Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dddrees, Sep 4, 2012.
That's neat, do you still wear them as well?
Yes, but not on a regular basis. I have a few other burgundy wingtips in the collection now. But the McAllisters still make it out for special occassions. They have been recrafted once - here they are (photo taken this summer).
Wow, they sure look good. To think all this time and they've only have been recrafted once. Of course I'm sure in part that has to do with how often they've actualy been worn and how well you take care of them.
My favourite pair of shoes are Saint Crispin's.
I bought them RTW but when purchasing MTO you can specify parts of the last which you would like modified and SC will accommodate your requests. A very big plus in my book.
They are finished to a superb standard and feel lighter and more comfortable than any other shoe I own.
Alfred Sargent - great Chelsea boots, the black calf leather almost glows. Perceivable as quality leather even from a distance. The leather has stretched to perfectly accommodate my feet (I sized my Chelseas down 1/2 a size as I'd do with loafers of any brand).
Crockett and Jones - Lindrick Cordovan boots, very heavy duty , excellent quality cordovan leather, great with jeans/ country wear.
Cleverley (semi bespoke) - made at Crockett's but to a much higher standard than handgrade, very fine calfskin and elegant lasts.
Edward green - beautiful crust leather which holds up well in the British rain, as do the soles. Reliably sized, the majority of my shoe collection.
JLP - wonderful misty calf leather, monk strap broke but was fixed quickly, leather soles seem very thin and wear more easily than the majority of my shoes. JL7000 last looks phenomenal.
Santoni Goodyear - remarkable last shape and sole finishing. The way the sole comes in at the waist is reminiscent of British bespoke shoes. The feel on my foot is almost as good as Saint C.
Church's - unremarkable sole finishing but very finely stitched uppers and excellent calf leather (avoid the shiny corrected grain offerings). Bought 2 pairs of custom grade at c. $190 a pair, fantastic value for the price.
Vass - excellent build quality, on a par with S.C. A more rugged look and feel though, perfect for budapesters.
Meermin - great price/quality ratio, I have only bought their suede shoes as the cordovan finishing was not to my liking and the suede quality seemed very high. Durability on the soles is a little questionable and the sizing can be strange. Once you have your size dialled in, they are great shoes to fill gaps in your collection with.The combination of suede and 'dainite' soles is great for rain and avoids the quality pitfalls of the brand.
Trickers - I only own a pair of opera pumps by Trickers, very different to their usual country wear. A very light a delicate shoe finished to a high standard. The firm's ability to produce such a different shoe is a testament to their quality, even if the majority of their designs are not to my liking.
I have also owned Jeffrey West, Loake and Barker shoes all of which are cheaper than most and offer a decent entry point into GW shoes. Barker are great if you have wide feet. Loake are very cheap. JW have some wild designs in corrected grain leather. If you're in your 20s and plan on drinking heavily in your shoes, I guess you could do worse. I once owned a pair of G&G but the TG73 last was just too narrow for my feet. The quality seemed a little higher than EG but not by a long way. Lovely shoes, was a shame to have to send them to B&S.
This is not entirely true.....I can't speak for 2012 Cole Haan goodyear welted shoes, but i have seen (a few years back) a pair of English made goodyear welted Cole Haans, that were among the nicest shoes that I have seen, and not just aesthetically, but leather quality, pattern to last ratio, finishing etc....If were to guess, they were probably made by Tricker's, who can make a very nice dress shoe
Now, this might not be the case anymore, I am not sure, but I just wanted to dispel the idea that Cole Haan has never made a nice shoe.........and believe me, I am very hard critic.....
To participate in the actual post, I would have to say that Gaziano & Girling is my probably my personal favorite brand.....
styling wise i would go with Tom Ford. Comfort probably John Lobb prestige. But weirdly and i know I'm going to get flamed for this even though they are horrendously overpriced i do think Kiton shoes are some of the best RTW out there, I've managed to get a few pairs at decent prices and they beat out pretty much everything else i own. But obviously not worth double the price of Lobbs lol
You have to distinguish between the standard Loake ranges and Loake 1880 and between the standard Barker ranges and Barker Black. I'd say that neither Loake 1880 and Barker Black come across as 'very cheap' and are certainly better than AE.
why, if the quality is there?
RM Williams and Paraboot are pretty much my only reference for high-end shoes. Heschung used to be there too, but I don't care for their new styles.
I see Sebago as a sleeper brand for dress casual shoes.
On the low end, I was surprised by the quality of the mass customized Converse shoes. Worlds above what you buy in the stores.
1880 is not certainly better than AE, if better at all.
cuz they are like 2700-3500 USD. Like i said i think they are great shoes but not like 2 times better than john lobbs. Like for me the scaling between price and quality of john lobbs to lets say allen edmonds, i can justify the price increase, but for john lobb to kiton i really can't. But if you can find them for around 800-1k which sometimes you can on here and on ebay then i think its worth it
this was my point as you mentioned, you got them on discount and the quality is there. got it?
Agreed. 1880 are still very basic shoes but they are made in England (for the most part).
Standard Loakes tend to be made in India. Neither range has anything which stands up to a Park Avenue IMO.
Barker Black is an entirely different brand to Barker, it isn't available in any Barker stores in the UK.
As far as I know, international Barker Black stores don't carry regular Barker shoes either.
In any case, my understanding is that BB are considerably higher in quality than Barker, if a little on the garish side. I've never personally handled a pair though.
I'm afraid, I'll never get behind this thinking.
i dont think i would say i have a favorite. i have found shoes from various different makers, in various price points, that i really like, and fit me well. on top of that, there are many others that i would like to try out some time.
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