What's your favorite mainstream designer?

[pstoller]

As for logos, that's what bothers me most about fashion today.

Hey, I didn't say I liked the logos, just that they're part of what currently makes for a high-profile house. Personally, I'm with you on this one, although I admit I like the Fake London "dollar" logo. I'm also with you on Loro Piana, but I think that firm has earned its rep for "quality über alles," as you say, whereas Ferragamos wares, while very fine indeed, aren't quite John Lobb (which I would say is a good shoe equivalent of Piana's cashmere). As for Yamamoto and Slimane...they fit me fine. (But then, I'm 5'9" and under 160 lb.) Incidentally, I voted for Slimane, although that's because I'm currently so enamored of my new tux. For consistency, range, and a stylish blend of maturity and inventiveness, I'd have to give the nod to Armani (though nix on A|X and Emporio; I'm thinkin' Black Label and Classico). Giorgio simply cuts better than almost anyone else in the RTW world. Other designers make clothes that look more exciting on models and mannequins"”and I love those things myself"”but GA's clothes look amazing on real people. If I want to look sharp with minimal effort, I can just grab an Armani off the rack and I'm done. Of whom else would you say that?

 

[LA Guy]

I agree with pstoller about A|X, but actually find the Emporio range more suited than either the Classico or Black label lines for my everyday use, although the materials and workmanship in the latter two lines are obviously by and large better - I guess that it's just my predisposition towards streetwear.

Unlike JoeG, I'm 5'11' and weigh in at a reasonably slim 170-175 lbs, so Prada, Dior Homme et al. fit me reasonably well, albeit in a larger size than I am used to wearing.

Agree very much on the visible labels. I'll wear labels if and only if they 1) Are discreet (nix Prada Sport or any other company with a contrasting logo band), or 2) are attractive in and of themselves, examples being the Pringle and James Perse logos. I am usually okay with some sort of logo/identifying marker on my jeans, if only because all jeans seem to have a logo of some type, somewhere. The only exceptions seem to be Tommy Bahama and Zegna jeans, and frankly, those two companies should have left the jeans business to those who really love them.

 

[Joe G]

The only exceptions seem to be Tommy Bahama and Zegna jeans, and frankly, those two companies should have left the jeans business to those who really love them.

The only logos on Helmut Lang jeans are the type on the buttons and rivets, which is small enough to be non-annoying to me. (The fact that his jeans have lower legs cut too slim for someone who does calf extensions three times a week is much more annoying.)

The jeans that I've been wearing the most lately are from Benetton's Sisley label, because they're made of really nice denim, seemingly sewn with attention to detail, are cut for someone who works out, and are totally devoid of logos. I like them better than my Energies.

Peace,

JG

 

[LA Guy]

Of course, I totally forgot about Helmut Lang, although I don't like the narrowness of his jeans either.

A question for Joe G. and other forum members presently in Europe: are bootcut jeans primarily an American trend? Helmut Lang, Miu Miu, YSL, Gucci, Armani, etc... all seem to favor a much narrower leg than I like, and I remember that last year, German stores only seemed to carry the slim, fitted Diesel styles like Kultur, and never Kratt, Ravi, etc... The only European brands that seem to have bootcut jeans, that are available in the States seems to be Energie and Replay, whereas American companies like Seven, Earl, PD&C, etc... all seem to have a preponderance of Bootcut jeans.

 

[pstoller]

American companies like Seven, Earl, PD&C, etc... all seem to have a preponderance of Bootcut jeans.

Do Seven and Earl even make men's jeans? I thought those were strictly women's lines. (Although, with the near-hipless models they use, I guess one could argue that they're unisex.)

OK, scratch that question; I just saw your reference to the new men's lines in the PDC thread. I'll have to check them out.

FYI: Even with my regular calf extensions, my Helmuts fit fine (best jeans I have, though some others come close), but I have naturally lean legs no matter what I do. Nonetheless, I prefer bootcut jeans myself.

 

[jetLab]

Seven is coming out with men's jeans and they think cords will be the next big thing. I saw no-logo Prada Sport jeans on sale the other day for around $150. They were straight-leg and seemed to have a nice fit, but looked a bit too plain. http://www.b-forza.com/1.28/4026.html A lot of Prada Sport sweaters and shirts now don't have any logos which is good. Go to eBay and you will see why Prada needs to get rid of the red flash.

 

[LA Guy]

Actually, cords have been a "hipster" staple since at least the mid-nineties, and have been shown on the runways for at least 2 winter seasons. The next big thing, huh? Sort of like military gear or western wear? Or maybe distressed jeans? Or maybe 3-piece suits and traditional menswear?

