houndstooth, plaid or repp stripe. Ties have to have rich color or I won't touch them. I love green ties. And I usually give them a lift with one of my 100 year old cravatte pins. I feel naked without a pocket square and I have entirely too many socks. But probably my favorite thing of all? I rarely pay more than 20 cents on the retail dollar for anything. Ebay, outlets, consignment shops - these are wonderful places.
     
  2. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    andrew....great post. i see you are one of the True Clotheshorses. a curse (on the wallet), to be sure, but as Maus and Hoffman put it "Dressing well is the Best Revenge".

    curious, what city do you live/ work in? also, did you glean your sense of style from the books by flusser, boyer, etc?
     
  3. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Damn, are you sure you're not my doppleganger? Great post (and you're right Caraceni is wonderful, I got incredibly lucky and got one, single, sportscoat, but if I had the funds......)
     
  4. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks Russ and Thracozaag.

    I live in Atascadero CA, halfway between LA and San Francsico. Right down the hill from San Luis Obispo if you have ever heard of it. I do most of my shopping in San Francisco because you can hit 12 or more discount or consignment stores in the same day. LA is too spread out to do that.

    I certainly have been influenced by Flusser, Boyer etc. Although probably by Flusser more than Boyer. But most of all I have learned what I like as a result of selling on ebay. I've been selling high-end menswear for three years now. In that time I've been fortunate enough to get my hands on suits and accessories from nearly every skilled needle in the world. A few key pieces have eluded me (Attolini, Gianni Campagna, Caraceni, Knize and a few others) but for the most part I've seen it all.

    In that time I've kept a lot of it for myself. It's a cool job because I can buy a suit, wear it a few times, decide I don't like the cut, and then sell it for a profit.. As a result my wardrobe is more compact than you might imagine. Anything that isn't perfect gets put on the sale rack before too long. Especially when I'm broke.    

    I'm sure you guys know the feeling. You put on something that looked great on someone else and it doesn't look right on you. Or you really dislike certain things, even if they are "correct." I found Alan Flusser's latest book fascinating because it explained exactly why I like and dislike certain things. Certain colors, certain cuts, certain patterns etc. He explained in a very logical way why all the things I like look good on me. Very interesting. Have you guys read it?
     
  5. tricket

    tricket Well-Known Member

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    Hey, I did't realise that Flusser released a new book.
    Could you advise the name and the publisher of that book?

    Thanks
     
  6. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    yes, have been working on the new flusser book ("Dressing the Man: mastering the art of permanent fashion"....full details on the book at www.amazon.com, just search for books by flusser). a LOT to get thru, but am certainly enjoying it. andrew, have you been to NYC's saks fifth ave & bergdorf goodman yet? saks has a bunch of 1930s stills from apparel arts on the wall outside the elevator on mens tailored clothing floor. i got a TON of ideas from my recent trip to the big apple. by the way, does anyone get the magazine by american express, Departures? i saw about 10 online articles from the magazine dealing with fine tailored clothing, the top mens stores, etc.
     
  7. Steve B.

    Steve B. Senior member

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    Foxx:

    I'd be interested in reading the AOL article. Could you post the link?

    Thanks

    Steve
     
  8. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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  9. Joe G

    Joe G Senior member

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    Personal style...hmm. Call it psychotic classicist. I wear a lot of classical-type pieces:
    -Saville Row/Neapolitan/Viennese-cut jackets, often with ticket pockets
    -properly double-pleated and cuffed wool trousers
    -cashmere and camelhair overcoats
    -pocket squares invariably placed in the breast pockets of my jackets and overcoats
    -shirts (often bespoke) with double cuffs and spread or cutaway collars; monochromatic jumpers
    -seven fold ties
    -bal captoe oxfords in black calfskin and burgundy shell cordovan, along with plenty of monkstraps and loafers; etc.

    Hell, I even own a morning coat. Jeans I consider part of the classicist wardrobe, too. Although I do own a pair of modern distressed jeans (Energie), I wear them less often than I do my solid dark indigo ones (Sisley and Salvatore Ferragamo).

