What's wrong with single-pleated trousers?

[radicaldog]

Classical tailoring seems to envisage either double pleats (forward or reversed), or no pleats. Why? I always thought that double pleats spoil the cleanliness of the look and create unnecessary bulk, especially if the trousers don't sit at the natural waist but a little lower. Yet a single pleat is quite appealing as it prevents the trouser crease from springing out of nowhere. So my bespoke trousers are all either flat front or with single (forward) pleats. Where and why do I go wrong?

 

[ArliHawk`]

Don't know about trousers, but I love single pleated suit pants.

 

[Zenny]

Single pleats are my favourite. Best of both worlds.

 

[JFKJean]

I'm mainly a flat front guy but I have absolutely no problem with wearing single pleated trousers

 

[kmdsimpson]

My uneducated guess is that double pleats have become common to better accommodate the physiques of the average American male; i.e.: roomier.

I think reverse pleats can look snazzy, but I agree that single pleats or flat fronts are best.

 

[Mark Anthony]

Add me to the single pleat being my favourite group. Though I wear many flat fronts as well, and a couple of double. In fact I have noticed more single pleat pants on suits in the past couple of years.

 

[radicaldog]

I know that lots of people (myself included) wear single pleats a lot of the time. But my question was about the reasons that sartorial purists and most top tailors have for preferring double pleats. Any insights into this matter would be greatly appreciated.

For example, Thomas Mahon (admittedly alongside a lot of simplified or strongly opinionated advice) says: "Plain fronts are fine but if you want pleats, try to make sure they have four, and not two" (http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000101.html).

Or just look at the pictures of the cognoscenti, from Alden to Will, Manton, etc. Why this dichotomy of flat fronts or double pleats?

 

[Sterling Gillette]

I think the main reason for most people to prefer double over single pleats is that it is said that the second pleat helps keep the first pleat closed and thus create a cleaner line. From my experience, this need not be true as this is all up to the general cut of the pant leg. I personally only wear single pleats.

 

[radicaldog]

^ I agree. If the first pleat opens it means the leg is too narrow, or the trousers pull around the seat, or the waist isn't set properly. So that can't be the reason. Unless the reason is to have fairly slim trousers with pleats that don't open, but at that point why not go flat-front? Am I oversimplifying?

 

[a tailor]

yes the trouser front needs to be loose for the pleats to lay flat.
a good custom trouser maker will make the front just a "bit" wider.
then the extra cloth at top is worked in to the waist band as
fullness just as the cap of the sleeve is done.

 

[Sterling Gillette]

Originally Posted by radicaldog

^ I agree. If the first pleat opens it means the leg is too narrow, or the trousers pull around the seat, or the waist isn't set properly. So that can't be the reason. Unless the reason is to have fairly slim trousers with pleats that don't open, but at that point why not go flat-front? Am I oversimplifying?
I can't say why but somehow, flat fronts are less comfortable for me, even if cut by the same tailor.

 

[Vintage Gent]

For me, it's something of a "neither fish nor fowl" situation. A single pleat lacks the clean lines of the flat front; nor does it have the elegance and function I associate with double pleats. It's a less-than-satisfying compromise between the two.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by Vintage Gent

For me, it's something of a "neither fish nor fowl" situation. A single pleat lacks the clean lines of the flat front; nor does it have the elegance and function I associate with double pleats. It's a less-than-satisfying compromise between the two.

One man's modus ponens is another man's modus tollens. For me flat fronts have a crease that springs out of nowhere, and double pleats have a pleat that clutters the front without serving a clear purpose.

 

[bowtielover]

I don't normally go for a sngle pleat but that's just me I didn't think there was a problem with it other than ones own personal preference.

 

[radicaldog]

So there is no strong consensus here, but among the cognoscenti there seems to be a consensus that it's either double pleats or no pleats. Are we missing something?