The problem with designer clothing is that it's often used in lieu of any real personal style. Notice that designers never base their collections on what celebrities are wearing this year, since that's what they designed last year, and what the typical man or woman shopping at Barneys/Macys/Target will be wearing next year. They base their collections around street musicians, Italian gentlemen lounging in the piazza, army-surplus and vintage-clothed grad students, British punk rockers and hostel-hopping backpackers, none of which generally give a damn whether cords are going to be big this year, or whether Tom Ford thinks that lux/flash is SO over.

 

[bigbadbuff]

RL Purple Label overrated? Maybe, but barely if at all. The few things I have from that line I love.

I am in a similiar dilemma as someone else stated here- I'm 5'10" 220 lbs and go to the gym as well... so the designers out there I can where is sadly very, very minimal.

The best designers IMO (from my experience) that are consistently excellent with their quality and wearability are Armani, Zegna, Lora Piana and Barbera.

 

[Joe G]

RL Purple Label overrated? Maybe, but barely if at all. The few things I have from that line I love.

I am in a similiar dilemma as someone else stated here- I'm 5'10" 220 lbs and go to the gym as well... so the designers out there I can where is sadly very, very minimal.

The best designers IMO (from my experience) that are consistently excellent with their quality and wearability are Armani, Zegna, Lora Piana and Barbera.

I feel ya. At about the same weight but with about a half-foot, I couldn't wear anything by Dior Homme or Yamamoto even if I particularly wanted to.

Peace,

JG

 

[LabelKing]

I have a question of the fits of Dior Homme, Yamamoto, YSL, and such. Are the sizes are made smaller, or what? Thank you.

 

[pstoller]

Are the sizes are made smaller, or what?

Not the sizes, per se, but the cuts. That is, those designers tend to cut closer to the body, assuming a slimmer physique. So, pant legs will be narrower, as will jacket sleeves and waists, even if the nominal pant waist and jacket chest measurements are (roughly) the same as other designers.

 

[Joe G]

I have a question of the fits of Dior Homme, Yamamoto, YSL, and such. Are the sizes are made smaller, or what? Thank you.

The YSL RG stuff I saw this season (Quartier 206 in Berlin carries most of the line) was actually quite generous in cut. Comically so, even. I find it quite humourous that whilst actual hip-hoppers are coming up with classically-inspired clothing, Tom Ford takes another spin at hip-hop fashion ca. 1995.

Peace,

JG

 

[pstoller]

The YSL RG stuff I saw this season (Quartier 206 in Berlin carries most of the line) was actually quite generous in cut. Comically so, even. I find it quite humourous that whilst actual hip-hoppers are coming up with classically-inspired clothing, Tom Ford takes another spin at hip-hop fashion ca. 1995.

Different stuff in Europe, maybe? None of the YSL RG I've seen in LA recently (at Neiman Marcus, Fred Segal, YSL boutiques, etc.) could be remotely described as "hip-hop fashion c. 1995." I didn't try it on to check the fit, but it certainly didn't look especially generously cut on hangers or mannequins.

 

[davei]

Quote:

The YSL RG stuff I saw this season (Quartier 206 in Berlin carries most of the line) was actually quite generous in cut. Comically so, even. I find it quite humourous that whilst actual hip-hoppers are coming up with classically-inspired clothing, Tom Ford takes another spin at hip-hop fashion ca. 1995.
Different stuff in Europe, maybe? None of the YSL RG I've seen in LA recently (at Neiman Marcus, Fred Segal, YSL boutiques, etc.) could be remotely described as "hip-hop fashion c. 1995." I didn't try it on to check the fit, but it certainly didn't look especially generously cut on hangers or mannequins.
Probably buyer editing. All the RG stuff I've seen in Toronto is slim cut as well. It's in keeping with the general perception of European clothing.

 

[Joe G]

Probably buyer editing.  All the RG stuff I've seen in Toronto is slim cut as well.  It's in keeping with the general perception of European clothing.

The cuts are still slim, but the sizes are out-of-whack. For example, I saw an interesting coat and tried it on. It fit pretty well. When I looked at the label, what made be laugh was not the price, but the size. It was a size 50. I normally take 56 in coats to be worn with jackets, and 54 otherwise. It was about this time that I was informed I should buy my normal size and deal with errant billows of cloth all about. The same with the trousers: it seems Tom Ford wants to make people who sell YSL into the old "Gap girls" from SNL. No, they're perfect, you just need to cinch 'em. No thanks.

Peace,

JG