    (The pairing of the Energie jeans that looks best to me? Velvet morning coat, untucked formal shirt, either black patent Tod's driving mocs or minimalist spectator wingtips from Gucci S/S 2002.)

    BUT except for formal events I never stay in the classicist realm. I always use eyewear as a point of contrast. I have no use for conservative frames. Also, many of those conservatively-cut shirts are massively striped, with the bespoke ones often having patterns rotated at odd angles from vertical. (But pattern-matching is still a given, of course. I like to think that I've caused my favourite shirtmaker, Zum Jockey Club in Vienna, to laugh more often than I've caused them to cry.) I rarely tuck them in, even when wearing a suit. One of those cashmere jumpers (a Loro Piana) is bright orange with lime green sleeves. Also, I can be subversive in my shoe choice: I'd not think twice about pairing, say, Tod's bowling shoes with my bespoke Knize suit. (I would NEVER wear black shoes with this blue suit or any other one, though.)

    In terms of designers, I have a soft spot for Paul Smith, Etro, and Tod's on one side, Hermes, Ferragamo, and Ludwig Reiter on the other.

    What brings it all together? Obviously, I only buy pieces that fit me. After that, the big unifying factor is materials quality. I won't wear anything that doesn't feel good as well as look good. Following materials comes tailoring quality.

    Where'd it come from? My father is a pure classicist dresser. He's been in the foreign ministry most of his life and dresses the part. My grandfathers were also both Oxford-educated "colonial" gentleman with a touch of Anglophilia. So the roots were there, but I pretty much developed the "f-you" streak on my own. Books haven't really influenced me, but they have answered questions that I wouldn't bother to pester Abu about.

    Peace,

    JG
     
  10. European Interloper

    European Interloper Senior member

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    Why oh why is mens fashion considered permanent? I agree, it changes less drastically than womens fashion but still, the change is there and should be accounted for.
    On a totally seperate note, I was in Italy and found that the much revered Energie brand is worth NOTHING, considered trashy, in Italy... This surprised me, and I'm sure will surprise you.
    European Interloper
     
  11. davei

    davei Senior member

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    Toronto, Canada
    This does not surprise me at all, since I'm not particularly fond of Energie myself. So what is revered or "non-trashy" in Italy these days?
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    This doesn't at all surprise me. The GAP, for example, considered of low quality in the States, fetches a premium in the UK and parts of Europe; and as posted in another thread, normal 501s are considered the ultra ne plus of jeans nearly everywhere but the United States and Canada. The rule of thumb is that if you buy imported streetwear, the likelihood of it being ill-considered in that country is rather high.

    In the best-dressed scenario, everyone would buy whatever suits their style without regard to brand image. However, if you are concerned that your streetwear is going to look trashy in some other country, then stick to the best DOMESTIC streetwear. You can be assured that elsewhere, it will be just as or more expensive (and thus be considered "classy"). So, if you are North American: PDC, Seven, Levi's Premium or Red, Parasuco, Joe's jeans, even Earl, are probably good bets. Or stick to the marquee designers: Prada, Gucci, and Dior, are all probably going to be safe in that respect.
     
  13. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    We have a lot of new faces here on the board since this topic was last discussed (a year ago), so I figured I'd perform some FORUM NECROMANCY and hear about you guys' personal styles. And for those who've already replied to this topic before, has your style changed or been modified in any way? I like single-breasted suits. I can wear them unbuttoned if I want to. My suits feature high armholes, high notched lapels (medium width), natural-sloping but defined shoulders, and smooth waist definition (no hourglasses here.) My jackets are all cut short with double vents, and flapped besom pockets. I can dig either flat-front or single-pleated trousers, but no cuffs for either. Until recently, I wore a lot of black shoes. Ever since I got my C&J's, I'm wearing a lot of brown ones. I like striped ties. 99% of my ties have some sort of stripe pattern on them. All of my ties are woven; I don't like printed ones. I also don't like little flowers or donkeys or elephants or whathaveyou printed on ties. I dunno, I've always thought those to be a little dorky. [​IMG] I really love blue and purple. Pink comes in third. I always try and match colors to each other. I think it puts the whole ensemble together. I won't do anything like wear a navy blazer, light blue shirt, and an orange tie. My favorite current suit+shirt+tie color combination is as follows: Solid navy blue serge suit + striped lilac, light blue, and navy blue shirt + striped navy blue, blue, pink, and silver tie. That's the combo I'm wearing in my member picture in the HOF thread, by the way. Double-sided cufflinks are my best friends. I have three pairs, two sterling silver and one MOP, which is enough for me. Whenever I go casual, I go REALLY casual. I'm talking clothes that I've been wearing for 5 years: beat-up cargos and jeans, and Quiksilver shirts from high school. I sort of swing between sartorial extremes this way. eBay is also my best friend. I get everything except shirts and suits from that place. And soon, I'm hoping to get a watch.
     
  14. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Happiness is lighting a cigar on Friday nights dressed in green velvet slippers, smoking jacket, and flannel trousers

    I mix traditional styles with woven ties from Borrelli, Barbera or Kiton as I find modern interpretations of classic designs. I wear Drake's and New & Lingwood ties as well.

    Shoes from Edward Green and Cleverley. Custom oxfords for dress, stock specials for weekend wear ranging from monk straps to veldts to chukka boots.

    MTO Turnbull & Asser dress shirts, either spread or tab collar with turnback cuffs in blues and ecru. A third are contrast collar and cuffs. Perhaps fifteen pair of double sided cuff links. On weekends, ecru silk with buttondown collars.  

    Suits are Anderson & Sheppard, a mix of vested single breasted and six button double breasted.  Grays, blues and tan, with brown glen check for weekends. Some BroBroClo made to measure summer items that the English aren't comfortable making -  seersucker suit, unlined linen odd jacket, etc.  

    I buy neckties, socks and pocket squares on eBay, and am happy to save enough each year to pay for my shoes.
     
  15. SwaG

    SwaG Well-Known Member

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    Happines for me when the week ends... ...going to the country, slipping on my orvis vest and grandfather's BB hat and fly-fishing ...going to the the island, getting some sun on the beach with my j.crew trunks, and then going out at night with a pair of white linen pants to keep cool ...staying in the city, having a few drinks, going out with friends, meeting girls but anyway. . .we were talking about style. . . i guess my style differs depending on the situation, living in nyc and being 23, the options are endless leading to, as alias calls it, "sartorial extremes." If i'm meeting up with friends from prepp school...well then the khakis(chinos&#33[​IMG], polo's, etc etc etc come out with me. If i'm meeting up with my "brooklyn" friends...t-shirt, jeans, sneakers all the way If im going out to a lounge/bar ..."nice" jeans or black pants, untucked button down if i go into any more detail...my post will turn into a sociology paper. it's more complicated than i thought to fully explain my casual style, so i guess ill just get into the other one... -single-breasted suits. -double vents, and no flaps, ticket pocket -flat-front preffered, single-pleated trousers ok, cuffs on pleated. -i like both brown and black shoes equally. . .still having problems finding the "right" shoes...not to conservative, not too trendy. -i like all ties...can't get enough of them. ill find a reason to wear that elephant donkey tie. -one more for casual...jeans, button down and jacket anyway, i feel like i've gone on too long, and as this is only my second post, most of you won't care anyway. I'll try to start a fight on my next post. btw, still coming to NYC alias?
     
  16. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Probably not this year. I'm going to Hawaii in a month to visit my relatives, then this winter it's off to Japan to snowboard because the snow there kicks all kinds of butt. So if I do go to NYC, it'll probably be next year.
     
  17. Gav

    Gav Active Member

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    Modern day dandy myself...

    [​IMG]
     
  18. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    I love wearing a well-cut suit with an open shirt ...I hate ties...

    jeans with a tailored shirt and a jackey /blazer...

    In terms of colour, i do love dark suits colours such as midnight blue ,charcoal,chocolate brown...My favourite suits are single breasted and i do have a personal hatred for anything double-breasted...
    I do prefer solid patterns or a subtle pinstripes....hate chalk stripes...

    You go have classic clothes and being original with your haircut or persona..
    No need wearing flashy colours ,strange combos or shorten trousers for being interesting...

    Be elegant first ,interesting after is my motto..
     

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